Jump to content

Pinkie15

Members
  • Posts

    6
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by Pinkie15

  1. Further questions:

     

    From previous railways I've been used to "thinking" in Hornby track numbers, but everything on this forum, and that I've read, indicates Peco Streamline 100 is better to use.  Are Peco points and crossovers "equivalent" in curvature to Hornby points ?

     

    Website/online resource to plan the layout with - suggestions/recommendations would be most welcome.

  2. Having been okayed by my better half, this is the site where my GR is allowed to be located:

     

    1630853429971521857425.thumb.jpg.4832d83ad797859ab5e3f5311fdf6555.jpg

     

    16308535827222029191795.thumb.jpg.6a2e5a5dbd2c7f53072130ddbe0d759e.jpg

     

    Rough dimensions are 12 x 4 metres

     

    Current thinking is to use decking board for the permanent way, 'paint' with 'cold' bitumen and then a grey coloured roofing felt. Would like to be double tracks, so an up & down line. 

     

    Will raise a bit off ground level with 2x2s in 'Metposts'. 

     

    Would like to get at least one track supported on viaduct/girder bridge across one of the ponds.

     

    My plan is to eventually have a shed where the trampoline is for permanent siting of controllers & rolling stock.

     

    The paths around the ponds aren't in permanent use, so shouldn't need any removable sections. 

     

  3. 11 hours ago, Clay Mills Junction said:

    I really don't know is the answer and I doubt anyone else will. Does it work indoors?

    It has similarities to DCC in that full track voltage at all times and then signals are sent to the decoder on the loco to control. I actually think Zero 1 was a far better user interface than most DCC systems but that is another conversation.
    The big problem with it at the time was the power and signal not reaching the locomotive. Most of the Hornby models just had one side on each bogie picking up  (Two wheels). Todays all wheel pick ups and traction tyre-less drive systems are much better placed for the job, especially outdoors.

    Thanks for the quick response.

     

    The last time I used it, about 10 yrs ago, it was functioning fine in respect of running trains, on an indoor layout, though I didn't get round to getting points/signals wired up before the OH decided we were extending/reflowing our old house and the layout got dismantled/packed away.

     

    I appreciate "proof of the pudding" will be getting this built and then seeing if it will actually work.  Seems from your reply that in theory at least no reason it can't control a garden railway.

     

    I can't recall the specs, but think Z1 put a permanent 18v current through the tracks; I certainly remember getting a buzz when leaning on some live rails when I first used it all those years ago.

  4. Old topic, but (somewhat) relevant to what I was going to post about.

     

    Had Zero 1 (my very unexpected Xmas pressie when it was launched) and added to as my control system last time I ran a model railway (indoors).  Have quite an extensive collection of Z1, including accessory (point/signal) control modules.  Don't have that many locos (10) but all bar one are Z1 chipped.

     

    Now I'm just in planning stage for my garden railway, but expect to be able to have quite long trackbed.  Realise this can't be answered with certainty but can I expect Z1 to be able to function outdoors (for a while at least).

  5. Thanks for having me on board.

     

    Having seen a few OO gauge layouts pop up on my facebook feed recently, I showed them to my missus and lo and behold she agreed with my thoughts/proposal for a garden railway.

     

    More amazingly the kids even think it "might be quite nice".

     

    So Googling "oo gauge garden railway" led me here.

×
×
  • Create New...