chris Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 Quote Added to my shopping list now, apart from the cross-board electrical plugs and sockets I was stood out side Maplins in Sheffield wondering what it was I need to buy from there. Now I remember. At the moment I'm using two terminal strips for cross board connections. The plug is made by inserting 5 cm lengths 2.5mm solid core copper wire, these are screwed in place and stick out the block. The socket is the other terminal block, which the copper rods plug into. Yes you have to screw up the terminals on the socket, but it works rather well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 Funny you should mention that Chris because I'd just been looking at a pluggable terminal block actually designed along those lines. For the small number of wires I am concerned with something like that should do fine. I've been a bit under the weather with a bout of cold for the past couple of days but I've now got the base of the two platforms in place. It was another case of working indoors yesterday due to the dreadful weather so there are limitations on the amount of work I've been able to do but with the sun breaking through today I might be able to get outdoors later to do some necessary sanding. It will also give me an opportunity to grab a couple of photographs of the work so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 I've been outdoors for the past couple of hours with the boards erected together so that I could continue working on the platforms. I've chosen to form the platform bases out of 18mm thick softwood which, once it receives a top covering, will be of sufficient height. I'm thinking of covering the platform faces with plasticard but haven't yet come to a firm decision. The following images, some of them of similar content, show how things stand right now. First an overall view from the station approach looking down on the 3-way point and double slip which give access to the main platform as well as the bay platform. You can also just see where I have located the point switches, as an integral part of the first baseboard rather than on a separate control panel. The next couple of images are again from the station approach end focusing on where the signal box will be located. The one featured is part of the Hornby Skaledale range and is included as a guide. The signal box was purchased as being in 'unused' condition with no mention of the two broken finials on top of the roof. The following image shows the view from the platform end and clearly illustrates how I've used shaped strips of softwood to form the platform bases. These are relatively light additions and have been glued and screwed to the baseboard. Finally another view similar to ones already featured but included because I like it. I'll have to do something about the dimples of plastic on top of the sleepers attached to the point blades which really look out of place here and aren't required for operating below the baseboard point motors. Next on the agenda will be painting the sides of the rails and ballasting. At this point, most modellers will have firm ideas about what they will be doing next but other than painting the rails and ballasting I have no definite plans. It's obvious where the station building will be going and the signal box looks at home in the location above. I'm not sure what to do about the background or how the sidings/yard area will be developed although I do believe my turntable will need to be situated in the area to the right and just before the 3-way point at the very start of the first board. We'll just have to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted October 2, 2010 Author Share Posted October 2, 2010 A small station such as the one modelled here would be unlikely to have had a turntable, let alone a great big long one. But with operational interest in mind I decided that I would include one. I knew where it was going to be fitted as with my track plan it's the most likely location and leaves me free to develop the yard/sidings area for additional traffic and storage. I didn't intend putting it in place today but with the layout set up outdoors and some work with the jigsaw required I thought, why not? It's easier cleaning up outside than having to get the dusters out indoors afterwards. So, the turntable well is a South East Finecast moulding and comes with the circular well as an integral part of a square moulding. Think of it as a square plastic plate with the turntable well vacuum formed within its outer perimeter. The instructions state that the outer plastic can be left on but I decided to cut around the circular well and discard the outer material. I simply ran around the edge with a sharp craft knife until I was able to snap the outer plastic away. Turning the well upside down and placing it in its intended location, I drew around the edge with a pencil and then made another circular line a little in from the first. Using the jigsaw I then cut along the inner pencil line and epoxied the turntable well in place. This is how it looks now that it's fitted in place. The signalman's going to have a grandstand view of it all. I was surprised at how strong and rigid the actual well of the turntable is - half expecting it to be a flimsy plastic moulding, so I'm really very pleased with it. Just need to get the turntable bridge sorted out now and think of some means of operating it. It will be used only for turning loco's around for their next working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted October 4, 2010 Share Posted October 4, 2010 Looking good Mick. The turntable looks like it is going to be a great addition and I like the idea of using softwodo to build up the height of the platforms! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 Still suffering the effects of a cold and feeling a bit under the weather so there was no further progress yesterday but that gave me a chance to take a look at what I've done so far and consider some changes. The right-hand platform looks like it could be extended slightly but there would need to be a signal protecting the 3-way point at a spot roughly where the platform currently ends. However, it might look better with a few more inches added. I also feel that the platform end ramps need easing to a less severe gradient although they do look worse on the photographs. Now that I've added the well for the turntable I have unfortunately all but lost the opportunity to have a 'head shunt' from the sidings area and so any lengthy shunting movements within the proposed yard might need to run out onto the main lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted October 4, 2010 Author Share Posted October 4, 2010 I've now extended the secondary platform towards the junction by about 6 inches or so which makes it appear more realistic. I have also shaved a tiny bit more off the platform ramps so it's not such an uphill climb. Again they look better for the work but I'm still unsure as to whether that's enough or not? The photo below was taken indoors just to show the platform extension. The additional length of track is there as a guide and isn't fixed down but there will be a road running behind this platform and used for storage purposes (extra coach rake perhaps). I hadn't envisaged using it as an extra platform and still feel that I have enough with the 2 main ones without crowding it all out with another. This additional road will be part of the yard area and accessed from the 3-way point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted October 14, 2010 Author Share Posted October 14, 2010 Catching up with some long overdue diy tasks around the home has meant there's been no further progress with either the indoor or garden layout since my previous posts. I'm eager to get started again but I really must finish off indoors first. There was a time when I felt happy doing a bit of diy but these days it's no longer an enjoyable task. I have mentioned previously that I have several GWR coaches - in fact I have a rake of Collett coaches in GWR brown/cream livery and a similar set in BR crimson/cream. I also have a large number of BR MK1s in the brown/cream livery of the Western Region and recently I've got hold of some of the new Hornby Hawksworth coaches. However, there's coaches galore but I have very few western region locomotives to haul them and so I've taken the plunge and ordered a Great Western Castle with digital sound to redress the balance. More of that later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted November 8, 2010 Author Share Posted November 8, 2010 I've not done much with the indoor layout recently but I've now ordered some materials to make a start on the platform sides. I've ordered some sheets of brick effect embossed plasticard which I hope will look okay along the platform face. It's all new to me so I'll have to see how it goes. One of the main points I have to think about when contemplating any kind of modelling work is what type of glue/adhesive is most appropriate to the task. There are so many different types of glues available these days. Wonder what's the best adhesive to use to bond narrow strips of plasticard sheets to the wooden platform faces? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted November 9, 2010 Share Posted November 9, 2010 I've done quite a bit of this kind of gluing when building models for my wargames. I assume by narrow strips, they'll be about 1/2 inch wide to match standard British platform heights of 3ft (or 12mm in OO) above rail height which is a little bit less than above baseboard level, obviously. You can't go very wrong with two-part epoxy for bonding plasticard to wood, although I'd probably be tempted to be lazy and use my hot glue gun for an indoor model. PVA should work as the join won't take much hammer in operation, although you should key the side of the plasticard which will be next to the wood to get a better bond. I definately wouldn't recommend any kind of cyanoacrylate (superglue) for this job, though, as its not good with porous surfaces like wood. The best part about this particular task, though, is that the top of the plasticard will be covered by the lip platform of the platform and the bottom by ballast, which between them should be able to hide a whole multitude of sins! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted November 9, 2010 Author Share Posted November 9, 2010 Dave said: ...I assume by narrow strips, they'll be about 1/2 inch wide to match standard British platform heights of 3ft (or 12mm in OO) above rail height which is a little bit less than above baseboard level, obviously. The strips will be 18mm in width to match the thickness of the softwood I used for the platform bases. According to the standard dimensions for platform heights I'm aware they might be a mm or two too high but I've tested it with some MK1 coaching stock and it looks fine while still leaving sufficient room for the platform surface itself. Dave said: ...You can't go very wrong with two-part epoxy for bonding plasticard to wood, although I'd probably be tempted to be lazy and use my hot glue gun for an indoor model. I detest that two part epoxy stuff for bonding anything. I always seem to get it everywhere even before I begin to put it where it's supposed to go. With that in mind, and in light of your suggestion, I've just ordered a hot glue gun Dave said: ...The best part about this particular task, though, is that the top of the plasticard will be covered by the lip platform of the platform and the bottom by ballast, which between them should be able to hide a whole multitude of sins! You've obviously been keeping a close