Jump to content

'The Oakdale Valley' Garden Railway:


sykarost
 Share

Recommended Posts

Great, the posing stage - that means we're almost there! :) Nice loco's too. I'm sure we'll be seeing much more of them in the coming weeks and months and I'm looking forward to sitting back and watching. I'm pleased to hear your optimism for the canted curves and really do hope that everything goes well and trouble free.

...Although planned & built in a pretty un-scientific way....

There's a different way of doing things....? :?

With regards to rail bonding, I see there are several members who find it best to do part soldering indoors. I've never tried it myself but I imagine, as Andrew points out, that it would require some careful thought with the curve sections in order not to obstruct the movement of the sleepers once the wires have been soldered to the sides of the rails. Personally I prefer to get the track in place, nice and solid, and then I have something substantial to solder to but it's all a matter of personal preference and the deciding factor may well be just how cold it is out there! Whichever way you decide to go, and if it's important to you, take a look at the rail bonds on IanR's Kirkfield & Warmthorpe Railway for inspiration. On my previous layout I just soldered a wire across the join without seeing just how much neater they could be made to look and how they can be better disguised with a bit more care.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 205
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Andrew & Mick, many thanks again for the continued support & encouragement, it really is nice to know that you & all the other Guy's on here are keen to see my railway take shape & get to the operating stage.... OK, I know there's a certain 'self interest' but it's incidental compared to the motivation it's giving me to get on with it rather than say that's it now til the spring. Sylvia cannot believe it when I 'kit up' to go outside but is becoming quite enthusiastic herself to see trains running so pressure all round for me then!! :roll::roll:

I'm very appreciative too of all that information re bonding which will be very helpful. I will be honest & say that this aspect has caused me some concern & I am still a bit nervous of screwing it up but having all these 'guidelines' means I have no excuse to do that ;) !

Excuse my ignorance here but going back to basics (which I'm bloomin really good at... :lol: ) I do have a couple of questions while we are on this subject, the answers may already exist on the forum & I don't want to waste anyone's time with this but.......

1)I was planning on using domestic 3 core cable with Red for live & Black the return (I have loads of this left over from a re-wire). On straight lengths I thought the 'tails' only needed to be about an inch long, soldered to track & once laid to each other in situ. On reflection I suppose it would be better to just use Black both sides as it would be less obvious & easier to hide............??

2) The tricky bit as said are those curves, My thoughts were to lay them without pinning down to determine & mark the cuts, number each length according to a track plan, cut off the excess rail then solder the wire tails on (as above) knowing each rail will fit when re-laid in order...... any thoughts?

3) As my plan is basically an elongated but simple out & back oval (initially with one passing loop x two points) are there any 'polarity' issues in respect of where power is applied or doe's it matter which track is connected (this will be just inside the shed)??

4) The points will be hand operated as the loop is on the wider board 2nd from the shed & just meant to hold a train to allow another to do the circuit, as the point blades will direct power should I use 'Live or Insul-frog'??

You could be excused for thinking I'm a total newbie to creating a model railway but even my garage layout is simplicity itself but it keeps me happy & needs a lot of concentration to operate without creating another 'Harrow & Wealdstone' scenario.... :( Google it if your not that old! ;)

As a small 'reward' for your valuable help I will now find another few Loco pic's :):)

Brian.

DSCF3114.JPG

Z12 (13).JPG

Z12 (14).JPG

Z12 (8).JPG

587a481e76a4f_Z12(9).JPG.6285ae319285e60516331a605c4715de.JPG

587a481e8a891_Z12(13).JPG.e335e75a98975463f0f2a945b847867c.JPG

587a481e96c87_Z12(14).JPG.8dcb8d59a058b6e3983e450601fba281.JPG

587a481eaa7c8_Z12(8).JPG.1698af8f460bbf9f9f6902f7c5b36421.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

he he unscientific. I believe even Nasa had to do some quick refits when their perfect plans went awry.

It looks great. The loco selection promises to be quite a show once things are running as well.

I really like that varnished bridge too.

Oh yeah... Garden looks beautiful now. ;)

Thanks Griff....... So the 'Ugly Duckling' is turning into a 'Fine Swan' then :D Glad your enjoying progress so far.

