essex2visuvesi Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Trying to decide what pointwork to go with outside Im planning on using Peco code 100 track (more durable I think than finescale) but cannot decide on the pointwork.... should I go with live or insulfrog points? I can see the advantages and disadvantages of using both types so would like to gauge what others use and why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traingeekboy Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 I would use insulfrog mainly because the electrified ones are a lot of work to get working right. Or at least on the mains where trains are running fast anyway, if you plan on having a shunting area I might try electric there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanR Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I have used code 100 insulfrog for simplicity in wiring. I have however added extra wires so that I'm not relying on the point blades for electrical contact. Most modern locomotive models, especially diesels, have multiple wheel power collection and don't have the problem of stalling on dead frogs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I've got both. All future points will be insulfrog and wired as Ian recommends. When it's outdoor it needs to be robust, with the least number of moving parts that can go wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 I'd have to agree with IanR and opt for Insulfrog points with the addition of bonding wires. I used to be put off insulfrog points because of the large 'plastic' gap between the adjacent rails at the frog 'v' which always looked unsightly and unrealistic. That's a thing of the past now I'm happy to say, and the isolation gap is very small indeed - barely noticeable. It's best to keep everything as simple as possible when operating outdoors. There's not the same opportunity for concealing wiring as there is with an indoor model and fewer places where they can be safely routed. I really don't think insulfrog will cause you any problems and they'll certainly make things a whole lot easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleanerg6e Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I've used a mixture of both insulfrog and electrofrog. I have to say that the modern electrofrog points are very easy to wire and I've had no trouble with them. I too have used Peco code 100 track although code 75 is possible outdoors as it's only the rail height that differs in the codes. If you want to run older locos with deep flanges on their wheels then code 100 is the only one to use because the flanges will ride on the sleepers of code 75. I know of many indoor modelers here who use modern locos but will only use code 100 track as code 75 is harder to get. If you want to make life REALLY difficult for yourself you could always build your own track and points from the C&L range but the amount of track that is usually on garden railways means that that you will be 6' under before it's finished. So take your pick. I must eat my words as my railway is now all Insulfrog as I was starting to have big problems with the station with all Electrofrog points. The two main station were built track work wise one with Insulfrogs and the other with Electrofrogs. In the end the Insulfrogs one the day. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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