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Archie

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Everything posted by Archie

  1. The p9600 is discontinued. There is a power supply that is sold to be paired with the HM6000 but it is less powerful and costs more. With that said the HM6000 seems to already be on sale in some retailers so that cant be a good sign for its success. If you want to see the features I suggest you watch a video on it as it can probably explain all this in a lot more detail.
  2. There is a stop all button which cuts all power Immediately and allows you to change the controls and restart if there is a problem. The range is really good. I have managed to get about 10m away before it cut out. all it needs is (relative) line of sight (eg no walls, but plants it can deal with) and if it disconnects I'm pretty sure the train stops. One thing to take into account is that it uses pwm control of the trains instead of analogue control and so the trains have a slight hum when running at low speeds. Another thing to take into account is that it has very sensitive short circuit detection so it sometimes stops the whole system when traversing a point which can become rather frustrating although it can be fixed with some paint around the frog of the point. Other than that it is quite a good system for the low price (£25 on amazon + £15-25 for the transformer). I have managed to get a discontinued P9600 transformer that is cheaper and has a higher power output for £15 at the model shop. I think there is still a couple shops online that are selling them off as old stock so if you can find one, they are your best bet.
  3. Since last posting I have made considerable progress and have fully completed the fiddle yard: Each road can hold a 5-6 coach long train and the return loop can hold a 12 coach train when not in use. Each track can be isolated individually to allow 5 trains to be operational at any one time. Because each half is separated by a return loop two trains can run at once if I cut the line in half. This also means that I can run trains without having to clean the whole line if I dont want to use half. Something else that's new is the Hornby HM6000 controller. My old H&M controller has started to falter and so I thought Id try something a little different this time. A while ago I created a similar Bluetooth controller with an Arduino but It was quite clunky and so I reverted back to a regular controller. The benefit of the Bluetooth controller outside is that I can move around whilst still being in control and this Hornby one does a pretty good job at it. I can control the trains all the way from inside the house with the controller at the other end of the garden. The inertia control is also a very cool feature that is not gimmicky at all. The other features like the sound are not very good although the horn I find myself sometimes using. We will have to see how it holds up in the long term but from what I can see its rather good for the price (if you exclude the fact that you have to buy the power supply separately). Unfortunately, I feel like it is something we have come to expect with Hornby.
  4. Honestly I think you are better off saving the money and getting regular ply, then seal it with a fence paint and then potentially covering with felt. One of the advantages of felt is that it is able to cover any imperfections or rough edges of the wood; and as Chris said, it looks a little like ballast without having to put in much effort. With this said no method is the be all and end all and you should feel welcome to try any new method you want.
  5. I'm sure the shininess could be a factor, I find the pigeons poo on whatever is underneath the tree branches. Ive found it on the covers that I use to cover the particularly badly effected spots, and also around the grass and flowerbeds so it seems that they dont mind to much.
  6. over the last couple of days I have made even more progress on the railway: I have felted the new board in the corner and relaid the return loop to allow trains to run again. Only after laying the track did I realise that I had bought an electrofrog point instead of an insulating point! It took me a while to figure out what was shorting the system, I will need to pull that out and replace it. after that I have started work on the storage yard boards. These will be removable with hinges with removable pins connecting the sections. I need to figure out a way to secure the tracks at the end of the baseboards at the joining sections, I have seen it done by soldering the track to pcb boards so I will give that a try.
  7. Whilst many have been enjoying running trains in the heat we have been getting, I have lifted the track at the top and started work on the extension to the other flowerbed. First, the track at the top was lifted and the old board cut in half... ... Then the new board went in with a spur to go onto the new boards. The loop track is now second radius at this point and so probably not suitable for some stock but that should not be a problem as the main running lines will be third radius and above. Here you can also see the new point, which has been installed connecting what once was the siding and the loop line. The ply sections are to become a five lane storage yard with return loop for the other half of the railway. This means that both halves of the railway can run separately allowing two trains to run at once.
  8. brass pins are ideal. steel pins rot away however much you protect them and screws are probably too fiddly, although you could give them a go and that area of garden looks great for a railway, its definitely not to small.
  9. Its nice and sunny today again so I may get trains running 2 days in a row, with that said the weights for my 3D printed wagons have arrived so it may be worth trying to finish some of them off. To be fair the Hymek is a loco that I also dont know much about, I have only been looking for one as I think they look quite elegant, especially in green.
  10. Recently I have managed to get a Heljan hymek. Although it was sold as new I have a feeling that it has never been used as the headcodes had not been installed nor cut out and all the detailing and couplings were all in their packs so it seems like a good buy. As the weather has been good I have been able to get it running and I have made a short video.
  11. https://trademarks.ipo.gov.uk/ipo-tmcase/page/Results/1/UK00003742051 Recently this logo has surfaced, potentially as part of the new branding for Great British Railways. I think it would be interesting to see what people think. personally something looks off with how the blue lines up because of how it tries to incorporates the union jack. I wander how it could translate onto a livery or brand, you'd end up with something that looks like an RTC livery if you transpose those colours onto a train. Maybe it will just end up an insignia like the old arrows, we will just have to wait and see.
  12. After a long brake, I've finally got round to ordering the rest or the parts and have finished the first wagon. Admittedly its quite rough but considering the price of around £7 each they dont look too bad. This one is missing a coupling on one end and some underframe detail due to the print failing. In reality the colour is not as bright, its more of a brick orange and standing in the garden it doesnt look too bad behind a class 60 or 37. This one still needs a load after I add the weights.
