chris

I'd try and fix the rail first, it's already broke so as long as you don't to more damage to the base etc... Pop a flathead screw driver under the rail and leaver it back up. You will probably need to have something pushing the rail down on either side and maybe something under the fulcrum pont of the screw driver, but a few gentle lifts could do the job.

Controlling the points is one thing. But what you really want is route setting. My NCE PowerCab has a macro function. A macro can be programmed perform several commands and their main use is route setting. Macro 1 could be set to change all the points so a train can depart from Colwick Platform 3. The only problem is remembering what each of the macros is assigned to do. With my computer hooked up I don't have to worry about macros, I can set up as many routes as like, give them meaningful names, and all I have to do is click on that name in the list to set all the points in that route. "Colwick Plat 3 Dpt"—Click. All the routes are listed in a table on my computer screen. The routes are also available on my iPod. I can stand next to Colwick station with my 158 DMU sat in Platform 3. I call up the 158 on the iPod, tap the route Colwick Plat 3 Dpt, watch the points change, set the trains direction to Fwd and slide the throttle up. Once the train is clear I tap on Colwick Reset, to get ready for the next arrival, then set the route for arrival at Amblethorpe station or through the shed. Getting this far has taken some time. I've been slow to get motors on points outside and route setting isn't so good if you still have to wander around to finish the job. But I'm basically there now and it's great to be able to hit a button and know that all the points are set correctly, all I have to worry about now is that there isn't already a train sat on the up main in the shed.

It's a year since I wrote "I'll write about that soon." So better late than never. Walking alongside a train controlling it with my iPod is cool, then changing the points on the same device is even cooler and the bonus is that its a lot simpler to change a point using an iPod than it is with my NCE PowerCab. My PowerCab takes 4 or 5 button presses to change a point, which isn't ideal when you are in hurry, or you need to change 3 in quick succession. The system does have macros which can be programmed to set a route, this helps a lot, but there's room for improvement. With my computer system I have more control with a much simpler system. All of the points (turnouts) are programmed into the system and listed in a table. With the table on screen all I have to do is click on a points Thrown/Closed button to switch the point. The table is neat, but not intuitive. A better way is to create a panel to control things. A panel mimics a modern signal box, a graphical track layout is drawn on the screen. There is an Icon for each of the points, this displays which way the point is set. To change the point I click on its icon. To set a route I pass my mouse along the line I want the train to pass and click on any point that isn't set the right way. To throw a point using my iPod (iPhone/iPad) I change to the turnouts view with a swipe of a finger and I'm presented with the list of points. The points are colour coded red or green depending on their thrown/closed state and to change one I tap on it. Very simple.

Most things on here have been talked through. Finding the chat can be hard. Probably best if you switch your bonding questions to here. http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=248''>http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=248'>http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=248 We many add more photos, but we tend to be embarrassed by our attempts at soldering, well I am.

The only issue I has was setting up the JMRI software to work with the USB interface, it was nothing that a bit of googling couldn't sort. I've never played with live steam so I don't know if you can, or would want to put a DCC chip in. If you do then the power requirements would probably be more than the PowerCab's 2amp limit. They do more powerful systems, but the upgrade path from the PowerCab (SB3a) is simple and not expensive. The great thing about my set up is that I had all the computer/wifi/iDevices kit already, so it was very cost effective. just in case I didn't make it clear http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=114' rel="external nofollow">elsewhere... the software is Java based so works on Mac or PC. I started with my MacBook but now have a friends old PC permanently installed in the shed.

Also, have you looked at this thread http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=114''>http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=114'>http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=114

I agree with Mick. You are losing power at every track join. The track-fishplate-track connection isn't great at conducting power and it will soon start behaving like a resistor when placed outdoors. The way round this is the tedious job of soldering wires to every length of rail. This can either be done through bonding, a wire soldered from one rail end to the next bridging round the fishplate, or by soldering a dropper wire to each rail which connects to a continuos "bus" wire from your controller. Up until this summer bonding was the most common way to do this, but suddenly buses have become all the rage. I mainly bond, but do have a bus (don't ask). Unfortunately you appear to be using a lot of short lengths of track which means a lot of joins. My best advice to you would be to bite the bullet and spend £60 on a box of Peco Code 100 flexi and use it to replace your short track lengths. Soldering out side is hard work, soldering track that's been outside is a nightmare. Happy to offer advice on DCC. I've detailed my system with iPhone/iPad control here http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=114''>http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=114'>http://www.oogardenrailway.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=114

Brave DCC choice.