My selection of Loco's is not massive by any means but enough to ensure at least some variety. I'm going to a local

Model Railway Club exhibition tomorrow, not so much to look at layouts but to rummage amongst the Loco's & stock

for sale as I'm not adverse to buying pre-owned if I like it & the price is right so might be some additions to the 'family'

this time tomorrow.

As for my 'cobbled together' bridge, it still requires further 'treatment' as it was a bit rushed.......... You know when you

find some bits, have an idea & think ........ Gotta do it before I forget... Thus 'Instant bridge' which makes a nice transition

from boards to terra firma & where I intend to build a station platform (have not mentioned THAT before :idea: ).

Brian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Soldering, polarity, points: we're getting to the nitty gritty stuff now!

For the rail bonds just use the darker, less prominent colour on each opposing rail. Also, don't use a wire that is too think, domestic cable would be overkill for rail bonds and will be difficult to solder to the rail sides neatly. I began soldering my rail bonds using the individual wires from 2.5mm cable (blue & brown) until someone kindly pointed out the aforementioned advice. I don't have a clue as to how to work out the correct gauge wire but if you've ever seen a live frog point, such as Peco produce, just take note of the thickness of the wire that is attached to the point for frog feed - it's just like a thin fuse wire but is obviously sufficient to carry the required track power.

Regarding soldering on the curves I do find it easier to solder once they are in final position. I don't think I would ever get the track back in exactly the same location if I kept lifting it after it had been cut to size but that's probably just me. Give it a try and see which method you prefer, even if it means you end up losing part of a meter length of track.

Now for the polarity issue. Exactly what's going to happen when the track enters the shed? Didn't you mention it would exit the rear and then come back in again? In essence, even though it's going to look like double track running you're in fact going to have just one single circle if that is the case. If you're making a complete circle or loop where the trains will be circulating round then you shouldn't have any polarity issues and with just a couple of sets of points it should be relatively simple to wire with additional feeds perhaps needed for the loop section. I don't have much experience of using non-DCC control so I must ask if you intend to incorporate sections to enable more than one train at a time or whether additional trains will be held and isolated in sidings/loops? In this respect DCC is much easier! Will there be storage loops inside the shed?

I think insulfrog points are much less trouble for installation outdoors but if you have no intention of motorising them then you could actually use either but depending on which you choose there may be a need for insulated rail joiners and additional power feeds. Would have to go into that in greater detail later.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just an afterthought having had time to sleep on it. I've actually used the busbar and dropper method of wiring my present outdoor section (I'll refrain from calling it a layout just yet). Each section of track is connected to 2 wires that run along the outside of my track base so as each section of track receives it's own power supply from the main busbar the wires used to connect to the track can actually be smaller gauge (in my theory that is). I still think you could get away with a small gauge wire for the rail bonds even if you don't include a busbar rather than trying to solder domestic cable across the joins if that is indeed what you had in mind. Once I wake up fully I'll no doubt think of something else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Soldering indoors at a table is convenient, but soldering just isn't that hard. Once you get the feel of it, it becomes easy.

We are building model railroads. Lives do not hang in the balance if you don't get it right the first time. :lol::lol::lol:

If you've done your indoor layout you must know how to do it. But for anyone else i'm just going to rephrase myself, yet again. :)

-Put some flux on the place to be soldered.

-Press your wire lead against the side of the rail.

-Once it's had time to heat up, set the soldering iron tip on the top of the rail.

(This is the key point here. You want to heat the objects you are soldering and let that heat melt the solder. Follow this rule and you'll have beautiful solder joints.)

-Press the solder on the side of the rail and wait for it to flow. Then remove the iron.

-Hold everything in place long enough for the solder to harden.

Once you've done 30 droppers you should be a pro.

Good luck with the used train stuff. It's always like christmas when you get a new/used treat. :mrgreen:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, thanks Guy's. Mick, Ian R & Griff, I won't reiterate all the things you have said in response of my questions so long as you know I am most grateful for the time & effort you have put in to help me through the next hurdle & onto potentially the 'home straight'!! The value of this forum is immeasurable because without this kind of advice, support & understanding I doubt I would have even reached this position or certainly not so quickly at least. Rest assured I will be taking on board all the good advice & cannot wait to press on despite the pretty mixed weather forecast.

