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stevesoar last won the day on November 30 2020

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  1. IPA is good but has anyone tried K2 contact spray? I don't have an outdoor layout but my unheated garage is pretty cold and dank. I have used K2 on DC, DCC and more recently on RC control with track re-charging. I have also used K2 on electrical and electronic circuitry to keep contacts clean. worth a try? Steve
  2. just a follow up, I have reduced the boost voltage from 15 to 12v, and repeated the 10 seconds per lap run. run speed 71 miles duration 1hr 50 mins. distance traveled 130 miles this has made the system more efficient, any thoughts on this?
  3. I have been testing the EDL PP3 li-ion battery 600mAh, tested on a 4.6 yard loop and setting time/lap and running until battery is flat. 10 sec lap (scale speed 71mph) 1hr 20min 94miles range 11 sec lap (scale speed 64mph) 1hr 30min 96miles range 16 sec lap (scale speed 44mph) 2hr 30min 110miles range I have ordered some Poover PP3 batteries 700mAh these should perform better. Test loco is an old Lima Deltic, lots of room to play with.
  4. Hi, as promised here is a rough diagram of my on/off switching circuit. The li-ion charger is a cheap 2 cell (8.4V output) the DPDT switch feeds onto the rails and can switch the polarity, when the top rail (on diagram) is positive then the relay is set and the battery is connected and charges via The schottky diode , The receiver is also powered and active. If the switch is flipped to reverse the polarity, the relay is unset and the battery disconnected, the diode protects the receiver. The loco is now off and no drain on the battery. The relay is a single coil latching typ
  5. Hi, between 1 and 2 hours depending on speed and load. Still in prototype stage, recharge in approx 1.5 hrs.
  6. Hi, Thanks for the interest, it's going to be difficult to explain it without a diagram so I will create one and a description. In the meantime I attach a photo of my proto. The pale, rectangular block on the rhs is the latching relay which selects the run/charging mode. Also on top is my receiver, and on the side the charger circuit and boost circuit to take battery voltage up to running voltage. the orange and black leads on rhs go to the short section of powered track it is these leads connected to a 12V supply via a changeover switch, selects on (charging) or off . T
  7. Hi, just been experimenting with a few ideas on battery charging. I have decided that a powered siding (12V dc) and pick up through the rails suits me best, an onboard buck charger output 8.4 volts to charge an EBL PP3 2cell li-ion battery, a boost circuit raises the voltage to 12v for loco control. I have replaced the loco on/off switch with a small latching relay TQ2-L-5V this is wired to isolate the battery if the rails supply is reversed, a blocking diode protects the buck charger circuit. So the loco is run onto the powered siding and starts to charge, I turn off
  8. The best thing about being retired is no pressure to earn a living. I agree hobbies are to be enjoyed, thanks for the well wishes.
  9. As I said I am retired so this is only a hobby for me which I thought might be of interest. The protocab looks good, thanks for the link.
  10. Hi, I am a retired electronics engineer and I have just finished the design of a radio control for 00 gauge, using a Li-Ion battery I am getting good results, my test track is not powered so that there is no problem with dirty tracks. The charging can be done externally or via the wheel pickups, the loco can be run onto an isolated powered siding. The electronics are very simple, utilises 433Mhz four control button keyfob to select forwards, reverse, accelerate and decelerate. Multiple locos can be run on the same track and reverse loops are a piece of cake. At pres
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