Jump to content

Clay Mills Junction

Members
  • Content Count

    109
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by Clay Mills Junction

  1. I roughly laid some blocks to work out the route up the side and the change in ground level. I also got a load of turf from bee and queue as it was reduced that I am going to lay properly but want to get the blocks figured out first. I also cut the base for the tunnel around the back of the camellia, chopped some of the lower bits of the camillia and confirmed there is more than enough space to get around the back of the main stem of the plant.
  2. With my Dad's Bachmann 47/7, Oxford Rail Mk3a and Bachmann DBSO set I used a pack of Bachmann Cl 411 (I think) drawbars to make it a permanently coupled rake. I found this the best way since the Oxford Mk3 couplings are really weak and can tend to drop when used in push mode. The fixed bar makes it impossible for them to drop. My Dad's does run on setrack though so you can probably get away with a shorter connection. Though I found the Bachmann 47/7 needed a longer coupling to the first coach than between the coaches.
  3. Thanks, I wondered if it helped even out any minor inconsistencies in the block surface. Gorilla glues look to be pretty tough, I was thinking of using them.
  4. Hi Mick, Thanks for replying. I've been out and bought a few aerated blocks to have a play with. Do you need the roofing felt under the track or can it pin or glue directly to the block? Also, what glue have you used for the block and I take it that works OK? Thanks, Barry.
  5. Hi Mick, I was just re-reading your answers above and a couple of things I didn't quite get. Where are the packing blocks and what are they? You've put a layer of roofing felt over the top of the aerated block as the track bed then ballasted on top of that, is that the correct understanding? Thanks, Barry.
  6. I wouldn't have thought a thin layer of cement over fibreglass would add too much to the weight? Certainly less than the weight of getting enough cement etc. to cover chicken wire. I guess whichever means you try is a gamble that it might not work, might be worth trying a few ideas on a small scale before deciding? There are small patch repair fibreglass kits in Halfords.
  7. What about fibreglass (GRP) as the outer? Light weight and weather resistance guaranteed. Doesn't seem too expensive either for DIY.
  8. Very nice. I look forward to seeing more.
  9. 32 TEA or TEB 102t bogie tanker wagons behind a Class 60 is about the longest regular train in the UK. That is 590m long. I've seen longer infrastructure trains but they only ran as specials, like this one at 770m. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvTZMBR28z8 MGR is short for Merry-go-round. They were the answer to keeping Britain's coal fired power stations fed with coal. Each colliery and Power Station had a loop line through the loading / unloading facility so the trains didn't have to reverse and therefore have loco changes. The locos also had a super slow setting that would keep the
  10. I should add plans for control. It will be DCC controlled using a SPROG3 through my laptop running JMRI. I believe I can set up a throttle control on my phone and possibly a second on an old phone. So the Sprog3 and laptop could stay inside the door and just the phones and two wires need to come outdoors.
  11. Hi Mike, I guess that model railways are a minority hobby and garden railways are a minority within the model railway hobby, then smaller scales are a minority of those. As such, there aren't many companies making stuff specifically for small scale garden railways. Add to that, I don't see many of them without an indoor area they run in and out of. That applies as much to DCC as it does to DC. We're in the same boat in that regard being all outdoors, even though I'm going with DCC. My controller (laptop) won't take kindly to getting wet either. We have to make do with adapting indo
  12. Gaugemaster controllers are the business. They say 'For indoor use only', as many electrical items do, because they aren't designed to be weatherproof. It should be able to survive a few spits from a small passing cloud on its own, but if you want to be sure then you could put it in an enclosure to protect it. I'd still have it so you can disconnect it quickly and take it indoors if anything heavier, rain wise, blows in and catches you unaware.
  13. Hi, You can put the power in at the two lines where they come in to the area. That way the only sidings that get power are the ones that the points are set for. The disadvantage of this though is that you rely on the contact of the point blades to transmit the power. If you put a feed to each siding you'll need a switch in each feed to isolate the sidings you aren't using or everything will go. I'd put insulating joiners on the rail being switched off, you don't have to but it saves confusion if you get a mismatch between point setting and control.
  14. Hi, I'm going to use reclaimed pallets and timber for the structure of my temporary section. Though I don't need it to last forever and the top boards will go into the garage for bad weather. But I can at least report back on how it goes. Barry.
