Hinged flap over walkway - help!

[aitchtee51]

Hello everyone,

I'm new to this Forum but currently planning a 00-gauge garden railway. I've gleaned a lot of information and ideas already from this excellent site, so a big THANK YOU to all who have contributed and given me inspiration and help.

I'm puzzling how to construct a hinged or removal flap at about waist height which I will have to construct in order to carry twin-track across a pathway which has to be kept clear for access into the house.

Any ideas on how to create such a device which will ensure smooth running when in the closed position would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys.

Hywel

[traingeekboy]

I wouldn't worry about it till you get to it. Then I would make it. If it didn't work, I'd take it apart and make another. Eventually, you'll figure it out.

Some pointers:

-Ideally what you would want on the open end is some kind of latch like those little metal door latches that slide and lock. These will help keep things aligned.

-Make sure the center of the axis on your hinged side is higher than rail height or the rails will pinch when you lift it. I just left bigger gaps and my trains had not trouble hitting those gaps, but ideally you should raise the axis higher.

-Make sure to solder jumpers on the hinged side for continuous electrical contact.

-waterproof anything made from lumber, especially plywood, or your bridge will warp.

Here is a link to mine when it was first built. I wasn't worried about having a long lasting layout, I just wanted to get running. It eventually warped. But I've had to remove it anyway because of some house related issues and the layout now sits unused till further notice.

http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=241

[roddy]

Easier to make than describe, but here goes. As mentioned above, you need the pivot point above the rail height, plus any other fixtures that you may have. At the hinging end of the fixed track, and the lifting part, make two matching pieces of ply. Attach these to the two track parts with hinges so that they hang below the boards. Join the two ply pieces together with a trestle hinge. Repeat on the other side of the boards. To open the "Bridge", raise the flaps to an upright position, and open using the trestle hinges as the pivot. During opening, and when open they will not move from the boards. As also stated, a catch is needed at the other end. I may need to draw and scan this for better understanding.

[IanR]

Here's a few pictures of the hinged section on the K&WR

There are three removable sections across the path which are supported on telescopic washing line props. These sections are put away after operating sessions.

The hinged section in the middle is made using aluminium angle

 

[roddy]

Now that IS a neat answer.

[aitchtee51]

Thanks to all ( particularly IanR )who have helped me with my anticipated problem of bridging a gap with a hinged flap over

a garden walkway. Ian R's photographs were particularly helpful.

As you all seem to like photos (who doesn't!), I'll post some soon as I can as I've yet to start my garden railway project.

Thanks again, guys.

Hywel,

Swansea

[grockle]

Ian R

That is axactly what I am looking for to isolate the track when my bridge is up. Can you please supply details of the switches used so that I can purchase at least a couple of them as I have twin track on my bridge when it eventually gets installed. Plus would I also need said switches on the other end of the bridge, so that running either way no train will start before the bridge in back in situ.

Ian

[traingeekboy]

In my case I had to remove my bridge, at which point I became unhinged. *groan* ha ha

[IanR]

Quote

That is axactly what I am looking for to isolate the track when my bridge is up. Can you please supply details of the switches used so that I can purchase at least a couple of them as I have twin track on my bridge when it eventually gets installed. Plus would I also need said switches on the other end of the bridge, so that running either way no train will start before the bridge in back in situ.

If your track is live at both sides of the lifting section, as mine is, you will need a switch at both sides, so double track will need four switches. If your track is only live at one side and you rely on the 'bridge' to carry the current across, you can get away with only using one switch (two for double track). You only need the switch to act on one of the rails of each track.

You need 'push to make' non-latching switches. I got mine from a local electrical spares store but there are lots online. I'm not sure about the weather resistance of these switches. The section on my layout where the switches are is kept indoors. The switches are cheap enough to replace if they fail though. It would be a good idea to spray them regularly with a contact cleaner / lubricant.

These should be suitable http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321143254011?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I'll sketch a diagram and post it on here later.

Hope this helps.

Ian R

[grockle]

Thanks for the link Ian R, they will do exactly what I want and yes I will need to get 4 of them for starters, but I will of course buy a couple of spares as well. Better to have and not need than not have and need.

Ian