Worsley Dale Garden Railway

[mick]

Especially for Tony, here's a photo of a couple of my SEEP point motors mounted beneath the baseboards. It's a bit dark under the boards but I hope you can see how they fit. The pin you can see extends upwards through the baseboard and passes through the circular hole in the point tie bar. The only hole you need to make in the baseboard is one for that pin to pass through.

Moving on and today I've done a little bit more ballasting, this time towards the loco shed area. I've also made a start on adding a concrete apron between the tracks that pass through the loco shed. It's going to need some reworking once its had time to dry thoroughly but that's the way I tend to work. There's no photos of that just yet which is perhaps just as well but I'll certainly be adding some later to show how it's progressing.

The final couple of pieces of track to the rear of the loco shed have been wired to the power bus.

My maroon liveried Dapol class 52 Western loco has now had a sound chip fitted and although the actual process is relatively straightforward I did cause myself some unnecessary grief. I fitted the chip itself and soldered the speaker wires to the loco circuit board. It wouldn't work. Not only was there no sound but the chip wasn't responding at all. I unpacked the blue Dapol Western, removed the body, fitted the soundchip and speaker and tried it. It didn't work. The locos worked fine on standard DC power so it was either a faulty chip or something to do with the DCC circuitry on the Westerns. As a last resort I plugged a class 37 soundchip into the maroon Western. It didn't work. Something seriously wrong here.

And then I had a thought and it suddenly dawned on me how stupid I had been. I had picked up my 'wireless' Prodigy handset and plugged it into the base station using the cable, fully expecting it to work as a cabled handset. It wouldn't work! As soon as I changed the handset for the standard hand-held one everything was hunky dorey!

Finally, I have added some photos of my newly acquired Bachmann LMS Twins in Black & Chrome livery elsewhere on the forum but here's just one photo of the pair standing at the entrance to the still under construction loco shed. These are a stunning looking pair and quite possibly my favourite locos in my entire collection.

[mick]

Yesterday I began pouring a mix of Polyfilla around the loco shed area in order to represent the concrete base. I started off by just doing the central section between the loco inspection pits using a straight edge across the adjacent rail tops to make it as level as I could. I wasn't sure how it would turn out so left it overnight before doing any more. Taking a look this morning I felt comfortable enough to go a bit further and so the areas either side of the inspection pits were similarly filled with the same Poyfilla mix and some temporary lengths of track were pinned in place to enable me to use a straight edge across the area to level it off. Looking at the photo below, the two sections of track at either edge of the concrete base are the temporary sections which will be removed once the mix is dry. It might look a bit rough and ready but I'm sure I can work on it from here to create a realistic base for the loco shed to stand on. The good thing about Polyfilla is that it carves and sands easily so I don't foresee any problems giving it that final shaping other than a bit of dust!

As for the loco shed, well I've added a few more detailing parts to it, including the self-adhesive yellow and black stripes to the doors and the roof extractors, vents, and louvres. I still need to paint the lower brick area around the base and of course add some subtle weathering. I think it will do nicely once it's all completed. You'll notice that I've chosen to extend the tracks through the loco shed and they will terminate in buffer stops, because the shed isn't quite long enough to take the longer locomotives (my Western sticks out a fraction at either end although the class 26 fits inside nicely).

When all this is done I can then finish off the loco yard track ballasting and begin thinking about some finer detailing including fencing to separate the shed from the running lines and perhaps fuelling, coaling facilities.

[aussietmrail]

Hi Mick, many thanks for the info on those catch points, forgot about the finer codes, they should have them printed on the packet as well.

mick said:

Especially for Tony, here's a photo of a couple of my SEEP point motors mounted beneath the baseboards. It's a bit dark under the boards but I hope you can see how they fit. The pin you can see extends upwards through the baseboard and passes through the circular hole in the point tie bar. The only hole you need to make in the baseboard is one for that pin to pass through.

Neat job with those points beneath the base board, do you still need a switch for signals or you can wire the signals in as well.

I checked on eBay how much the seep motors are and they cost in Aussie dollar $11 $15 postage will have to buy a few at a time, be the way to go, I was going to use those car door locking motors, the sleep motors are the same price will go the seep motors easier to set up.

You sure are moving along with detail on your layout with the added workshop shed, very nice indeed, b looking forward to seeing where you will be adding in a refuelling platform and sand tower will sure set the loco facility off nicely, will you be adding working lights.