  15. Hi Anthony, You can buy a power connecting clip that goes into Hornby track or pair of Peco clips that go in to Peco track but you have to put the wires to them yourself. This method is only really fine for a small 6'x4' or 8'x4' trainset type layout (e.g. Hornby Trakmat). For anything bigger, if you use flexitrack and certainly outdoors, you will need to solder power feeds to the track. What you do is run a thicker 2-core wire or two wires around with the track, this is called a bus. Then you solder smaller "dropper" wires between the bus and the track at intervals. You can't rely on t
  16. Welcome to the forum Mike. Hopefully someone will be along with a better answer than I can give. I guess you could give a local timber merchant a try, they might be able to suggest something equally as solid but cheaper. I'm further down the Trent from you, I don't think there are many members in the Staffs area. Barry.
  17. So I'm guessing the track out on to the loop and the track in from it are at the same side of the shed? You're going to be doing a lot of taking stock on and off of the tracks if that is the case. You may also want to consider some kind of cassette system to make it easy to move trains from one set to the other? That is basically planks of wood with edges that the trains run on to that you can slide around and connect to each track or slide out of the way when not in use.
  18. Hi Anthony, Welcome to the forum. I think you will get good answers here, although the forum can be quiet so answers can be slow in coming, don't give up hope as they do come in the end. Just so I can be clear on your plan, if you can give a bit more detail it may help with the answers. What kind of space do you have in the shed? What layout in the shed are you thinking of? Are the three tracks in and out going to be separate, rather than joining up in the shed to make a continuous circuit? The easiest answer to give you is that tracks are split and joined by points (sometim
  19. Hi Andrew, Thanks for the feedback. I should point out that the area where the terminus is in the plan is a corner of the decking behind where the door opens and is a bit of a wasted area currently, it is also sheltered and in an area it wouldn't get kicked or be in the way. As much as I called it a Station, I was as much thinking of it as a storage / staging area but with something to make it not look like such. I've added a line to bypass the station to make a continuous circuit. My current longest train is a Hornby blue grey HST set (2+4) at a total of 175cm long, it would just fit in
  20. I've split the project into four stages, each stage being a summer. The first stage will be temporary boards along the bottom and right hand sides of the garden. This initial structure won't be intended to last forever or stay out all of the time. I Intend to build it out of reclaimed pallets and other timber I have spare with birch ply tops. The main point of it is to get something running and also to set the height for the permanent tracks to be built in Stage 2. When I get to stages 3 and 4 then the tracks from stage 1 will be removed and permanent structures for the final track plan will
  21. So I think I've settled on a final track plan for my small garden. I deliberately chose to have a smaller garden, I had a big garden before and it was too much work alongside a full time job etc. It is a compromise with a small garden when it comes to curve radius, so I've gone for 40" where I can and 36" where I can't (or metric equivalents). I'd like to have larger radius curves but I think it wouldn't work in this size garden, these are much greater radius than setrack though and enough that I could close couple coaches if I wanted. I have gone for a single track as I like that and
  22. Take a cab ride around Mick's railway from last year https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbcYahEjf3I&t=400s If you were to ask me to guess I would say the tightest curve around the back of the shed was around 6 foot radius. The scenic areas look shallower, maybe 8ft minimum. The shallower the curve the better it looks but the more space it will take out of the garden. What you do really has to be driven by what you have the space for and what obstacles you have in the garden. I went out with a long pole and waved it about to figure what likely radii would work around my garden.
  23. Hi, I've titled this with possible chassis defect as I can't be 100% sure this is a defect as it is not like the other defects widely reported like the Class 47. I will try to get photos but since I've now modified the parts it won't show. So last time I was up at my Dad's I decided to run our Infrastructure 26, since it is actually quite a nice runner and a nice model. Immediately I ran it, there was a regular clonking as it went around the track. I opened it up and discovered the plastic components that the bogie towers hang off had broken at both bogies. Part 38 in the below spares lis
  24. In English, if someone "bites the dust," they have died. To bite the bullet is to make a difficult or unpopular decision and stick with it.
  25. Oops @ the wrong metaphor. Hope you meant "bite the bullet."
×
×
  • Create New...