  13. That was probably a bit misleading, the viaduct itself is going to be 5-10 metres but the whole length is around 15 metres. I included the embankment in the 15m which I was also considering to do on blocks although it may be easier to do it with wood like the rest of the layout, and then fill the void with rubble to build up an embankment. The only issue I have is the amount of space through the flowerbed being significantly thinner than the bed on which the rest of the layout is situated making a realistic embankment hard without filling the whole bed with dirt. A single track viaduct would probably not work as I am using DC and would rather avoid the complicated wiring, it also means the track can't be split into block sections as easily for multiple train running. One option would be to squeeze the parapets as far out as possible and run a length of gauntlet (overlapping) track across the viaduct to keep the tracks separate. But again it would make multiple train running hard, but in that case not impossible. One option, as Roddy said, is to put a wooden track bed over the top of the blocks, and as I only need an extra few centimetres or so it wouldnt look too bad either. Again though, just like the double blocks, it adds an extra layer of complexity to the build.
  14. I had that thought, the only problem I see is keeping the block in the gap level whilst its drying. With that said it may save on costs, doing 2 lines of bricks over 15 metres would start to get costly.
  15. It will most likley be a viaduct type structure from about where the bay tree is as you can see on the pieces of wood that are level with the current track it is much lower than your viaducts but is still too high to just sit on solid blocks or to float in the air. I think I could potentially align the two sides with bolts if it were constructed and then use the hole saw or rasp method to get the curves, or I could try to build another kind of bridge, maybe a girder bridge would be more suitable?
  16. Seeing as your viaduct has stood the test of time, I think its likley the next raised section of my railway will likley use a similar brick block method. The big problem with the design is that I will need twin tracks over a single viaduct and with the blocks seeming to be 10cm wide I dont think Ill be able to get both tracks across with clearance. My question is, do you think it'd be easier to rotate the bocks sideways so the longer sides are abut together or would it be better to double up the blocks. I have found some aerated bocks that are 7.5cm wide so the latter would give a track bed that is 15cm wide which seems more reasonable than 10cm.
  17. Those rusted panels look really effective, I'm sure there must have been some with panels that were worn more than the rest on the wagon. The sponge effect looks very believable aswell, they add some coarser texture thats looks more than just surface rust that tends to be depicted on models.
  18. Each shell takes 14 and a bit hours each so you are pretty much bang on there with the time. for mine I have sanded down every visible side, The prints are very accurate but they all have visible layers because of how the item is created. You can now get resin printers that are priced fairly reasonably that produce models with the same level of detail and quality as a traditional resin model, so around as good as an injection moulded part but I chose a more traditional FDM printer that extrudes plastic filament in layers at it is more versatile. ( the printed items are much stronger and you can print in a wider range of materials and colours). sanding for each one takes around 15-20 minutes, although I go over it in the rough sections after every coat of paint, so the total time is probably closer to 30-40 minutes each.
  19. I've been printing these wagons pretty much constantly for the last week, so I now have 8 bodies, although I have run out of screws to put them together so I can't start sanding and painting the rest until I get all the bits in. I have managed to paint one wagon, its not the smoothest or most even paint job but I think it'll do, although it definatley needs toning down with some weathering.
  20. the idea is to have a couple of rows for coaches and separate rows for the locomotives
  21. I was thinking of a cassette but I dont think it would work too well, the trains have to get up and down the stairs and so a cassette would be unwieldy, and none of my trains are fixed rakes so It would get complicated. Ive made a rough plan to go on a 6x4ft baseboard, the idea is to make it easier to change trains whilst running, bringing the trains downstairs isn't too much of a problem. of course where theres gaps and where parts dont line up I would sue flexitrack.
  22. All the wagon needs is paint couplings (which can be printed I believe) and wheels. I'm honestly surprised how good 3D printers have become, the print quality can be very good for relatively very little setup and cost. I have seen images of the wagons and I believe they have only appeared in network rail yellow as they were only introduced in the late 2000s. I dont think I'm going to paint them yellow for a couple of reasons: They are quite low detail and so I dont think they are distinguishable from an mwa wagon, I think even yellow paint is beyond my skill, theyre going to be out of era anyway so I want to paint them a colour that is more likley to fit in and, I dont have any yellow paint to hand. I'm trying to keep the total cost below 5 pounds so I dont feel like too high a level of accuracy is required. I'm sure there are purists that would cringe at that attitude but I'm just making some stock to look good from afar, I try not to take modelling too seriously as otherwise I'll never be happy with them.
  23. I have printed out the first hopper of a new rake of about 10 that I am going to create. the cost of the plastic of each wagon is less than £1 so there should be a huge saving over the Bachmann model, although they take about 15 hours to print each, and ive already had to redo the bogeys so you pay in time. I'm thinking of painting them red, though I might do a couple in other colours, I still havent decided.
  24. I am hoping to create a removable fiddle yard that attaches at the top loop of the railway to make it easier to run trains. It'll sit on the patio and attach to some tracks off the existing layout. I was wondering what would be the easiest way to line up the baseboard with the spurs off the track?
  25. I got a chance to see the new APT and I have got to say, it looks fantastic. I'm sure it's also very delicate, I'd definatley want it to be on a storage track permanently if I had one.
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