willo Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Hi all,can i ask if you have two tracks side by side what distance should they be apart,from looking at pictures about a tracks width and wider on bends,anybody no if thiers a formular Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 I use the Peco "6 foot" track spacer. It's a piece of red plastic that cost 5p which you place between the sleeper ends to get the right distance between tracks. I also use a length of straight alumininuim pushed up against the sleepers to keep me straight. Curves are a totally different matter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 willo said: Hi all,can i ask if you have two tracks side by side what distance should they be apart,from looking at pictures about a tracks width and wider on bends,anybody no if thiers a formular If you intend to start out using a proprietary track system such as that made by Hornby or the 'introductory' Peco Setrack system, then they include curved track sections in 4 different radius' which, when constructed, will automatically give you the correct track spacing. It's always advisable to go for the largest radius curves you can accommodate in the space you have available so for a 2 track layout you would be best with 3rd & 4th radius if you have the room for them. There's no hard and fast rules regarding track spacing when using other track systems such as the more popular Peco Streamline range but I will point out that if you intend to have a crossover linking the 2 tracks (i.e. 2 points placed back to back so that a train can travel from one track to the other) then the points themselves will dictate the distance between your two tracks. As recommended by Chris, the Peco 6' way gauge pictured below (Peco SL-36) is a double sided gauge that can be used to successfully determine correct track spacings with both the Peco Setrack and Peco Streamline systems simply by turning it over. The pic shows the top spacings for the Peco Setrack system and the bottom spacing for Peco Streamline. The tabs simply fit between your rails and give the correct distance. I have a one-metre metal ruler which I use to maintain track centres on the straights and then even on my large radius curves I increase that slightly to ensure that opposing trains do not come into contact with each other as they go round. I'll shut up now before it gets any more confusing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ba14eagle Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 Just to go slightly off the thread here, If using flexible track, either on straights or around curves, I am a big fan of using "tracksetta" gauges. These metal plates sit between the rails of your track whilst you pin it in place. They come in different radius curves and even in straight form. They allow you to make smooth, sweeping curves and very straight, straight track. Believe me, this really does make a difference to the look of your track laying. I have used them, with equal success, for both N and OO gauge and will be using them again this spring, when I begin laying track for the HFR version 3. I also use the Peco gauge as described above for track spacing, although care does need to be taken when it comes to corners, especially if using modern rolling stock like Cargowaggons or Mk3 coaches, which are especially long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 HamptonFieldRailway said: Just to go slightly off the thread here, If using flexible track, either on straights or around curves, I am a big fan of using "tracksetta" gauges. These metal plates sit between the rails of your track whilst you pin it in place. They come in different radius curves and even in straight form. They allow you to make smooth, sweeping curves and very straight, straight track. A very relevant point as I have some Tracksetta gauges on order and intend to write a short review of them in use. I'm hoping they will make laying out the sharper curves in the shed more successful and eradicate some/all of the derailments I have experienced in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willo Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 thanks all, on a similer note tri-ang track, does this marry up to say(peco/hornby) 00 gauge as i have seen quite a lot for sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 willo said: thanks all, on a similer note tri-ang track, does this marry up to say(peco/hornby) 00 gauge as i have seen quite a lot for sale You should find it will connect to modern Peco/Hornby track but to be honest it isn't really worth it. It will doubtless be made of plain steel and be susceptible to rusting and if you are looking to purchase track then just that little bit extra will get you something so much better. Compared to the cost of a locomotive, modern track from the likes of Peco or Hornby is relatively inexpensive and being manufactured with nickel silver rails it should stand the test of time well. I wouldn't recommend economising on track as it's one of the most important aspects for trouble free running but that's just my personal opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fungus Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) For straight track and curves of radius greater than 5ft, I use 30mm gauge to gauge (i.e. the distance between the inner rails plus twice the thickness of a rail head). This is based on an old B.R. guidance document, corrected for 00's narrower-than-scale gauge, and rounded up a couple of mm. It seems to be ok in practice so far. I don't have any main line curves tighter than 5ft radius. Edited November 2, 2011 by Guest Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traingeekboy Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 The Rule of Thumb: If I have two trains running parallel and I need to re-rail some cars, the space between the cars better be wide enough for my fingers to fit between the cars. This distance may be slightly larger than on the real thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted July 22, 2012 Share Posted July 22, 2012 Given that 00 is not the correct gauge for models in 4mm to the foot scale (which have a ratio of 1:76 or thereabouts), the question of track spacing seems likely to affect whether or not double track will look authentic. The gap is known in British railway parlance as "the six foot" (as opposed to the track itself, which is "the four foot"). So on a true scale 4mm layout such as P4, the gap between straight tracks should be around 24mm. A purist might argue that in 00 gauge, achieving an authentic appearance involves choosing between alternatives, effectively whether you want two passing trains to look realistically spaced, or two unoccupied tracks. For an authentic appearance on unoccupied track - surely the majority - then simple arithmetic suggests a mere 21mm, which is definitely too close for operational comfort, even on straight track. 25mm would be more practical. For two passing trains to be realistically spaced, even the scale 24mm is too narrow, because the over-narrow 00 gauge track gives greater overhangs on the rolling stock profile. So the earlier suggestion of 30mm looks sensible for passing trains. On balance, something between 25 and 30mm seems ideal. That should give an appearance close to the following photo, taken near Dorking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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