eye on my recent modelling work both in and out of doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted November 10, 2010 Share Posted November 10, 2010 I would use a contact adhesive for that job, such as Evo-Stik Impact or Time-Bond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted November 10, 2010 Author Share Posted November 10, 2010 IanR said: I would use a contact adhesive for that job, such as Evo-Stik Impact or Time-Bond. No problem Ian. Contact adhesive I can live with - just so long as it doesn't come in 2 separate tubes and has to be mixed together. The hot glue gun will come in useful anyway - I have been on the look out for one for some time as it happens. I'll let you know how I get on once the plasticard sheets arrive and I've had a go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 I'd probably use 'Time-Bond', available at Wilkinsons, as it gives time to reposition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted November 11, 2010 Share Posted November 11, 2010 I think a trip to Wilkos is in order. Can never have too many adhesive options! Thanks, Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 I'd better make a list... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ba14eagle Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Quote The right-hand platform looks like it could be extended slightly but there would need to be a signal protecting the 3-way point at a spot roughly where the platform currently ends Mick A platform mounted signal would provide the solution here - not often seen modelled. Should think if you set it back 3 or 4 inches from the top of the ramp it would look good. I can't think immediately of anyone who produces a 'ready to plant' one, but there are plenty of companies out there making good quality signal kits, which as I have found, even in N gauge, go together fairly easily. Iain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 HamptonFieldRailway said: ...A platform mounted signal would provide the solution here - not often seen modelled. Should think if you set it back 3 or 4 inches from the top of the ramp it would look good. I can't think immediately of anyone who produces a 'ready to plant' one, but there are plenty of companies out there making good quality signal kits, which as I have found, even in N gauge, go together fairly easily. Iain Yes, I've been looking at signals and agree that a platform mounted one would look good on the longer platform. Still undecided whether this will be colour light or semaphore but I'm edging towards colour lights I think, although there's plenty of time for me to change my mind. I've had the 2 boards erected in the living room this evening and almost completed adding the plastikard facing to the platforms. I'll have to get another sheet of plastikard in order to be able to finish it all. As per IanRs suggestion, I glued it to the edge of the softwood battens with Time-Bond which is much easier to work with than two-part epoxy and has a nice lingering aroma I did try to take a couple of photos to record my progress but even with the flash firing away I couldn't catch the detail correctly so I'll try to get some better shots tomorrow in natural light. For now here's a couple from this evening. I had been a little concerned after reading details in other forums that by using 18mm softwood as a base for my platforms, the height of them would be too high. If they are a bit too high then I really don't think it's going to matter that much as it looks okay to me with the Bachmann MK1 coach alongside. Granted there's still the platform surface to be installed but that's only going to add another millimetre or so. Once the platform facings have had a wash of paint and edging stones added, I'm sure the joins in the plastikard will barely show. Ballast will conceal the bottom edge. The next image shows nothing of the work on the platforms but depicts another recent acquisition from the Bachmann stable. This is the IPA car transporter and by all accounts the red livery first appeared in 1995 so it's truly modern image. I purchased four of these at a cost of approx £22 each which by present day standards is extremely good value for money but as the IPA's operate coupled together as twin sets, that £22 doesn't just get you the one shown in the photo below, you actually get 2 of them. Each of these beauties therefore costs a mere £11 each - can you believe that? The only drawback is that if you want to run them loaded with cars, a set of 8 cars will be available for a RRP of £11.95, and that's sufficient to fill just one vehicle. Still, couldn't resist getting them and there'll be some better photos when the lighting is more suitable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted November 19, 2010 Author Share Posted November 19, 2010 With my better half away for a few days I took the opportunity to leave the layout set up in the living room overnight so that a start could be made nice and early today. However, there's not a lot more work I can do just now until I got the materials needed for the platform tops but it gives me a chance to sit and look at things and decide where I would like to go next. After initially cutting the plastikard strips slightly oversize I've now gently sanded them level with the top platform edge and it gives a much better impression of how it will all look once it's finished. At least it's starting to look something like a railway now. Of course, I've cleaned up really well as I've gone along and you'd never know that the layout had been in the living room at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 Looking good with the platform edge in textured plasticard, Mick Will you be leaving it in this colour, or painting it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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