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About george356

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  1. Wow, fame at last! How will you handle the rock star lifestyle, I hope it doesn't spoil you
  2. I like the look of the paint scale half way between the chimney and the handrail. You should be proud of the work you have done on this loco, Mick.
  3. Cor, that looks great!! I am 65 and remember the days of steam very well, and that is EXACTLY how they looked when the mainenance teams, the shed crews and the loco crews themselves realised there was no point spending time cleaning them up as they were going to the cutting torches within a few weeks anyway Top job, Mick.
  4. Top notch, Mick, and great instructions too. Thanks very much, it is inspiring me to a) Buy a load of 16t minerals and b) Get weathering
  5. It's probably the same these days too, Griff. Keep the lid and the vest but add a clipboard and a couple of pencils With that lot who would question you?
  6. If you fancy seeing the stuff you have bought running before you have a layout you can always run an excursion train on mine, Rod
  7. Although you claim not to be an expert on weathering Mick, I am sure that those wagons would stand against anything I have seen offered for sale at shows for silly prices. Any chance of a tutorial, maybe even some video of how you get those effects?
  8. I'd like to see the capacitor that keeps the house "alive" for 5 hours, Chris I think you are within an ace of cracking the problem though, having the DCC Concepts decoder with the wires attached is a big plus. The probable fail point of your experiment will be the diode, probably gone open circuit, as you most certainly will have already figured out.
  9. Most Americans would pronounce it Ch eye chester, with the emphasis on 'eye', but it should be pronounced as Chi chester with both ch's as in chicken. As to how it got its name, it is partly Roman ( the chester part) and partly Saxon (the Chi, a corruption of the mythical Anglo Saxon king of Sussex, Cissa).
  10. What did you try, Chris, to avoid others repeating your experiment (and failing too)? If my memory of electronics is reliable (not always the case these days ), to charge up the cap from 15-18 v AC you will need to rectify the input to DC and have the capacitor as close in operating voltage as possible and be a high value ufarad, as we discussed previously. The discharge path back to the motor is the unknown, IMO. Do you discharge through the decoder or directly to the motor? Hmm................ that is the question. ETA - a little googling has found this - where the poster has found the decoder bridge rectifier and has soldered wires to the pads on the decoder board. He is able to apply 12v to these wires and drive the loco. I think that from this point he needs to use a voltage regulator feeding into a capacitor and he has cracked the problem, what do you think?
  11. Talking of coach lighting I stumbled upon this which I am going to try, maybe using some of the surface mount lighting strips available on the 'bay from handsignalman.
  12. Thanks for that in-depth research and the link to Bromsgrove Models, Chris. I really like the look of the DMU, but 2 decoders? what are Bachmann thinking of? An 8 pin decoder in the motor car with most of its functions unused, and a 6 pin decoder in the trailing car with its motor functions redundant - maybe they have a load of decoders to get rid of at Bachmann I will give this some thought before deciding whether to cancel the pre-order. I would really like the unit, but to have to factor in the cost of an extra 6 pin decoder is an unneccessary expense IMO.
  13. Aye, I have got a Class 101 DMU on pre-order (green with speed whiskers) - no announcement of its release yet though
  14. Lol, once the weather improves I suspect that 'I' will be that suitable friend. I know Rod personally from our shared interest in sports cars and he is more than welcome to run whatever he wants on Cherry Parkway (as he already knows )
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