Riddles

Some years ago I had similar thoughts about using sprung points and looked at possible solutions. The only one I found was to use Fleischmann points (Profi Track I think) which are, or were, non-isolating. The spring mechanism was covered by a metal plate which I think was steel, and fitted under the track. The radius of the curve was very tight as it was obviously intended for a table top "trainset" layout where moisture and outside debris would not be a problem. I think the rail might even have been made of brass. It did not look convincing and of course had HO sleeper spacing. I have no idea what is in the current track range. Perhaps Fleischmann train sets include Roco track components following the merger of the companies. Maybe ThomasI would know.

If you intend buying the Hornby R3697 pack, be aware that the loco described as a Class 57 (57601 Windsor Castle) is actually the Railroad Class 47. A strange decision as they could easily have modelled a genuine Northern Belle Class 47. Northern Belle is now operated by a company associated with West Coast Railways using Class 57salthough when it belonged to Belmond, Direct Rail Service (DRS) provided the traction using Class 47s. If that discrepancy does not trouble you the pack is quite good value if you get it from the right place. It definitely pays to shop around for this item. There have been several Northern Belle sets produced, one of which included steam loco Duchess of Sutherland, with rails and controller. A Northern Belle baggage car is available from Bachmann to Collectors Club members and is modelled on the only surviving BG still operating on NetworkRail

What thickness is the material? I think it is available in 9mm and 12mm. Obviously the thicker it is, the more expensive it becomes. Is it easy to saw and does it hold pins and screws well?

Peco has now announced that they are re-starting limited production. Quote: "In the factory in Beer we have implemented a split shift to help allow us to keep everyone spaced out and safe. It has been an enormous task and initially we don't expect to be at full production capacity, but it is a safe and steady start that we can build on over the coming weeks. The Ratio business in Buckfastleigh is also back to work under expert guidance, which is very good news." To be fair to Hattons, the RRP for a box of SL-100 is £103.75 but there is none in stock anywhere unless you want to pay £123.95 a yard on eBay!!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PECO-SL-100-Flexi-track-Streamline-Code-100-Wooden-sleeper-Flexible-/153785620846

I'm glad to hear you use some TTS decoders. Hornby decoders do tend to get a bad press on RM Web etc. but for the cost, they allow fairly reasonable sound to be fitted on largish collections economically. The majority of my own sound decoders are probably ESU but I do like the Zimo ones, especially when they are fitted with "Stay Alive" capacitors. I love using the brake feature on Function 2 but I don't use all the various lighting capabilities. The slow running with Stay Alive can be amazing, even over dodgy track.

Do you usually fit Zimo or ESU Loksound, or maybe a lesser known brand? I’m guessing you haven’t used any Hornby TTS decoders.

For many years, probably well over 10, Hornby track has been made from an alloy known as nickel silver which does NOT rust although it may tarnish a little. Older Hornby track used steel rails which had one advantage of assisting grip for locomotives fitted with Magnadhesion; no other advantage though. Peco claim that the plastic sleepers of their track contain ultra-violet inhibitors to prevent sunlight making them brittle. I don't know whether the same could be said of Hornby but I am sure they would be good for a few years. The biggest problem of using sectional track is that there will be many joins and fishplates cannot be relied upon to conduct current reliably. Most successful outdoor layouts have most pieces of track soldered to a separate supply wire (or by a short bonding wire to the next piece of track)

Some of the Lima designs are now in the Hornby range, having been fitted with an upgraded motor. Getting inside them generally has stayed the same. Some of the DMUs have a small lug just above the centre of the buffer beam and this needs to be released. Don't know whether this is any help!

If your Lima Class 55 Deltic is still without windows, South Eastern Finecast are still advertising a Flushglaze kit, reference SE07 at only £2.50 + £1 post and packing.

Apparently eBay is trying to take some action. If you see a blatant profiteering offering you should scroll down to "Report this," then choose the subject "gouging". Wikipaedia has a definition of what that means. They have suggested they will not only delete the item but also close the perpetrators account. Time will tell!

The MGR hoppers look very convincing with some great weathering. It seems a bit strange but some guys at the local(ish) Chasewater Railway are trying to preserve a small rake of these. I think they have three at the moment.

I think some people put a piece of clingfilm over the wagon, underneath the dummy load before adding the real stuff, presumably on top of a spreading of PVA. You won't get any loose bits on the top edge of the wagon though which you might wish to depict. I know you like to include all the minute detail!

The road service looks so much better now that you have weathered it. How did you do it

Or a broken down car with an RAC/AA vehicle in attendance. Better to have something which wouldn’t be moving. I suppose a bus would be fine if you added a Bus Stop!

Which is the best possible reason for you to spend the time you are doing, to make it a masterpiece! It really hides the hole through the backscene beautifully.

Agree with all the above Iain. I am in a similar position to you but being a member of a local model railway club gives me the opportunity to place outdated models on sale at the annual exhibition, particularly when an improved version has been announced of something I already own. I am reluctant to sell on eBay although I do use it for purchasing. There are still bargains to be found at Toy and Train Fairs througout the UK although there is a lot of rubbish as well. A list of such swapmeets can be found at https://www.ukmodelshops.co.uk/events/swapmeets

Perhaps it would be a good idea to see what people in Europe are prepared to pay for Fleischmann, Roco, Marklin, Arnold, Electrotren etc. We are really quite lucky.

Mick, you have done so much to show how 00 gauge can work in the garden and perhaps more importantly how it can become part of the landscape so naturally. The difference between the Selby layout and Worsley Dale is marked, even though the first layout was inspirational in its time. Trevor Jones’s Flackwell Heath & Great Wakering, is a similar but larger superb natural railway in the garden. Thanks for keeping the website open and free, all at your own expense. Good to hear your memories of Charlie as well. Enjoy the rest of the festivities and all the best for 2020 and whatever it throws at us.

The code 75 track, with your skilful weathering technique, certainly looks much better than code 100. I should have realised you were using the finer stuff!

Both Peco and Hornby make 670mm straight rigid track (quad straight). I bought some recently for a display case as I do not want the track to be flexing when the locos, etc. are on it. The Peco (ST-204) was the better value at £3.50 a piece with Hornby (R603) being listed at £4.99

They will also include as standard a "stay alive" capacitor which could be especially useful on a garden layout. Something else "big" in OO is to be announced by them tomorrow morning. I have several of their 24ton hoppers and have a Deltic on order. Really must build a layout!🤔

Like Mick, I am waiting to hear how well the set mix takes track pins. I am also wondering how much SBR went into the slurry mix. Congratulations on persevering with construction at this time of year and under such horrible weather conditions (unless your garden enjoys a unique micro-climate!) - It's certainly too cold and damp for me to consider venturing out in Staffordshire.

Quite amazing how all the main stream press have picked up on the article. Looks as though it's even front page on some of the red tops. I hope it boosts Railway Modeller circulation as they deserve the credit.

Yes that does look as if it is a direct easy replacement. Apparently there are two ways of changing from fluorescent to LED, "Plug & Play" and "Retrofit". Doing it one way ditches the ballast unit etc. There is a YouTube video which explains the difference. Its obviously not British but I'm sure the principle is the same.

I should go for an LED replacement (using the same holder). A wiring modification is needed and the starter choke etc. is binned. A professional electrician did mine but it wasn't expensive and the light is much brighter.