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FAULCONWOOD AND SPRINGBRIDGE RAILWAY.


cleanerg6e
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For this section of boards the width will be 440mm and the cross supports are 550mm to give me some room to play with. Having cut 3 pieces of 2.4m timber into 16 550mm lengths I'll show you how I attach them to the 4x4 upright posts.

With a large 'quick grip' clamp, 2m spirit level and a small spirit level I get the levels right on a dry run.

railway cross supports 004.JPG

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Next I draw a pencil line where the cross piece is actually attached to the post and use Selleys liquid nails adhesive which is super strong. I've included a photo of the cartridge adhesive I use in case anyone from this side of the world views these photos. A word of warning: with the Selleys range of adhesives ONLY use the Liquid Nails for this sort of construction as other glues in their range can be used for timber applications but aren't as strong as the Super Strength Liquid Nails adhesive and super strength is what I'm after. Its also water resistant, but will NOT work if immersed in water.

railway cross supports 012.JPG

railway cross supports 011.JPG

 

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Having applied adhesive to the area within the pencil line and using a 'quick grip' clamp I secure the piece of wood to the post. I usually do eight uprights in a row and give the adhesive 24 hours to cure and harden. The clamps are removed after six to seven hours.

railway cross supports 002.JPG

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After 24 hours it's time to attach the other cross member. Using a shorter spirit level I make sure that the other cross member is the same height and also level to the other piece of wood. Photo 009 the wood was adjusted before final clamping to leave to cure.

railway cross supports 009.JPG

railway cross supports 007.JPG

railway cross supports 010.JPG

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I also have a very old wooden spirit level that a builder found in the wall of my bathroom when he was redoing it. How long it had been there is any ones guess. But the main thing is that it still gives after all these years a true level indication.

railway cross supports 013.JPG

railway cross supports 014.JPG

 

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After all the glue has dried I then screw in 4 treated pine screws, (two per cross member). The screws are prepainted so they won't rust and contaminate the inside of the wood.

The first photo shows the screws on top of a white cover and the second photo shows two screwed into a cross member.

post screws 002.JPG

post screws 001.JPG

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Having completed the cross pieces on 8 posts it's now time to move onto actual board construction. First thing to do is to move my 'pride and joy' out of the garage.

My 'pride and joy' is so large it almost fills the garage. You ain't got nothing like this in the UK.

My dad said 'god that's a brutish looking car!'

baseboards ,car 004.JPG

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This time I've used structural 15mm ply as it's a 3 month wait at the moment for hardwood exterior ply with nearly all of it going to Queensland to rebuild damaged homes. Here's a photo of the ply in it's cut state. It's cut for me by 'Mister Plywood' where I bought it in Penrith. It comes uncut in 8x2m sheets and is too large to transport home in the car.

baseboards ,car 007.JPG

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A photo of a couple of the tools I use. The circular saw has the largest blade I could get (270mm) and will cut through a piece of 4x4 in one go. The Jigsaw used to belong to my dad but he and mum are in a retirement home and have no need for it.

baseboards ,car 001.JPG

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Now I cut pieces of 4x2 to make the bracing pieces for the ends and the middle. You'll note that the end pieces are on the sides (so to speak) to make it easier to run the bus wires from one board to the next. These two photos show the underside of the board complete with the bracing timber glued and screwed into place.

baseboards ,car 017.JPG

baseboards ,car 016.JPG

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