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Clay Mills Junction

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Everything posted by Clay Mills Junction

  1. Thanks Mick. I'm estimating from videos that the real gap in normal running is probably under 3ft and I'd agree I'm not going to try getting them that close in 4mm even limiting them to the main running line with its minimum 36" radius. The images on Paul Bartlett's site suggest there was a fair gap between them ~3ft but maybe that is with the instanter coupling in the long position. I have discovered on the yellow ones that arrived today that the blue plastic of the chassis is incredibly brittle and will be impossible to alter the buffers so I'm going to test a pair of the others with th
  2. So I converted my first two half wagons to No5 Kadees. As much an experiment using a couple of old Lima grain wagons, one an existing one from my fleet and the other newly acquired just because. I'd seen a video of a very dirty pair of them going off up the Far North Line from Inverness in about 1986 and thought they could be heavily weathered and go in a mixed rake behind 37114. On the newly acquired wagon someone had tried to lower it but made a mess of so I decided to replace the wheelset with a new Bachmann wagon pair. The pin axles are slightly wider on these so I had to hand drill out
  3. I hope everyone had an alright Christmas. Someone mentioned they'd like to see more of my fleet. So while I've been away at my Mum and Dad's I took a few of my trains up (much of my stock lives up there permanently anyway) and put together a video with what I had. I'll do a part two with what is down here when I get a decent day in the garden.
  4. Well we are past the winter solstice, so officially on the way back towards getting back in our gardens. Though if the weather allows I'll do some block laying over Christmas.
  5. Those and the Flangeway ones I have are both designed as decorative for indoor use so probably not of much of a starting point. The Beilhack ploughs are for drifts up to 1.8 metres high so the real heavy drifts would need the ploughs like tender derived ones. Yes. I think you are right, a working one would need to be custom built from metal to force the snow aside and not a detailed replica of a real BR snowplough. That said, the shape of the Flangeways one will probably work if it can be recreated in metal and mounted on something heavy enough. The easiest way to do that would
  6. Do you have a snow plough Mick? I think the Flangeways ploughs are a little light for actually ploughing. It would be fun to have a working plough. Edit: I didn't see your post on my thread. Lol. Maybe a future project for me - Using an old chassis to create a heavy, motored plough. Possibly battery powered since the snow will probably short the track.
  7. So tonight will be the end of work on the tunnel until after new year. Things need to be cleared for Christmas. Might not look like much progress but those supports have been sawed from 12mm birch ply by hand. I used a saw tool on the Dremel to put a groove in the surface then did the rest by hand. The aluminium takes a bit of drilling too, I say that but it actually drills quite easily, it just takes a lot of drill bit swapping. I've managed to get it to all fit with a 5mm drop to the outside of the roof panel to help with water drainage. It will be covered with roofing felt anyway bu
  8. Ha, I didn't think about that. Putting the tunnel away in the garage isn't going to help with the spiders. I may just have to clear webs before a running session. I'll have to think about how I engineer the tunnel ends.
  9. Hello, My condolences on your loss. What you have there is 16mm narrow gauge. That is a scale of 16mm to the foot or roughly 1 to 19. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/16_mm_scale Although it uses the same gauge track as O-scale. If you don't find anything on here (we're mostly OO-scale but some people might have multiple interests) then there are forums that cater for 16mm scale and I've found some links below. https://www.16mm.org.uk/resources/online-groups/the-garden-railway-forum/ https://gardenrails.org/forum/index.php But, if you start by searching "16mm narrow gauge" o
  10. Hi Mick, The point in the tunnel entrance will be sprung if I can make it work. With the blades and spring inside the tunnel they should be protected from the worst of the weather / leaf fall /droppings etc. The radius of the track throught the tunnel is 36" (91mm) so not too bad. Certainly a lot better than sectional track radii. The plan is to find a way of sealing the entrances from slugs and the like, I'm not a fan of slugs. Do you find they climb your aerated block sections much? I'm not afraid of spiders so I'll leave them to deal with anything smaller. Cheers, Barry.
  11. Thanks Tony. That was just done quickly with an analogue controller for the time being. Though I will be using DCC when it is up and running. If we get some better weather (it is just rain front after rain front sweeping over at the moment) I'll do a meet the fleet video once the tunnel section is in place.