I have indeed come to my senses in respect of the 'bonding wire' & realise that domestic wire was a bit 'overkill' & have obtained some 3amp which I'm reliably informed will be adequate for my analogue system (but not DCC). I was probably going for the heavy duty stuff on the basis that 'bigger is better' (which is only true in certain cases ;) ) & may have been less 'fiddly' to handle & solder. After Griff's 'tutorial' however I'm now almost looking forward to it :) .

I am also the proud owner of TWO new loco's which I could not resist during my visit to that local MR show. Bearing in mind 'Oakdale Valley' and 'Oakdale Jct' are broadly based on former LMS/Midland territory in Derbyshire you might wonder why these additions are...... A GWR 28xx 2-8-0 (pre-nat livery) and a maroon Western Hydraulic D1019 'Western Challenger' :? ! The reason is that I've again come to my senses & decided that my two other 'impulse buy' GWR loco's needed some company & that there seems no need for 'purism' on a garden/outdoor railway.... whatever you run will look good (blimey,I'll be looking at the SR next):lol:

Having serviced them & checked they are running OK I decided to practice some detailing & weathering which I will photograph in due course. I did forget to take some 'befores' so you will only get to see the 'afters'. The 28xx is an Hornby with the 'Ringfield 6' tender drive so it's getting on a bit but the bonus is that it has the 'glowing' firebox AND (for those that remember them) a 'SMOKE GENERATOR' below the chimney :o:o Which is why I think I could not resist it as I had a similar fitted 2-6-2 Tank loco many (many) years ago & the smoke oil smelt quite nice..... :roll: The firebox glow works but still have to test the smoke which apparently can be created by using 'baby oil' :) ,Sylvia's eyes lit up when I came home & asked if we had any until I explained why!!

Well, with a week of sunshine & showers (apparently), I suspect I will get a few hours outside & so hope to report some real progress next time..... now where did I put that soldering iron :lol: !!

Cheers Guys.

Brian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Word of caution about smokers. Don't use anything other that the appropriate smoke oil, as I did sometime ago on one of my smokers. Although it smelt nice, the end result was a knackered smoke unit. As all of my smokers are of the much older Tri-ang variety, trying to get the heating element are nigh impossible, so I'm now a smoker down. Bah Humbug :evil:

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Word of caution about smokers. Don't use anything other that the appropriate smoke oil, as I did sometime ago on one of my smokers. Although it smelt nice, the end result was a knackered smoke unit. As all of my smokers are of the much older Tri-ang variety, trying to get the heating element are nigh impossible, so I'm now a smoker down. Bah Humbug :evil:

Ian

Thanks for those words of warning Ian, am I likely to get away with it just once to test that it actually works before I try to obtain the pukka stuff or will once

be once too often? I can live without the smoke if it's already knackered but be a shame not to use it if it works. As the rage is all about sound emitting Loco's these days I think the sight of a smoker to the youngsters might be considered 'new technology' ;) !!

Brian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've heard of people using Baby Oil too (I'm sure it was for loco's :) ) so I would assume that a trial run just to see if the unit is operational wouldn't do a lot of harm. You'd only need a few drops anyway but I'd certainly not consider it for extended use. Here's hoping it still works because the youngsters will love it for sure.

And if we start getting lots of strange ads on the site I blame the person who first mentioned baby oil!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess it will be down to me then..... :lol::lol: !!

I've not tried it yet Mick, got to try & scrounge a few drops of B--y O-l from someone as it's not worth buying a full bottle, it will never get used.... :o !

More progress (but no photo's yet) this week. I've only been able to fit in a few hours here & there but the boards have been secured & I have cut the access into the shed to establish my 'inside level' for the internal baseboards which I have purchased. If the weather is not suitable for outside work I can at least be constructive installing them, if it's dry then I can probably be laying the felt. All of which is more fun than the myriad of silly little DIY jobs Sylvia could find for me to do if I was not just toooooooo busy ;) !!

