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Hi,

As I mentioned in other threads I'm at the planning stage of my +/-40m long OO "Saint Georges line".

A few years ago I made some buildings.

But unfortunately I didn't had an OO garden rail in mind at the time, so these buildings are actually HO.

Today I compare them with a few OO locomotives and I got the feeling that my efforts weren't for nothing.

I now got the idea, that if I would keep them separated from OO buildings, that they still can be used.

What is your opinion?

-The signal box, don't mind the lettering it was suppose to be a building for a German railway.

But that can be very easy changed.

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-The coal supplier

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-The goods station

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2016-04-14%2017.57.24_zpso1i7kahd.jpg

Cheers,

Danny

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It looks like a Collett goods has just gone on tour in Bavaria!! :D

You'd have to do some serious conversion work to make any of the buildings show look British, our signal boxes had glass windows on three sides on the top floor with a lot less brick work , and a lot less windows downstairs for example Google " airfix signal box"

I've never seen a half timbered railway goods shed but that doesn't mean there wasn't one, there was a ticket office in the trunk of a tree at one time. :)

Anyway remember rule 1.

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My station building is a Faller German one. First off it looks very European but once you add British rolling stock it looks more Victorian than German. It fits in with the OO canopys but has no other buildings close to it to gauge scale differance.

Simple rule is that its your railway so you can do what you want.

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These look great. I didn't realize they were continental models at all. Like you said, just add some British OO. :)

If these are for a garden railway, I think the general concept of garden layouts is rather forgiving. We have a lot of old match box and hot wheels cars on the garden railways.

If you decide to get really OCD over it, the only thing I might do is raise the entire platform a tiny bit. You Brits have floor level platforms whereas europe and the use has stairways in the coach doors.

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Danny,

I think those buildings look absolutely terrific, but the main advantage...They look as though they'll stand the test of being outside.

As mentioned earlier, it's your railway, do as you want...a lot of us do!!!

Also, they are a bit different than the usual Airfix signal boxes etc that most of us still retain.

Look forward to seeing them amongst some garden foliage.

Rossi

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Hi,

Thank you for your reactions.

These buildings where indeed tended for a Bavarian line. :lol:

I know that I would look stupid to put them next to British station buildings.

And that is not my intention, my worry is, or was the mix of OO HO.

And I think in the open space of a garden the differences will fade away.

I've put an big order out for British building that will form an authentic British station feel to it.

I do hope they arrive next week, you'll see more of that in the future.

But My design and running stock will be anyway a European mix even a mix in gauges.

It will all become clear when the actual build starts, but one must have a vision first to get started. ;)

Picture an 3.5 gauge 40m long L shaped line wit a loop on each end. (to run my hornby live steam rocket)

Than on each side of that 3.5 gauge track a HO/OO line, forming actually a double line, if you think away that 3.5 gauge line.

Also forming an integrated loop on each side that will go in a tunnel to cross the 3.5 line.

At each side there will be a 4 track station with coal yard.

And here comes in my idea to make on one side a typical British station.

And on the other side a more european on.

Like I already mentioned at my introduction here on the forum, I've got quite a huge collection mix of european stock, that is mostly hidden away in boxes, and I want to see them running.

It will look a bid strange to see a Mallard fly trough a Bavarian like station and a Bavarian S3/6 storm trough a British station.

But see it as an early version of the Euro tunnel effect :lol:

Button line is, if it's all dressed in nice, it will suit my dream of finely running my collection of rolling stock and give you pleasure to see it.

One can also call it a schizophrenic line :lol::lol::lol:

Cheers,

Danny

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi,

Here is a schematic sketch of how the "St-Gorges line" will divided like.

model%20track_zpswkbiheeh.jpg

The middle part will be the station, on the line there will be waiting parts where trains can cross and pass a slower train.

At the end there is the choice of taken a turn and go in rounds or a loop, this will point the train into the other direction.

So I will be able to run trains in all direction using the layout to it's maximum.

Of corse to make it a bid more exiting, this layout will be 40m long mainly L shaped, with twisting tracks through the garden.

Cheers,

Danny

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  • 1 month later...

Hi there,

Quite a while since I posted something, I've been very busy behind the scene as they say.

I've been experimenting with DCC as it is all new to me, and need to be figured out before I go any further.

