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Kirkfield & Warmthorpe Railway


IanR
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Thanks for link Ian. I remember Craftsmen Models from years ago and I had since forgotten about them so thanks for the reminder. I will have to get hold of the DMU pipes etc for the front ends of the 108s but I also have a Hornby 101 which looks completely bare at the front and they do a detail kit for that model. The 101 has a fitted sound chip but it's very quiet and I've never had it out round the garden yet. That's another chip that I intend sending away for a reblow when I eventually get round to it.

Hornby based or not, I really do like that signal box. Have you had any problems with using plasticard outdoors? Any special adhesive required?

Aquarium plants! I'd not thought of that one, but there again, I'm rarely brimful of innovative ideas or worthwhile suggestions. I imagine that it's the shorter types that are most useful around the layout? Don't suppose the taller ones would want to stand upright when not submerged in water? One things for sure, they should all be okay in the rain.

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Yes Craftsman do a detailing kit for the 101 but I think it was intended for the older Lima model. You'll find a lot of bits that you don't need as I found out to my cost! I'd just get the vac pipes and jumpers if I were you. Oh and some dummy screw couplings.

Best aquarium plants I got are plastic moss balls. They come as a large ball and you just cut or pull them apart to your own requirements.

I haven't had any problems with the plasticard outdoors, it is bonded with Liquid Poly.

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I absolutely love these pics, especially the snow ones!!

I'm looking into building a oo garden railway and this thread has given me so many ideas & inspiration. Have a question though. How did you attach those brackets to the fence post? What type & size fixings?

I didn't think you can drill those? We have the same and this would make my life so much easier if I could do the same.

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Hello and welcome,

Glad you like the photos!

The greenhouse shelf brackets are fixed to the posts with ordinary 7mm (brown) masonry plugs and no.12 stainless steel woodscrews. I used an SDS drill on them with no problems. I admit that I was a little afraid that they might crack! The posts will have metal reinforcing rods in them but if you drill in the middle you shouldn't have a problem.

Brackets are available from http://www.twowests.co.uk/TwoWestsSite/product/SBWM.htm

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  • 1 month later...

Just been looking through the memory card from my camera because I was sure I'd taken similar photos of the accumulation of snow around my layout but I must be mistaken as all I can find are photos of my dog, a West Highland Terrier, almost neck deep in the stuff.

With the snow finally cleared I haven't had chance to take a good look around the track yet for any damage but a quick glance doesn't raise any concerns. How has yours stood up to the snow and ice and have the areas of ballasted track made it through unscathed?

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  • 1 month later...

G'day IanR I really like that weathered 04. Did you know that we had 13 ROD's here in New South Wales. Some said that Bachmann should do an Australian ROD.

If they did it would have to be HO scale with a few detail difference. Fluted buffer barrels on loco and tender. Round buffer heads with a small central hole on loco and tender. An original wheel smoke box door handle. Whistle moved to top front centre of cab roof. Very small headlight on front buffer beam with battery box on drivers side in front of smoke box saddle. A Westinghouse air compressor bracket on right side of smoke box. Engines were right hand drive. A small two digit number plate affixed to sides of cab GWR style.

cleanerg6e.

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G'day Ian, hope you don't mind if I give you some info on the ROD's that made it here. First of all the ROD's worked on a private colliery railway owned by a Mr John Brown a mining magnate. The locos entered service from 1926 onwards and the last of his purchase of ROD's entered service in 1932. A lot of his engines came from the UK and the first three ROD's took over from the ill fated Mersey Rly 0-6-4 tanks. His ROD's were numbered 12 - 24. A non-interchangeability of parts became apparent within the class. North British, Great Central and Kitson were the triad of builders that provided that embarrassment. No.18 became a spare parts engine from 1937 onwards. All locos were superheated when originally delivered but became saturated as the superheater elements wore out. 3 were later resuperheated in an effort to improve performance. No. 24 was the last ROD in service and dropped it's fire for the last time in June 28 1973. No.s 20,21 and 24 are preserved. None are operational or ever likely to be.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Ian

Thank you for your pics of the 'outdoor' railway. Having just gently demolished my layout in a spare room due to having to duck under the track crossing the doorway I looked for garden railways and found Mick's Selby Garden Railway. I was unsure about the 00 scale, but I now have no reservations on the scale for my reallocated layout.

Having been retired a couple of years ago after a working life in road haulage humping and towing I have difficulty bending so I might follow your idea with an outdoor railway along the side of my fish pond about 3/4 ft off the ground

My interest in railways goes back to the Brackenhill Light railway which had cola trains from Hemsworth colliery and before that the Ackworth goods yard in the now 'Lafarge' ashphalt plant

Pleased to see Mick's photo at Casltford of Q6 631451 the most memorable loco seen on the line at the top of our garden

Regards

Eddy

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Hiya Eddy,

Welcome to the forum.

I'm glad that my pics have given you inspiration to go outdoors with your model railway. Hope that you'll keep us informed of the progress.

You must be at Ackworth which is not far away from me.

Your typing error made me smile, 'cola' trains from Hemsworth colliery? I imagined trains of CocaCola tankers!

If I can be of any help please don't be afraid to ask.

Ian.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm in the process of trying to figure out how to install my point motors and have determined that I need to lay one of the point motors parallel to the tracks which will require an angle crank to connect it to the point blades. I've got hold of some GEM Mercontrol angle cranks which seem rather flimsy and wondered if these are what you have used. I've noticed you have angle cranks on some of your points - how have you actualy connected them?

I've made a small hole on the 'pip' of my Peco point and put a 90 degree bend in a short length of wire. I've inserted the wire into the hole and done the same at the angle crank but each time I operate the angle crank the wire at the point end just rides up out of the hole. I've looped the wire at the angle crank so that it doesn't come adrift - do I need to do that at the points too? I think you've made a loop and placed that over the 'pip' on your points if I see it correctly? Just wondered what was the best way.

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Thanks for that Ian. I've just been outside and I've had some success using a solid copper 'earth' wire (I don't have any suitable brass wire at the moment). The thinner steel wire works if it's doubled up and inserted into a length of plastic sleeve from domestic cable. I guess that's why GEM also sell copper tubing :) but at £13 for 6 lengths it seemed a bit expensive. At least now I know it does work and its reassuring to learn that you've done more or less the same as I've been attempting to do. If I can connect it up to the operating wire on the point motor I should be okay.

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Lovely day today, had trains running for the first time since last September. Glad to say everything works fine, no problems with point motors sticking.

Tried 'Lion' on my rake of eight Pullman's and it hauls them smoothly and quietly.

587a47f008cd4_Lion5(1133x557).jpg.eea3db5fdb046024c6635c9547d89e12.jpg

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