I will be ringing up a Lions club up on Monday, they help out in doing work in houses and other clubs , very big in Ipswich to see if they can give me a lending hand to speed up the construction mainly on the station modules, do you have them in in the UK as well. I need the modify 6 modules and cut them down to 2ft by 6ft so that way I can concentrate on the spiral construction, need one more curve section to cut,

How much more work do you have to do in the shed before moving back outside.

Nice morning my side of the world some showers hanging around today, winter is still here, next week the morning are going down to 4 degrees.

Tony from down under

[mick]

 

aussietmrail said:

...Neat job with those points beneath the base board, do you still need a switch for signals or you can wire the signals in as well...

With this model of SEEP motor there's just the one switch available but as you'll probably already have read, I haven't found them to be all that reliable. There's a slightly cheaper version of the SEEP without a switch so perhaps that might be the better option and then look for an alternative means of switch for the signals?

aussietmrail said:

..How much more work do you have to do in the shed before moving back outside....

Not a lot really - it's pretty much all working now so there's just the scenic stuff to add and things to tidy up a bit. I'm not sure how far to go with it to be honest so I'll just take things as they come.

I've started smoothing off the Polyfilla area around the loco shed and, using a folded piece of sandpaper, I've created grooves through the plaster for the loco wheels to pass down. The areas I plastered yesterday aren't quite dry so I'll give it a day or two before finishing it off. It can then be painted. I've removed the temporary lengths of rail that were used as a guide for laying the plaster and filled in the voids that were left. It looks okay and I'm looking forward to getting the surrounding area ballasted.

[traingeekboy]

I am excited to see the lines connect. At the same time, I think that working on what feels fun is the best way to go. Once the tasks that feel like tasks pile up too much, I lose interest. Regardless of your project, I look forward to seeing more pics.

[mick]

It's getting a bit late in the year now but I've finally made a start on the extension to the viaduct. I'm still not sure exactly where this is going to go or where the eventual transition onto the proposed elevated plywood baseboard will take place so you'll just have to bear with me for the time being. Autumn is certainly not the best time to begin any major construction but hopefully I should be able to get the worst of it out of the way before the weather finally turns.

Once the foundations and viaduct arches are in position there's the task of raising the surrounding borders to bring them up to the base of the viaduct so that it doesn't look so precarious. I'm confident that it will be solid enough but I may decide to add some additional blocks endways on for that bit of extra support.

Every arch is that bit closer to finally completing the circuit (that's what I keep telling myself) so I need to get back out there and do some more whilst the sun is still shining.

[aussietmrail]

 

Quote

With this model of SEEP motor there's just the one switch available but as you'll probably already have read, I haven't found them to be all that reliable. There's a slightly cheaper version of the SEEP without a switch so perhaps that might be the better option and then look for an alternative means of switch for the signals?

Hi Mick, those seep motors wouldn't be any good outside on a outdoor layout then, half my layout is in under the pergola, I will use the there and plan to use a SPST slide switch for th signals, they are pretty cheap to buy

Nice to see you have started back on the last section of your layout constructing the big curved viaduct, good you have those brick laying skills .

Do you have a flu season over there , we do in down under, being a bad season, we even had the flu needle and right a the end of winter thanks to a carer my son caught the flu off him and now is in hospital, he is improving every day now and the docs say another week in hospital.

18,000 Queenslanders affected with this new flu strain called the Brisbane Flu, I hope I don't get any worse and end up in hospital.

Being disabled didn't help either and he can't eat solid food has special drinks, the doc said he has to drink four a day and he will go off the last drip line and sit in his wheel chair all day and have a shower without the air of a ventilator, he is 24/7 care. And now my wife is getting a sore throat again, taking her to our doc tomorrow and lucky for me it went straight to my chest, I suffer with asthma, she can check me out as well.

Cricket is on will watch it for a short while to see how Steve Smith goes being Australia's new captain, you must be about 12houyrs behind us ,

not playing yet 10.50pm my time

Looking forward to seeing more pics from the construction gangs hard days work

Tony from down under

[mick]

I wasn't able to do anything more with the viaduct yesterday but I've been out this morning and managed to get a little further on. The first thing I set out to do was to check the level of the viaduct against the track level inside the shed. I've never really marked anything out with any degree of accuracy until now but I knew from a quick laser spirit level check across the two viaducts that there was no real problems. I started at what will become the rear exit from the shed and began marking the level around and along the bottom of the garden perimeter fence. Once I was opposite the curve of the new viaduct extension I used the laser level across to one of the marked fence posts and was pleased to discover there was less than one inch difference between the two. I don't see that causing any problems as I have sufficient length to ease that out between the viaduct and the rear of the shed. I know that's not the correct way to work but there you go - that's the way I do things.