Perhaps a dull subject as we all want to see trains running, and tracks to be build, but every good house needs a good foundation.

I got in the mean while, a Hornby E-link, that I can control with Railmaster-Pro over my Pc laptop.

It took me a while to get acquainted with the basics and it looks very promising.

Some of you will probably say that there are better systems on the market, but looking at price quality I think it's not to bad.

I still am struggling with the block system, that I want to interduce.

I'm pretty fed up with the poor information the retailers are giving.

It always turns out that they want to appraise only their systems in a complete pack.

DCC should be a standard norm where you cane combine different brands, but to often it's a far cry from.

In my opinion Hornby should pick up the pace a bid quicker in DCC extensions.

I've also been experimenting with automatic uncouplers.

Being familiar with Märklin, they have successful uncouplers for decades.

Of course, a Märklin coupling is very different from a Hornby one.

But with a little DIY, I figured out that a Märlin K-rail decoupler can rebuild to uncouple Hornby type couplings.

I now just need to get a few electronic components to run them DCC, but for those who are interested, they can also be used analoge.

I will try to make a small video of the rebuild Märklin K-rail uncoupler.

In the mean while al my rolling stock is DCC fitted, and I bought some new stuff as well, all steam, like the "cock O the North".

Lovely engine and a very nice runner.

I hope to publish some photos and video in the near future, to make it here a little bid more attractive. :lol:

Cheers,

Danny

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I don't remember seeing your track plan before Danny - it looks very grand and exciting. 40 metres is about the same length as my layout is in circumference so you will have double the amount of running capability as I have - that's amazing! And of course, by the look of it you're going to have a lot more track.

I think it's a good idea to take your time and get acquainted with your chosen control system. From what I've seen of the e-Link, it's got great potential and it's also very reasonably priced. The block system sounds interesting. I sometimes wish I'd thought about such things a bit more even though I only have primarily a single running line. Even that needs a lot of thought before you start a train moving - it's all too easy to forget to set a point correctly as I've discovered on numerous occasions now. I also never thought I would need any form of track occupation indications or point indicators but it is becoming all the more clear just how useful they would be.

Do it right but don't leave it too long before you get started - and don't forget to keep us all informed of events.

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Yes it will in deed take a lot of track, I even changed the design to a double track loop on each side, to even get a better traffic flow.

model%20track_zps49um9m9l.jpg

The hole idea is that the layout can be run as real traffic, where freight trains go on a side track to let faster passenger trains pass.

This system is used in double lines, and even in single lines, perhaps an idea for your line Mick.

It allows you to cross trains from opposite directions or to overhall slower trains, it makes the game more fun.

A more simplified blok system can also be worked out in a classic DC layout, with detection and relais switches, you only need a lot more wire and a complicated relais with bord compared with DCC.

I fully understand what you say Mick, there are always things you did not stand still with, or realize later on that you could have done it better.

Even in the design face, when you start to buy your material, a specially when you not quite familiar like I'm with DCC.

That you think by your self why I didn't go that way.

After I bought the Hornby DCC system, I found out that Lenz is more advanced and perhaps was a better choice in the long run.

But on the other hand, where to draw the line, and of course budget wise it also makes a difference.

I've now come to the point where I still have to work out a reasonable blok system maybe not as beautiful as Lenz offers with there ABC system, where trains move gently to a halt in front of a closed signal.

It will be more driving and emergency break :lol:

But at least sections must be secured, and collisions avoided.

And than I hoppe finely to start the build itself.

Cheers,

Danny

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  • 3 weeks later...

A small update in my garden railway preparation.

As I mentioned before, I want to equip my track outside the station area with automated blok systems.

I just ordered a module from BLOCKsignalling that works on infra red detection build into the track.

I still have to test it out, but it seems the best solution to my needs.

It works independent from the DCC system, it only requires power from the DCC bus line.

The module can be divided into two operating sections.

-The most important is that a train stops before entering a occupied section.

-The second one is the controle of signals.

Now here I have to experiment a little with.

The module is made to operate Ekon & Berko modern light Signals.

But I want to operate semaphore signals.

What I hope is to use the electric pulse that operate the Ekon & Berko Signals to be used to operate semaphore signals.

blok%20system%20_zpsxp2vlv0r.jpg

These modules are not cheap £25 each but on the other hand cheaper than Lenz, and if it works perfect, I think it's worth it.

