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How flat is flat enough?


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One of the things I notice from watching a few Youtube videos and others is how lumpy a lot of outdoor OO railways seem to be. I will post some examples at the end. Some of it could be exagerated by the views and lenses used and the speed trains are being run at.

Now, I am trying to get mine as flat as possible as I don't want trains to look like they are bouncing about the place, I want everything to be as flat as possible. This means that progress on block laying is taking far longer than if I wasn't so bothered. I just thought it would look more real if the trackwork was dead flat.

So the question is, should I be as fastideous over this as I am being or should I worry less and accept more movement of the trains?

Before anybody suggests I'm criticising these layouts or their builders, that isn't the idea. It obviously works and the trains can cope even at speed. I've also seen much worse examples in the past but can't find them right now.
This one, I could tell the track level was going to be out before the blocks were even laid. https://youtu.be/VTMraT76PZw
A bit of a lump over the straight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZchh_OWeHk
One from Daws Heath which could be down to the view along the track https://youtu.be/_RS9AXZ_p5k

 

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23 minutes ago, Clay Mills Junction said:

....So the question is, should I be as fastideous over this as I am being or should I worry less and accept more movement of the trains?

I would do everything you can do to get it as flat and level (and straight) as possible. Every single bump will annoy the hell out of you believe me!

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I guess as much as anything it is a case of once you have established that the trains won't come of you need to decide what level you are happy with. One of the reasons I plan to work in wood is that I imagine maintaining the permanent way and the structures that hold it are going to be an ongoing constant demand and I'm guessing that will be something easier to rectify in wood rather than concrete or blocks - although I have no experience of either to back that up.

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1 hour ago, Loco Hauled said:

One of the reasons I plan to work in wood is that I imagine maintaining the permanent way and the structures that hold it are going to be an ongoing constant demand and I'm guessing that will be something easier to rectify in wood rather than concrete or blocks - although I have no experience of either to back that up.

Concrete blocks, depending on how they are founded, shouldn't move and by their nature can't warp over time. Once down, there should be a good few years before any maintenance is needed.

Wood will need more maintenence but is easier to build with and can be used where concrete block cannot. Like crossing an area with roots sticking through the ground.

Wood will also be better for building above ground level, if you don't want to be kneeling constantly.

 

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I think if I was going to operate 'on the ground' I would definitely go with concrete blocks, but I'm thinking that even though I'm 'only 50', I'm already suffering when working at ground level and so waist height I think would be better for me. I did realise after I posted the above that it was a silly thing to say as you can't use concrete blocks at waist height!! 🤣🤣🤣

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My track has been down for a decade. There are places where the baseboards have turned to paper! Trains run over them fine even though the track is basically unsupported. More of a problem is where the baseboards have sunk. I cannot see with the naked eye that one section of board is lower than the next so the gradient is very small. But some of my trains really struggle on these unintended climbs.

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Without it becoming quite a substantial structure I suppose the only suitable material for a waist level railway is timber when there is no raised bed or wall in the garden that you can build a railway around. Take care with building and treating the wood and you should get a fair number of years out of it but be prepared for maintenance (quite enjoyable) and perhaps eventual replacement (a pain!). Wood does twist and warp and it soon becomes evident when you view trains running.

There is an external grade MDF board now available that is supposed to withstand water/moisture (can't remember the exact claims) that has been mentioned on the forum before which might be worth investigation though I have no idea of the price. Such things don't normally come cheap.

Wherever possible, blocks are by far the most suitable material if time is taken to lay them carefully but I make no claims as to having been that careful with mine.

Whichever material you decide on just make sure that you build it as flat and level as possible (along and across) otherwise you'll be returning to this thread with a greater undertsanding of why it was posted in the first place LOL!

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I've just posted a video on my main garden railway thread. I think what I notice from watching the action camera in a wagon views is that good flat trackbed laying isn't noticeable, but bad track is really noticeable. Though, in my defence, it was just mocked up and will be properly done in the future.

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It wasn't bad at all Barry and action cams exaggerate any slight irregularities with your track but the real railways are like that too. Looking ahead from the cam it all looks pretty straight to me and that view along the track tends to highlight the places where it isn't. Point a camera along any railway line and zoom in and you'll be amazed at what it looks like!

I wouldn't worry too much, you're certainly heading in the right direction.

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