Jump to content
mainthreadmartin

Operating Points Outdoors

Recommended Posts

You are looking at the wrong page of the manual. Page 2 is for Slow motion turnout machines. The central locking drives are 2 wire solenoid turnout machines as shown on Page 3.

Jumper open as Mick said.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 03/08/2010 at 09:59, IanR said:

I have had no problems with the Peco points themselves but before laying the you will need to attach bonding wires as shown on the photo. You cannot rely on the point blades to provide electrical contact outdoors, well not for very long anyway!
Also the points have an overcentre spring which is made from steel, this needs lubricating every so often to prevent it from rusting away, once again I use silicone grease, not the spray but the sort that is available in a tube. Vaseline may do the trick too.

ianr5.jpg

Bond wires on Peco Insulfrog point

I've never been shy about admitting it, for the first few years of Railway Modelling I just copied what Ian did. So I have done this to all my points. I've done it to points in my indoor layouts because...

The issues I now have is the the bonds to the point blade are failing. I'm not going to lift the points to re solder them, too much hassle. I've just lived with them being dead. But running old models with few pickups dead point blades became annoying.

Thinking about it I realised that I could clean up the stock-rail and blade sides to enable electrical conductivity again. I applied a little WD40 with a brush and gently scraped the sides with the point of a 1mm drill bit I had to hand. It worked a treat. Trains ran though noticeably smother, especially through ladder junctions where wheels can be on more than one point at a time.

Definitely worth doing if your points giving you trouble.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

For anyone needing a cheaper DCC Decoder to work with the CDL motors, in theory, a DCC Concepts AD1-HP should do the job. I’ve ordered up a CDL motor and will confirm once I get the chance to wire it up. I’ve got loads of AD1-HPs that I took off of Oak Road when I switched to Digikeijs so it would be daft not to use them. They have two outputs that are both + and - firing the opposite on Y / N, and above all, you can buy them for under a tenner! £6.50 if you look on eBay. 

Edited by scoobyra

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, scoobyra said:

For anyone needing a cheaper DCC Decoder to work with the CDL motors, in theory, a DCC Concepts AD1-HP should do the job. I’ve ordered up a CDL motor and will confirm once I get the chance to wire it up. I’ve got loads of AD1-HPs that I took off of Oak Road when I switched to Digikeijs so it would be daft not to use them. They have two outputs that are both + and - firing the opposite on Y / N, and above all, you can buy them for under a tenner! £6.50 if you look on eBay. 

The AD1-HP don't appear to have a discharge capacitor so I doubt they will work CDL off track power. May be OK with it's own 12v power supply.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, chris said:

The AD1-HP don't appear to have a discharge capacitor so I doubt they will work CDL off track power. May be OK with it's own 12v power supply.

They are different to the normal AD1s. These are high powered ones - I’ve used them on other stuff requiring high power. I’ll let you know once it turns up 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It would be good to know whether they are powerful enough to operate two CDLs at the same time, for a crossover. Looking forward to reading your report.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update as promised. 
The CDL unit arrived from eBay so last night I wired it up to the AD1-HP, and then realised it may work properly due to how the decoder operates. The AD1-HPs are effectively the circuit board from a Cobalt IP Digital, which is a stall motor, therefore it will continually drive a motor until it gets to the stop point. Anyway, I wired it up and it did work, to a point....where it threw the arm out but it then bounced back causing the command station to trip out. What I didn’t do was limit the travel and stop it bouncing back. I’ll give it another try and see what happens. It may also be that Chris was right in the fact that although the decoder can actually power the motor, it may be drawing too much current. I’ll soon find out. Back shortly. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...