There are preserved railways which are also freight lines. Weardale Railway and Wensleydale Railway both carry freight. Change Worsley Dale to Worsleydale Railway and your hey presto you can run what you like. Still dones't solve your storage problems

I could say plenty on this thread. Virgin played a canny games 15 years ago. They signed a contract with Railtrack for the West Coast Modernisation which would see 140mph running by 2005. Railtrack estimated the cost to them as £2bn. They got it badly wrong. They could deliver the speed improvements, only reaching 125mph, they went gust and Network Rail had to be created. In the end the cost was around £9bn. All this time Virgin had this contact for 140mph running and Network Rail and the Government had to honour it, even though they couldn't. So whenever Virgin weren't getting what they wanted their had would reach for their back pocket and the threat of breach of contract would arise. Virgin Trains were the only franchise that had something over the government which meant that they got what they wanted far more often they should have. Also Virgin have been very cheeky this week citing GNER going bust when they has a considerable influence in that event. About 10 years ago the east coast franchise was up for renewal. It was a two horse race between GNER and Virgin. GNER put across their vision of expanding King Cross services to Lincoln, Nottingham, Sheffield and lots more destinations. Virgin wanted 200mph (or was it 250?) trains and a new high speed line from south of Peterborough to north of York. GNER was awarded a 20 year franchise. Virgin threw their toys out of the pram and went for a judicial review. They were successful and the tender process was restarted. But the tide had changed and so had the rules, now it was a 7 year franchise and the bid that offered the most money won. GNER bid silly amounts an went bust. The same process followed and National Express bid the same amount and had the same result. It's been 10 years of disaster on the East Coast, disaster triggered by Virgin. Still, I'm sad that they are going. They have done a very good job on the West Coast, killing off the airlines on the Manchester-London route and improving journey time and frequency everywhere. Good news for Hornby. Anyone fancy a Pendolino in First livery.

Blimy. Mick's only gone and put a point outside.

Wonderful. Soldering it great when you get the knack. However, I've found that I can easily lose the knack. Keep going Craig, keep going.

In my original posting I said Well it wasn't out in time for my birthday... What odds that they even have it this year?

Looking great Mick. Really really impressive. I'd bond the rails on the viaduct and run the bus wies along the ground out of sight to by pass the viaduct. With a bus feed from both ends the bonds won't be doing much work. Or you could run the bus wires along the back on the viaduct and up your drainage holes. Or run the bus along the ground and use a black wire, solid core for your dropper, you could make them look like drain pipes.

I'm not sure its a rough surface that you are after. I think solder creates an atomical bond between the two surfaces so it's cleanliness you are after. have you practiced on a fresh bit of rail. If nothing else it will build your confidence that you can actually solder things, that's a confidence I often loose when working outdoors. and remember always: Tin RailTin Wire Solder Joint

Oh, I was in London last week and I'll be back on the 21st. If anyone is coming to York then feel free to ask for an invite to Amblethorpe. IanR is going make here one Sunny Sunday.

Great Stuff. The use of the recycled plastic as a baseboard has got a few of us watching with interest. Going forward I'll be asking you questions about expansion and contraction. Looking forward to more progress.

Do your dropper wires need to be that heavy? Each length of rail has its own feed so a dropper will only be feeding one loco a time (unless you doublehead). Your stock is modern so at most you're loco will be pulling 0.5amp so there no problem with power and your droppers are less than 10cm long so voltage drop is insignificant. In door layouts take a belt and braces approach to these things, but there droppers are completely hidden. I think you could go a lot lighter if there is an area where you want to reduce the visual intrusion. I've been using 5 amp fuse wire to bond my joins, they are hardily noticeable and I haven'y had a problem yet.

It most certainly was. Watched Japan V China, we cheered Japan on to an unexpected victory which ensured the GB women made into the semi final.

1. Bradley Wiggins.

Go back from the Olympics yesterday. Had a fabulous time. Keeping it on message, the transport was excellent. We used the Javalin train from St P to the Olympic Park in 7 minutes also used the Docklands Light Railway which had to have drivers to control the doors and departure because of the crowds on the platforms. Computers were still in charge for the rest. Tube and buses also worked great.

They are filming the movement of the USA one and they are going to make a tv show of it. Not sure whether it will be show in the UK.

I don't want to dampen anyone's enthusiasm, but the droppers will still need to be connected to the bus. And in my experience the best way of making that connection is, wait for it, soldering.

Hi, I love my PowerCab. Could leave it there. But... I've detailed my set up in the DCC Automation thread in this section of the forum, give that read to get an idea of what I'm up to. The PowerCab is great because its the perfect starter kit. It's also everything that most people will ever need. The addition of the USB connection (£40) to a computer makes it very easy to expand it up to multiple throttles. If you already have a laptop and a smart phone / iPod Touch / iPad (or your friends have them) this is a very cheap and easy route. I've not had to worry about the amps. I haven't completed my loop yet so I can't leave trains running while I shunt etc. I have had 5 trains moving at once and I wasn't drawing 1.5amps. All my stock it new, older motors may pull more current. The upgrade to the PowerCab is the SB3a. This has 5 amps and costs about £100. I've got a feeling that you could run a system with a SB3a and a USB interface, but that would be jumping in at the deep end. A real show off thing I do when friends come round is to get them to download the free app on their iPhones and then get them to control the train on their phone. They love it. Not sure that any help... Feel free to ask specific questions.

It's a great way of creating a viaduct, simple quick and sturdy. What more do you want. ...if you want to reduce your wastage then how about cutting the blocks into lengths and then arranging them like so.