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chris last won the day on May 24

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  1. I thought about putting sprung points on my tramway, where they are very prototypical. I did a few tests with an old hornby point and didn't get very far. That said, tram wheels can be rather small. As you say, the challenge will be getting the springs loose enough to allow coaches and wagons through. The obvious, yet brave, thing to do is to remove the spring from the point. I say brave because I've tried to put turnout springs back in, and that makes soldering look like an enjoyable afternoon task. Set up a test board and see it you can run a wagon back and forth while adjusting the tension on your springy device.
  2. Dues to the design of the points there isn't a great deal I can do. All the metal bits in the middle are wired together and I don't fancy removing those wires from a very cramped space below the frog. When the switch rails stop conducting from the stock, I'll wire in a frog juicer, I've already soldered a wire in place thinking that they would be needed from the start. I only have one juicer at the mo, so at least I can hold off for now on buying another 3.
  3. The last couple of lengths of track were cut. The dozen or so remaining bonds were soldered up, thankfully in a very light wind. My DCC system was clipped to the end of the track and the first train did trundle along the Paltryville Ridge and Peak. I filmed the occasion and will post it tomorrow. I then got very confused about my electrofrog points. They worked absolutely fine, yet I convinced myself that they shouldn't. I'm so used to having to power the frog I had forgotten how they actually work. I've done some reading online and recognised that it's all OK. I think O-16.5 Narrow Gauge turnouts have a bigger throw on the switch rail, this gives more room for the flange to pass and less chance of a short circuit. They certainly don't have the gaps in the rails that enable the frog to be powered. Not sure how long the point blades with conduct the power for. I'll have to wait and see. Anyway. The loco ran really well. Tomorrows job is to pin down the track.
  4. I had forgotten how long it takes to solder up so many rails. Spent all afternoon on it. Fortunately I’ve many to do all but the last few sat at the kitchen table. Might actually pin down some track this evening.
  5. All the strips of roofing felt are now stuck down. I can't say it has improved the look of the scene so I haven't photographed it. Should be track laying today. Cracking weather, if the wind is low enough, soldering outside may only be a small pain in the arse. I'm interested to see how easy it is to solder the O-16.5 track, its exactly the same Code 100 rail, but the sleepers are further apart so there may be a little more room for the iron.
  6. The bridge and approach road look amazing. I watch your latest YouTube on my TV before I read this post about construction. I spotted all the work you had done and even commented to my wife how impressed I was. Great work.
  7. The only concern is that the platforms may become a water trap if the water drains that way. I have one platform where this is a problem and another two where it isn't. Gently pour some water on it and see where it drains. If you are leaving it out then make sure that the top section of your trunking can't slide along the bottoms section. You may think that there is enough friction, but expansion and contraction with heat will make the top creep. I drill a small hole through the bit where they clip together and stick a track pin in. This ensures that the top can't slip along.
  8. Yesterday I began the process of filling the gaps with earth and stone. Months ago I rescued the stones form a friends driveway before she had it tarmaced. I didn't know if I had enough, which meant it was guess work as to how much earth I'd need to fill with first. We did about 72% of the filling. Getting the point where the final position of the trackbed blocks has yet be decided. This morning I placed some track down and, for fun, popped some coaches on. This turned out to be helpful, it shows me how long my passing loop will have to be, allowing for a loco on the front. Up shot is that I can'y make it any shorter. I'm still uncertain which point to use where. I have two right hand and two Y. I've started thinking through how I can create a connecting line to the Snicketway baseboards. I'm going to use some 18mm ply which should be ridged enough for the 70cm length it will span. For the radius I'm following the track that came with train set, which ensures that it won't be too tight. This afternoon I'm going to have to lower a couple of the ridge blocks by 18mm to allow for the linking track to be able to pass over them while the track stays on the level. Feels like real progress now. Should be sticking down roofing felt and laying track soon.
  9. Tried to avoid the procrastination (beard stroking) phase of development which was looming upon me. So far with my railways I've built baseboards and then laid the track independently. This has meant that I haven't had to have an exact track plan before building the baseboards. With this build I don't have the baseboard so I need to finalise my track plan beforehand. Yesterday I worked through that process; placing, levelling, adjusting and swapping around blocks to enable the track plan I am after. One consideration was to try to keep the track from being below the drip line off the Amblethorpe baseboard. This would have been easy if it was a constant width, but it varies form 40cm to 20cm to 30cm along its length. Locating points away from drips was more important. I still can't figure out how things will work at the house end of the line. A track needs to turn off to allow a connection with the Snicketway baseboards. This requires a 90º turn in around 40cm, which is around 1st radius. This is OK for a narrow gauge, but I'll have to check that my stock is fine with that. Not that there is any set-track for On30. At the shed end the level trackbed creates a significant rise within the landscape. I cut the tops off the blocks at 45º to create a very narrow track bed, a common feature on American railroads. Still work to be done on the trackbed before I can fill the gaps and create the landscape.
  10. Invasion of the Giant Spiders!
  11. Hi David, Are you thinking of running at (or near) ground level or going for a raised baseboard about 1metre off the ground?
  12. chris


    Copy someone else. There's load of photos on here. Find a garden railway you like. Read that topic and do as they do. Thats how I started.
  13. Temporary is a good idea. You will learn so much from building your first phase, you may find that your second build is much improved from your experience. I removed nearly all of my original baseboard after three years and rebuilt it to the higher standard I'd developed. The track was reused.
  14. chris


    About £2000, all in.
  15. I spent an age trying to decide what height to build the raised bed too so I could keep everything level. Then I realised the the bed itself could rise and fall while the trackbed stayed level. I've been cutting blocks in half today. My saw has got rather blunt. I did a test cut with an old circular saw. It worked fine. Job was suddenly a lot easier. Time allowing, I'll start on the trackbed tomorrow.
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