Next I set about laying a few more concrete blocks to support the viaduct. Where it begins to curve I was going to cut the blocks in half so that the curve was smoother on the exterior face but as I intend to cover it with a raised border there seemed little point in doing so. The curve itself is gentle enough anyway. Here's where I'm at right now:

I doubt very much that any viaduct would ever have been built this way as there is a slight double curve, resembling the letter 'S' along its length. I never intended the viaduct to be this long and so I had already introduced a gentle curve rather than building it entirely straight but in order to extend the number of arches and bring it round towards the perimeter fence I've had to curve it back inwards again. It's far too late to do anything about it but I can live with that.

I'll be delighted once this part of the layout is completed - not least for the fact that I'll then be able to tidy up this end of the garden and clear out all the unwanted rocks and other rubbish.

[mick]

I'm back with just a bit more progress to report.

I've made a start cutting out the arch shapes in the aerated blocks in the same manner that I've done the two previous lots. I'm surprised that I've not yet broken a single block during the cutting process. I'm happy once the cut blocks are cemented in place next to each other but I do sense they are a bit fragile until that time. Not to worry, even if I do manage to snap one they are cheap enough to buy and the odd broken one isn't going to break the bank. Awaiting cementing in place, here's the first five which amounts to my entire stock right now. The slightly darker block is one that's been sitting in the garden for a couple of years whereas the others are newly purchased. I need to go out tomorrow and get some more.

I mentioned in my last post about the double curve or 'S' shape that I've had to introduce into the length of the viaduct due to the fact that I didn't originally plan for it to become this long. The following photo might explain better what I mean - the viaduct curving away towards the side fencing.

Admittedly the above photo makes it appear more severe than it actually is because the following photo shows it from the opposite angle:

And the next photo shows a view along the top of the viaduct where the curve appears almost non-existent.

I don't see any reason now why I can't get this finished pretty quickly. I had just about resigned myself to it being a job for early next Spring but right now I'm even thinking about constructing the boards along the bottom fence and around to the shed too. You'll have to wait and see how that turns out.

[roddy]

You were saying about the double curve on a real viaduct. Well it is said that there is a prototype for everything so I'm sure if we look hard enough, we shall find one.

[mick]

Not as much done today as I had hoped but after a few full days there comes a time when you feel ready for a rest and today was that day. I did however, manage to get the next set of arches cemented in place before fatigue set in.

Once the whole lot is completely dry and solid I'll use the rasp to create the circular top arch outlines. The arches always look strange until that is carried out but it quickly transforms the entire structure. The fiddly bits are the parapet walls as they involve a lot of cutting. Only another 7 feet of viaduct to go now - just 8 more arches - and that should take me round to the fence at the bottom of the garden.

I was curious to see how much additional running length this section of viaduct had added to the layout and after measuring it at seven feet I decided to measure the whole layout as I couldn't remember approximately how long the full circuit would eventually be. To date I have added a total of just 88 feet of track base - (it certainly feels like a lot more) - and there's another 47 feet still to construct. That should give me a total run of 135 feet ( a scale 1.94 miles). How does that compare to my previous layout? Well looking back I find that the Selby Garden Railway was approximately 130 feet (a scale 1.87 miles) so they're pretty much the same.

[IanR]

Great to see so much progress on the outdoor section, that full circuit looks like it could be here sooner than we thought... looking forward to it. ☺

[mick]

 

IanR said:

Great to see so much progress on the outdoor section, that full circuit looks like it could be here sooner than we thought...

I'd like to think so Ian. If I can get the viaduct section finished in the not too distant future then I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get on with the remaining part along the bottom of the garden even if the weather turns a bit colder. I'll try to concentrate on getting track down and leave the landscaping and so on until later.

How are the coal hoppers coming along?

[mick]

Up until these past few days I cannot recall when I last worked on the viaduct - we must be talking well over a year. Anyway, no matter how long it's been waiting to get completed - it's taken me a whole FOUR DAYS to finally get it done!

Of course there's still all the finishing touches to do, the arches to round off, the parapet walls to add, but the main structure is now in place and this is how it looks from adjacent to the two girder bridges looking down to the bottom of the garden:

The next thing to do will be to build a short removable section that will connect the end of the viaduct to the elevated boards that will run along the bottom fence. I need to be able to access the border behind the viaduct and into the corner of the garden. I certainly don't want to risk climbing over the viaduct. The removable section can remain in place until access is required, so it won't have to be connected every time I decide to run anything - only disconnected when I need access.

