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Clay Mills Junction

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Everything posted by Clay Mills Junction

  1. Thanks Mick, You must have a fair amount of technical competence to get where you are already. I take it you've looked at this http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-66-new/index.htm I have to admit that it does seem very fiddly compared to doing the 158. I didn't use any surface mount LEDs for the 158. Looking at various sources (Youtube) the right hand marker is mostly invisible due to the headlight being much brighter, so is it really necessary. I also wonder if, as Chris points out, the headlamp of the Bachmann model isn't bright enough, especially for garden running. I've k
  2. Thanks Chris, Yes, it has definitely been a learning experience and I do have a number of pipeline projects. I have the other identical 158 that I will hopefully be able to address some of the shortcomings of my first go with. I have a Lima 156 I could also have a go at, I will see. Bachmann will at some point do a Scotrail 158 I hope, Dad can have one of those and these original 158s can be be dedicated to garden running. As it doesn't sound like the class 166 is getting re-tooled any time soon I have one of those to have a go at, I might buy a spare driving car first. The one thing abou
  3. Hi Chris, I think I saw your light improvements on the 158 some time ago and decided to have a go at the same time as DCCing my own. Though I don't have an electronics degree or qualification in any form so it is nowhere near yours in quality. I also used this webside as a guide. I wasn't bothered about day or night, happy with just day lights so that is all it has. It has been in for repair ( re-soldering a lead to a pickup) so I took some photos. Being an early Scotrail 158, it needed the original lighting configuration. It is actually my first go at re-lighting anything so more of
  4. With the track plan I have, the bridge will need to have slight curved sections at either end. Using the above construction, I needed to know just what the limit of the inner and outer overhangs of any stock used would be for a given radius of track and I thought it might be useful to create a spreadsheet to help me. I've transferred it into a google sheet and shared it here just in case it is of use to anyone else. Since I'm not going to run any Steam locos, the only calculations I needed for this were a bit of Pythagoras. I've based the figures on measurements of my longest stock (156, 15
  5. That is what I had guessed. I had a passenger ride in a Type RA once when I was looking to buy my own. Even as a passenger I could tell how direct and sharp they feel with those alu panels, a very impressive motor. I've had my UK turbo for 12 years, can't let it go.
  6. Welcome to the forum Mike. I'm guessing you are an experienced modeller so this is already well thought through. What is behind the name Scoobyra? Regards, Barry.
  7. Welcome to the forum. Those features seem to be a popular in garden railways. Your post is really interesting, especially your method of control. I'm guessing the locomotives are electrically isolated from the track? So that system could possibly run alongside conventional analogue or digital controlled trains in theory. It sounds like you have a lot of experience to bring.
  8. DCC runaways are usually down to the decoders thinking that they are on DC analogue for some reason. Turning off DC (CV29) on your decoders can stop that.
  9. Thank you. As I thought then, an old wives tale that gets repeated. Good to know my 24 pack isn't wasted.
  10. I did wonder whether miniature ball bearing type bearings could be used on rolling stock so they rolled more easily and could bear more weight and therefore be more stable. Then I realised why this has never been taken up before; with such low rolling resistance, the stock would need to be braked and that is far more difficult in this scale. If there were one or two problematic wagons, then it might be a solution if they aren't a whole rake.
  11. Excellent, I've bought a box of SL-102. I have seen comment on forums elsewhere that the concrete sleeper track was less durable outdoors. I couldn't see a reason for this, if anything the light colour should absorb less light and heat. I'm thinking it is probably one of those falsehoods that has passed into conventional wisdom.
  12. Is there any difference in the durability of peco concrete sleeper flexi to that of wooden sleeper when used outside? Thanks, Barry.
  13. I'd avoid the Elite at all costs, my Dad uses one and I find it a hateful system. The Select isn't a fully NMRA compliant system apparently, mostly works but certain things might not, probably only worth it as a walkabout if you already have an Elite.
