chris Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 drmalesis said: The UTP panels in conjunction with a Cab04 sound Ideal. NCE are just about to release Cab06, and i think this would be more "ideal" for you. I won't go into the whys and wherefores but I think you should look into it. I don't use my Cab04p much, my USB interface is hogging the second port, but when my young nephews come round they find it easy to use. It's also a quick and simple second cab when I don't want to bother tuning on the PC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmalesis Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Hi Chris, chris said: NCE are just about to release Cab06, and i think this would be more "ideal" for you. I won't go into the whys and wherefores but I think you should look into it. I'll certainly look into it when the time arrives. Theres a whole raft of work to be done yet, but hopefully it won't be too long... In the meantime I've been researching information on how to install decoders in my Not DCC Ready loco's. Luckily I've managed to find good guides for all of them so I'll be practicing my soldering skills and taking some very deep breaths along with a couple of tranquilisers... Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 It gets tricky when lights are involved, but on the whole the most difficult thing is finding a suitable location for the chip to live. I can be worth looking around for guides. The guide I got from the Bachmann website for their 158 DMU was a nightmare (break the front end off and glue back on later ) while the one on Bromsgrove Models site was simple. If for some reason the chip goes in the wrong way round and forward is reverse, then don't worry, you can re program it's direction as Roy described earlier. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmalesis Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Hi Chris, chris said: It gets tricky when lights are involved, but on the whole the most difficult thing is finding a suitable location for the chip to live. No lights to worry about - so it should be fairly straight forward. chris said: I can be worth looking around for guides. The guide I got from the Bachmann website for their 158 DMU was a nightmare (break the front end off and glue back on later ) while the one on Bromsgrove Models site was simple. I see Ariva Trains Cymru Class 158's at Caersws station every day on my way to work. Although I'm not mad keen about very modern image loco's, the Bachmann 158's do look very nice and are reasonably priced. I'm putting one on my Christmas wish list to give the Minffordd Line a little bit of local flavour. If memory serves, I'm sure I've seen a 00 gauge model of Caersws station for sale somewhere that would look great on the layout - time to wibble on the wobbly web... Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleanerg6e Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 drmalesis said: ...In the meantime I've been researching information on how to install decoders in my Not DCC Ready loco's. Luckily I've managed to find good guides for all of them so I'll be practicing my soldering skills and taking some very deep breaths along with a couple of tranquilisers... Some manufacturers make a DCC decoder tester which means you can see if you have wired the decoder correctly, especially when you locos are NOT DCC ready. I think it's done on the programming track and enables you to move your loco back and forth slightly without applying the full amount of power on your railway. If your decoder is wired up properly on some testers they have a row of green and red lights. Green for ok and red for "no have a look and see if you've wired correctly and that the motor is isolated from the chassis". The testers save you from destroying the decoder by accident. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 The Bachmann 158 is a nice model, let down by its lights: bright yellow round LEDs. I'll replace mine sometime with white tower LEDs, when I'm brave enough to break the front of the driving cabs off! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmalesis Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 cleanerg6e said: Some manufacturers make a DCC decoder tester which means you can see if you have wired the decoder correctly, especially when you locos are NOT DCC ready. I think it's done on the programming track and enables you to move your loco back and forth slightly without applying the full amount of power on your railway. If your decoder is wired up properly on some testers they have a row of green and red lights. Green for ok and red for "no have a look and see if you've wired correctly and that the motor is isolated from the chassis". The testers save you from destroying the decoder by accident. Am I worried - you bet Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleanerg6e Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Hi Duncan, don't be worried, I was terrified of soldering the bonding wires on rail joints in case I burnt a hole through the nickel silver rail. But it had to be done and so I "ad a go". I then wished on my first effort outside that I'd bonded up when the rails were new as I wouldn't have to do SO much scraping of the rail sides in order to get a clean surface for the soldering to work. Congratulations on your NCE Power Cab purchase. You have a good DCC system at a starter price and if you wish to upgrade in the future you won't have to dispose of it on ebay as it's full upgradable to a full system. By the way NCE originally only made components for DCC systems before they started to make full DCC systems of their own. If you find you need in the future things like extra boosters I recommend you buy ONLY NCE boosters. For hardware (like boosters) only buy from the manufacturer you start out with. Although all are NMRA compliant don't buy say a Hornby DCC booster to work off a NCE power cab. It might work and it might not. I think it's best to play safe. As for software like decoders, as long as they're NMRA compliant use whatever suits you. But above all HAVE FUN AND ENJOY. Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmalesis Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 cleanerg6e said: But above all HAVE FUN AND ENJOY. Thanks Roy, I certainly will ... Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmalesis Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 Well the weather forcast looks fairly reasonable for tomorrow and Friday, and after working all weekend and the Bank Holiday I've got a day off. Me thinks it's time to make a start clearing the Minffordd Line. Just have to make sure I don't have to many down the Wynnstay Arms tonight. Of course I'll take some piccies of the progress... Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 Looking forward to the piccies Duncan. It'll be good to see the area cleared to better gauge what you've got to work with but it does look like it's going to be hard work.... Anyway, I'm sure the Wynnstay Arms will come to your rescue should it be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Duncan, I've been thinking about your need for mains power across the other side of the road. If all you are planning on using is your PowerCab system then you may be able to make use of a Power Pack. Plenty of companies make them but here's one from Duracell http://www.duracellpower.com/backup-power/power-packs/powerpack-450.aspx My guess is that under normal running conditions the PowerCab will be drawing about 30watts (I can measure it if you'd like) so a PowerPack would keep you running for hours, even days. I use a computer battery backup power pack in my shed. It's not really designed for the role, but it does give me power when I can't be bothered to run an extension lead out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmalesis Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 chris said: I've been thinking about your need for mains power across the other side of the road. If all you are planning on using is your PowerCab system then you may be able to make use of a Power Pack. Plenty of companies make them but here's one from Duracell Blimey Chris, great minds think alike. I've been mulling over several ideas of getting power over the road today whilst clearing the jungle, and although a powerpack didn't occur to me, a petrol generator did. But the powerpack is a much simpler, cheaper and less noisy alternative. If you can measure the power draw of the PowerCab that would be great. Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmalesis Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Hi Everyone, Well we've been busy today and made a start clearing the jungle. It wasn't as bad as I thought, but the ground ivy is a devil of a job to get rid of, and the brambles and thistles needed to be dug out. I'm pleased with the progress so far and have cleared an area about 5 feet wide and 20ft long. The pile of ivy, brambles and other weeds however is much bigger. The image below was taken from the anticipated start of the track, looking in the direction of the outward journey. By the way, the Springer is Ben - a complete nutter. Never rests, just wants to play all day, no matter what you want to do... The the pink gardening gloves are most definately not mine. Same again, but a slightly different perspective. Looking back from the furthest point reached to the anticipated start of the line. The spot I'm standing on is also the highest point that the track will run over, and will therefore have the lowest supports required to keep the track off the ground. I anticipate about 10 - 12 inches. This will help to keep the other supporting posts as short as possible where the ground slopes away. I will be taking the car to Dolgellau for a service tomorrow, so that's the morning taken care of. I don't know what I'll manage to get done when I get home, but I'm sure I'll manage something. Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willo Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 looks like the dogs enjoying it aswell duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 drmalesis said: Blimey Chris' date=' great minds think alike. I've been mulling over several ideas of getting power over the road today whilst clearing the jungle, and although a powerpack didn't occur to me, a petrol generator did. But the powerpack is a much simpler, cheaper and less noisy alternative. If you can measure the power draw of the PowerCab that would be great. \ said: I've been thinking about your need for mains power across the other side of the road. If all you are planning on using is your PowerCab system then you may be able to make use of a Power Pack. Plenty of companies make them but here's one from Duracell I've been thinking about taking my power meter out to the shed to investigate how much everything was pulling. I've now got a reason to actually do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 PS Only thought about the Power Pack because there was a poster of one in Maplins. It hadn't occurred to me before that, even though I sort of use one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cleanerg6e Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 Looks like you have nice soil there Duncan and your dog seems very willing to pose for photographs. We'll just have to take you at your word that the pink gloves aren't yours. With that garden implement in the soil and a dog that just want's to play all day, perhaps he's saying to himself "all this preparation for a garden railway?, ahh fork it lets have fun!" Roy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mick Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Good start there Duncan. What a wonderful location for an outdor model railway. And to think I was recently complaining about having to dig over a small area of 6ft by 3ft in my back garden just feet from the house I'll be interested to see what can be done with the Duracell power packs. Is it possible to use them to power the controllers? Sorry, I don't know anything about electronics.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmalesis Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 mick said: Good start there Duncan. What a wonderful location for an outdor model railway. And to think I was recently complaining about having to dig over a small area of 6ft by 3ft in my back garden just feet from the house I'll be interested to see what can be done with the Duracell power packs. Is it possible to use them to power the controllers? Sorry, I don't know anything about electronics.... Hi Mick, The trick with a site like this is not to fight it. Wild plants are virtually impossible to eradicate (not that you should anyway), so you have to learn to get on with them and use them to your advantage. The plot is full of bluebells, wild Foxgloves and a plethora of other pretty wild plants. The troublesome stuff is the ivy, thistles and the brambles, and they took full advantage of the extra light when the old orchard was cleared to take over. These can be got rid of eventually, but you need to keep on top of them. My intention is to keep the immediate path of the track clear, and just to keep the surrounding area managed. A powerpack by the way is effectively a very powerful car battery combined with an inverter. The inverter converts the 12v DC to 240v AC and can provide enough power for a portable TV, or other low consumption electrical items people tend to use in caravans or camper vans that don't have access to a mains hookups. The amount of power they provide depends on the consumption of the device and the capacity of the battery which is measured in amp hours. Typical powerpacks are in the region of 20 - 40 amp hours, and there are calculations available to work out how long you can power a certain device based on its consumption in watts and the amps it draws. Oh - and they're also very handy when you live in areas like this where regular powercuts are a way of life... Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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