The finished viaduct now comprises 32 arches as well as the 2 girder bridges and it's certainly a substantial structure. This view from the bottom of the garden is my favourite so far, really looks impressive, but I'm sure there'll be many more photos in the future. I can't wait to see a train running over this.

[traingeekboy]

That looks like a lot of work. Very much a one of a kind structure. You've really pushed the envelope on this one Mick.

[aussietmrail]

Hi Mick, WOW, 32 arches is the amount the same on the famous Dales curved arch bridge, not far to go now what you say, awesome and have to agree with Griff, I have to get going on mine, doing some work today.

Can't wait to see the voodoo on the first test train running on the whole circuit, how about sending some of that energy my way.

Tony from down under.

[mick]

We've had overnight rain but I'd taken the precaution of covering the newly laid blocks with a tarpaulin so I'm expecting everything to be okay when I remove it later. Fingers crossed...!

Yes, it's been a lot of work Griff but in a way that's the easy part. The time consuming bits come next with the shaping of the arches and the cutting of all the thin slices required for the parapet walls. At the moment it all looks a bit 'angular' in the photos but once the top walls are in place they'll add definition to the curve. The blocks that I've cemented end-on after every 8 arches to add additional support to the whole structure also need final shaping as currently they're too prominent at the top.

I don't really have any spare energy to send your way Tony - it's taken all I had in reserve to get this far - but it doesn't take energy alone. I've sat for many days staring out of the window and down the garden to the viaduct when the weather's been ideal for getting on with it, but I just didn't have the enthusiasm to make a start. It's often good to take a break from things, in fact I think we need to break away at times and do something else until we get the incentive to have another go. Model railways have always been in my blood - it's one of those very few interests that never fades with me - so I knew it would only be a matter of time before I'd be laying blocks again. Having said that, I hope I've now seen the last of those pesky blocks, the sand, the ballast and the cement!

[aussietmrail]

Thanks Mick you have sent me some of your energy, I made a start yesterday on my layout .

Had some issues with my TGV locos on the module coming off the curve track was derailing on the module track joins, have redesigned those modules heading into the station complex with the design of my main station building , six terminus platforms involved, freelance Sydney Central station design., in my post.

Is those blocks you are using soft enough to nail track to, we have something close to what you are using, handy to have brick laying skills as well, doing a great job will look awesome when finely finished and the loco running on it.

I need some advice on what type of kadee to use on those your village coaches, having problems with some of them hooking up to different Hornby rolling stock, the plan is to body mount the kadees. Doing away with the Hornby couplers on the Duel powered tender drive tenders with a permanent draw bar to get them closer together as well , Flying Scot, can pull 16 passenger cars, 11 with ease up a grade. Will use the NEM type Kadee box.

Keep the good work up, love the pics.

Tony from down under

[mick]

 

aussietmrail said:

....Is those blocks you are using soft enough to nail track to...

Yes, they accept track pins quite easily but they don't grip the pins and can easily pull out again. Having said that, I've not had a single problem so far with any track laid on them having moved or lifted.

I don't use Kadee couplings Tony so I'm unable to offer any advice. There's an article on them in one of the current issues of one of the railway modelling magazines but I've not read it through yet.

[mick]

I'm not sure how many I will need but I've started cutting a number of thin slices from the off-cuts of aerated blocks that were removed during the initial cutting of the piers. I will be using these to form the parapet walls along the top of the viaduct. I've remarked previously about the exterior grip-fill adhesive that I've used to fix the previous walls in place and how it softens slightly when it gets moist. Well, I'll probably use something similar again because whilst it does flex a little after rain, I wonder if it doesn't also help to protect the fragile wall pieces by allowing them to flex if ever they are knocked?

I've also tried to give some thought as to how to finish the area immediately in front of the viaduct but so far I've drawn a blank. I sat there gazing whilst drinking a cup of coffee and later made another cup of coffee but all to no avail. Maybe tomorrow will prove a more uplifting day? I must have clear access to the viaduct for maintenance and more especially track cleaning. I'd like to be able to cover the area around the base of the piers with gravel so that means I need a border along each side of the concrete blocks to hold the gravel (or failing that, a narrow planted border) in place. I have to decide how to landscape the garden borders from near the girder bridges right down along the new viaduct section where the ground slopes away to the bottom of the garden. I don't know whether I'll need to build a wall to create a step or whether I can simply slope the ground. I can't think for the life of me at the moment but I'm sure something will come eventually.