I am now seriously considering building that bridge/viaduct rather than laying track over the temporary one to avoid disturbing it later. As you say Mick, it's not a massive construction & I just need to decide if I'm going with your method of cut blocks or taking the 'concrete road'...... mmm :idea: .

I did not set myself a 'time scale' when starting out on this project so I don't know if I'm ahead or behind schedule but Sylvia said I had told her it would be a 'summer project' for next year.... :? I don't remember that but if it's true then I'm very much ahead of myself & if we have any summer of course I will be enjoying running trains just like all you guys. I was even looking at PLANTS yesterday :roll::roll:

Brian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...I am now seriously considering building that bridge/viaduct rather than laying track over the temporary one to avoid disturbing it later...

I think that's a decision you'd be glad to have made. The block method is easy enough if you've got an old saw (if you haven't then you will have) and a coarse file. How high does it need to be? You might even be able to chop the blocks in half to make a low viaduct or bridge. Just make sure you get the lightweight aerated blocks that cut easily!!

A time scale is also something I never really set this time although I had hoped to be more advanced than I currently am. The more sedate, leisurely, pace is better than trying to keep to a rigid timetable but I've become slightly bogged down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mick, yes I think it would be best to do that when I have a suitable 'weather window'. I can still be laying track either side so it's not as if nothing can be done in the meantime. I have just acquired some more surplus bricks from my Son in Law who said he also had three 'building blocks' I could have, yippee thinks me until I found they were 'concrete blocks'..... I'm not cutting them!

I have actually made a start on bonding my track lengths, as mentioned before, I have no real experience with a soldering iron but am now getting into it and am bonding 2 x 3' flexi lengths together at a time & adding 'tails' each end which will only mean soldering the wires together in situ once laid. I'm getting the hang of it but oh how tedious but no doubt worthwhile in the long run.

I suppose the problem is Mick, at this time of year it's easy to lose the momentum. Although I've made good progress from a 'standing start' I still need to get out there even for short periods to do a little something as I don't want to come to a total standstill for a long period & have trouble getting going again. Problem is there are always other demands on our time & although I'm now retired I guess many of you guys are still working so can hardly be blamed for 'lifting the throttle' sometimes......... Gives ME time to catch up!! :P

Brian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...at this time of year it's easy to lose the momentum...

I can lose momentum at ANY time of year! I never lose the desire to have an operational garden layout, just the momentum that keeps construction moving forward. In my defence I wish I could say that my free time was limited but that's not the case and so I really have no other excuse to offer :oops:

I wouldn't worry too much about a lack of momentum at this time of year. Right at this moment it's absolutely throwing it down outside and I've just been down to check on the fish. The garden is sodden, squelching underfoot, and it'll take more than a couple of days to dry out. There are times when it's not possible or advisable to do anything otherwise you'll just end up trampling it all into one big muddy mess.

You mentioned you'd been looking at plants - are there any that you could recommend as being suitable for alongside the railway? I guess that they would need to be small leaved evergreen types?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You mentioned you'd been looking at plants - are there any that you could recommend as being suitable for alongside the railway? I guess that they would need to be small leaved evergreen types?

Re the plants Mick, I'm no expert but Sylvia tells me that 'Sedums' (I think this is a generic name for different types) are good for ground cover, they don't grow in height and are sturdy & 'crushable' so if you accidentally plant your size 10 on them they will recover..... I was also looking at small Heathers & if you have a B & Q nearby they have a tray of six mixed type/colours for about £5.50 which look like small trees & which I think I will eventually buy.

As for the state of the garden, we too have had some real heavy rain so I think it's best avoided for the time being.

I'm hoping to visit the 'Warley Show' ( http://www.thewarleyshow.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ) at the NEC this weekend...... well it is almost on my doorstep :roll:

so I need to prepare a 'shopping list', it's not just the women who can enjoy a bit of 'retail therapy' is it?? ;)

Brian.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like collecting things like bricks. They do come in handy in the garden somewhere, you just never know. Also you could construct the bridge our of bricks and then use cement as stucco, or mold the curved pieces you need and use bricks for verticals/ cross sections and then stucco it.

No rules to keep you to just one type of construction. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...