And there is no need to instal the signals them self strait away, it will operate without them.

The signals can be installed in a later stage.

Perhaps some good news for the people who operate in DC, BLOCKsignalling has also a DC version of this module.

Cheers,

Danny

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  • 1 month later...

Finely I found it back again! 8-)

Preparing for my future layout I was searching for a product that was called smart wire.

It basically comes down to a wire as thick as a hair, that when put under an electric voltage starts to shrink.

How much it shrinks depends on the length of the wire.

I first saw it at a model fair here in Belgium around 2000.

I always had it in mind, when I would build a layout, I would use it.

I had to go though some old magazines, but due to some good order, I soon found an artikel on it back :D

It's not a product that you will find in an average model store, that's why I had to look it up.

I found the practice of it phenomenal, you could use it to move all kind of things like semaphore signals, points,rail crossing, even apply it to coaches, so the doors automatically open at a halt.

The nice thing is that it gives you a realistic motion, not as an electro magnetic motor, where the movement is so fast, that it looks unrealistic.

I know that there are slow moving servos on the marked, but they come not cheap, and perhaps more importend for us, are not moisture friendly.

The smart wire in comparison is cheap and moisture friendly and can be DC or DCC applied.

I recently ordered some ratio semaphore signal kits, as soon as I receive some of that wire, I'll make a few samples and keep you posted

For those who want to know more about it, look at following link:

http://users.skynet.be/pro-rail/ukcafam0.htm

Cheers,

Danny

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Hi Danny that track plan is awesome, you have a good staging yard right in the middle of the track plan, what my layout is lacking, so once my trains re up and running that will have to be the next planning stage of the layout Cost comes into it as well, to save on points will have a draw set up.

Have you seen what THomas1 is planning for his layout it is huge and I thought mine was big, his is much bigger double deck station complex.

I thought that you didn't really need a block system for DCC, I am wiring my layout for both DC and DCC later, just a matter od a switch over to DCC.

As Mick said be looking forward to seeing pics of your layout under construction what about moving over to were we all are once you start construction in the garden railway thread.

Tony from down under.

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Nuvolari said:

Finely I found it back again! 8-)

Preparing for my future layout I was searching for a product that was called smart wire.

It basically comes down to a wire as thick as a hair, that when put under an electric voltage starts to shrink.

How much it shrinks depends on the length of the wire.

I first saw it at a model fair here in Belgium around 2000.

I always had it in mind, when I would build a layout, I would use it.

I had to go though some old magazines, but due to some good order, I soon found an artikel on it back :D

It's not a product that you will find in an average model store, that's why I had to look it up.

I found the practice of it phenomenal, you could use it to move all kind of things like semaphore signals, points,rail crossing, even apply it to coaches, so the doors automatically open at a halt.

The nice thing is that it gives you a realistic motion, not as an electro magnetic motor, where the movement is so fast, that it looks unrealistic.

I know that there are slow moving servos on the marked, but they come not cheap, and perhaps more importend for us, are not moisture friendly.

The smart wire in comparison is cheap and moisture friendly and can be DC or DCC applied.

I recently ordered some ratio semaphore signal kits, as soon as I receive some of that wire, I'll make a few samples and keep you posted

For those who want to know more about it, look at following link:

http://users.skynet.be/pro-rail/ukcafam0.htm

Cheers,

Danny

Hi Danny.

It's nitinol wire I presume?

I thougt about that but in the end I think the possible temperatures in the garden differs to much because the memory effect is controlled by heating resp. cooling the wire.

Greetings

Thomas

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I know that the wire can be infected by direct exposure, but hidden away I do think It will work.

It is not moisture sensitive, that's for sure, and a great plus.

Anyway like I mentioned all is in experimental stage, and has to be tested.

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Nuvolari said:

I know that the wire can be infected by direct exposure, but hidden away I do think It will work.

It is not moisture sensitive, that's for sure, and a great plus.

Anyway like I mentioned all is in experimental stage, and has to be tested.

Tell us about the test, also how do you want to use it with DCC.

Maybe I will have a second view on it if your tests are encouraging to do so.

Cordialement

Thomas

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