  14. Looking at one or two other WHL bridges, I can see one where the lower section uses steel panels rather than lattice, so for that I could do by turning the L around and dropping the track bed a few mm. There is the option of painting the angle section black to hide it then tacking on latticework in-front of it in light-blue or red oxide colour. Also, the Loch Awe viaduct has quite wide walkways either side with wooden planking so the flat area either side isn't unrealistic. A finer mesh could be tacked on vertically to make the sides. The only thing I wouldn't be able to do is replicat
  15. Hi Mick, I thought about this as it is very typical of points on the WHL and FNL. When I was up on holiday in Brora a few years ago I did notice that the real points were sprung like that but also quite slow to return like they also had a damper fitted. Anyway, the issue as I see it is the weight of carriages and trucks needs to be enough to overcome the spring and not ride up over the blades and derail. With light plastic rolling stock I think the spring will have to be fairly light but it will also have to be strong enough to keep the point blades in place for trains coming into it
  16. I went to chop back some bushes to liberate a touch more space, unfortunately (or fortunately depending on if you are a twitcher) a blackbird is sitting on an egg in the Bush closest to the house. I seem to disturb her if I'm out working in the garden so I guess that is any thought of spending lots of time out there gone. 😔
  17. It looks like there might be some square perforated sheet or steel mesh that could be cut up for decorative parts but whether it would suffice for the strength I wouldn't know until I had it. I'd considered a purely metal structure but was concerned that nothing between metal and track would create a danger of shorting. Even if what is under the track is just a thin layer of plastic. I suppose a perforated sheet under the track painted in plasti-dip would insulate enough, allow water to drain straight through, insulate it from heat and support the track. That actually sounds like it would wo
  18. One of the things I will have to do is cross a path that is one paving slab wide at an angle of 45 degrees (ish). I think it will work out as just over a metre (3ft). The other thing is that I want this section to be easily removable. Construction wise, I've seen mild steel being used for some gaps. I've bridged a smaller gap between my Dad's indoor baseboards using ply glued between aluminium angle sections (15x15x2mm) and that has been plenty strong enough for the gap (60cm) whilst being light, removable and not having a great depth. For outside I was wondering whether a similar constr
  19. One advantage of a small garden, it is well enough lit that getting dark isn't a barrier to enjoying a model railway in it. 😀 I'm thinking that I'll put a temporary line around two sides for the moment. There seem to be plenty of pallets around the place discarded outside people's houses I've noticed. I could collect a few and use the thicker parts as sleepers to support the Birch plywood boards I already have. Then I can think about how I can build up the other sides properly. Once they are in I can remove the temporary boards and work on building those sides properly.
  20. 30mm from edge to edge of the sleepers. Bear in mind the rolling stock could be up to about 40mm wide though and will overhang more on curved track. A lot more on setrack.
  21. People keep demanding ever more detail and realism. I find the same thing with the Oxford Rail Mk3as, they made a beautiful super-detailed model but they also made a not very robust model. With the lights, on the real railway you wouldn't see train lights from anything but track level and a fairly narrow angle. Helicopter view (normal model rail viewing angle) you wouldn't see the lights at all. So from that point of view it is realistic. I think the point of a model is to entertain though and part of that is having the lights visible, even if that ultimately compromises realism. I've com
  22. Hi Mick, Thanks, if I can contribute any of my existing knowledge in any of the other topics I will do rather than just lurking I've had model trains since I was 3, so I'm not new to things, just to outdoors. Given my house is East Midlands, it isn't the wettest part of the country and the garden is sheltered by fences or walls on all sides. I'm not that keen on standard radius curves, I'd prefer much greater radii and that is only really possible by going outdoors for me. I'm also coming to the conclusion that less can sometimes be more, hence the single line around the garden and I alr
  23. Hi, I have a smallish back garden (about 23'x14' useable) that is mostly grass and is completely level. I don't have anywhere inside I could put up a permanent layout so I was thinking about running a single line around the garden. I'm in the Midlands, not far from the place I've used as a forum name and thought I'd say hi rather than signing up and lurking. I don't want to be the kind of person who asks loads of questions without ever getting serious about doing it as that wastes people's time and I know there are quite a few challenges to building outside. So I thought I'd sign up so I
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