  12. So I've managed to get on a bit with the tunnel section around the camellia by working in the utility room. I've got the inner wall in place and some of the aluminium angle for the outer wall. The tunnel mouth on the left is just in there for clearance testing and not fixed. The end structure and how I affix the tunnel mouth will be one of the last things. The roof is just placed on for demonstration. The tunnel is narrow due to space, hence I've made it quite high instead so I can get my hand in easily. The reason there are gaps in the outer alu angle is because there will be hatches to get
  13. Yes, a single piece of track. Outdoors you might not be painting or ballasting the track but the climate and wildlife will conspire to get dirt between the fishplates (joiners - Peco SL-10 if you need the part code) and rails of the track and the metal will oxidise over time. That is why it is recommended to feed each piece of track. It isn't a must though, indoors or out; it is a best practise or recommendation. That said, there is a reason it is recommended. If you don't feed every piece and it stops working later on, how much of a pain will it be to go back and add the extra fee
  14. I'm not sure about sound without going to DCC. The good thing is though that if you buy "DCC Ready" locomotives then they can be converted easily, you just replace the blanking plug with the DCC decoder. Even if you buy "DCC fitted" then the decoder will recognise an analogue current and run anyway. Sound decoders are a big extra cost, I don't have them so others are more expert than I am. Older locomotives are a bit more difficult to convert as you need to hard-wire a decoder in by soldering. DCC has a couple of advantages, track is at full voltage all of the time, track wiring is simp
  15. I'd say the more modern locos (of any type) are better outdoors. Heavier cast chassis and electrical pickups on more wheels than the older models give you more of a chance. For controller, I'm guessing you are doing traditional analogue control rather than the Digital Command and Control (DCC). I like Gaugemaster controllers, the Combi would be a good bet for starting off. As with all controllers, this is better off kept inside if you can.
  16. Welcome to the forum Seabeast. Wow that's a big garden! How flat is your garden or area to use? Even a flat garden probably isn't completely flat. You could be raised a lot at one point and having to tunnel at another. Inclines are possible but undesirable, try to keep them as gentle as possible. Mick covered quite a lot there. At ground level is good: natural scenery, integrates with the garden more easily; but, you have to do everything on the ground, its harder to keep free of detritus like soil and leaves. Raised up gives you a decent working height but it is kind of more like
  17. I did the same with my HAAs. The load would probably be OK with the ones that had the extra bits fitted around the top (HBA?) but not for the standard wagons.
  18. To be honest, the last two months in Britain have been really wet and windy. And now the nights have drawn in its getting too dark to be working outside past about 4:30. We may have wonderfully late summer evenings but we have to pay that back in winter unfortunately.
  19. New Mk3a arrived, couplings at both ends are good and the door steps are all attached. Maybe they've improved quality since the original batches came over. I'm not so impressed by the hunt couplings. They don't have the rigidity of the fixed bars so not as reliable in a faulty Mk3a coupling. Better in the new and fixed ones. We'll see if they stay together OK when I return to my parent's but the magnets don't feel all that strong. I suspect if you got down to a full length West Coast or greater Anglia set with 7 & DVT then they wouldn't be reliable. But we will see.
  20. Yes, sprung points. It is a very practical way of doing things. All of the other points will be in one corner apart from those two. And the mech of the one by the Camillia will be just within the tunnel to protect it from the elements and leaf fall.
  21. That is an impressive bridge Tony and will make a great feature.
  22. Is it possible to re-title this to 'Glen Dollar garden railway' please?
  23. Havering is a Scottish word for talking nonsense. So updates on what is going on in my railway world. I've just got back from a couple of weeks at my parent's so little has happened on my own railways as I've spent evenings fiddling on my Dad's. Doing general maintenance but also laying a bit of new track and starting the base for his new island platform. I talked with my Dad about my garden railway and about a name. He tended to like my favoured suggestion which is Glen Dollar. Named after a park we liked going to when I was little. That park had a railway line next to it with a sem
  24. I'd get the lawnmower with a bigger battery, probably 5ah. That should do front and back lawns but the drill batteries would finish it off if it ran out of charge towards the end. You got me thinking, would one of the saws be a good cutter for aerated blocks. I've already got my evolution saw and an angle grinder with a stone cutting disk but maybe the reciprocating saw might work better. Probably not worth the outlay for the number of blocks to be done.
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