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Clay Mills Junction

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Everything posted by Clay Mills Junction

  1. I think I might copy you on that front as well. I have one broken coupling on one blue grey Mk3a TSO and repair has not gone well. Is it possible to know what materials (Kadee No. plasticard thickness etc) and process you used please?
  2. I can confirm the Evolution saw is worth its weight in awesomeness. Unfortunately the blocks are a bit big for it so the blade guard needs retracted first (fingers in peril) and the blade won't go all of the way through so the final bit needs sawn manually. But getting the cut started with the Evolution means the angle is perfect and the surface is also smooth. I'll start a build thread at the weekend, but, I need a name for the railway. I'm thinking something-glen.
  3. Block gluing rig. Using Aluminium L section to keep everything straight. So I have glued the 4 blocks for the first straight section using Gorilla grab adhesive. The first two blocks were done with the two smooth edges mated and this worked fine. The third block was one rough edge to one smoother and took a bit more glue to fill in all of the gaps. For the third I did the same but wore down the rough surface first to reduce the amount of glue needed. All seem to have stuck well. For the next blocks to be glued I need to chop them at angles so will have to wait until the weekend. I'm kind
  4. You've made me think about expansion in my metal bridge plan but my thoughts might apply here too. I was thinking about how real road bridges cope with expansion. The bridge sits on bearings that allow for the movement and then the surface has expansion joints. Could you split the construction into smaller lengths with the track only secured at a limited number of locations and have a sliding joint at the end of each section? Basically allowing the plastic to expand and contract underneath without affecting the track. Edit 7 hours later : Just so I understand the problem correct
  5. Well they look good with that paint on them Mick. And the double looks fairly generous to accommodate two tracks on a curve so perhaps the single one will be generous enough too.
  6. So my old cordless drill has picked up a nasty smoking habit of late and is perhaps reaching the end of its useful life. It gets a fair bit of use as a drill and as a screwdriver; and probably going to get more use building the railway. Does anyone have any experience to recommend a decent cordless drill please?
  7. I was on top of Holme Moss that day in 2014, never experienced anything like it. I've been chasing them around most of my adult life. lol I swapped chasing trains to chasing bike races. Now I'm a bit like a labrador - I chase everything. The biggest cycle race from the USA is the Amgen Tour of California. I don't think I'm wrong in saying that Amgen is the licence owner for E.P.O. And the owner of Amgen was the owner of the race team that was US Postal Service and then Discovery Channel. i.e. Lance Armstrong's team. Perhaps I'm seeing something there that is more than it is.
  8. Hi, I can't find any dimensions for the tunnel portals on any of the ready-made plastic tunnel mouths. I'm really hoping not to have to make my own, I think ready made plastic will be far more durable outdoors. It looks from laying out the blocks that at one end the tunnel entrance will be on the straight but immediately going to a 36" radius inside the tunnel, there is a little more space to get around the lavender than I planned for. The other end is looking more like it will be on a curve 36" inside the tunnel again but widening from the tunnel mouth but how much I'm not sure. So my
  9. They have NEM pockets so changing the couplings is OK. I've no experience of Kadees in push mode, though they look like they should be better for it. I'm interested in what you find out since a fully fixed rake is awkward.
  10. Which reminds me, I have taken on-board Andrew's suggestion about the temporary becoming permanent and started with the other side of the garden to my original plan. Also partly out of practicality of setting the height from the point above the decking. So the new 1st stage is going to be on the blocks up the side and then along in-front of the back fence. The plywood base of the tunnel is cut so I can set the blocks in place. I'll wait until winter to build the tunnel properly and put a roof on it. I'll set up a journal once I have actually broken ground rather than just laying things out
  11. I roughly laid some blocks to work out the route up the side and the change in ground level. I also got a load of turf from bee and queue as it was reduced that I am going to lay properly but want to get the blocks figured out first. I also cut the base for the tunnel around the back of the camellia, chopped some of the lower bits of the camillia and confirmed there is more than enough space to get around the back of the main stem of the plant.
  12. With my Dad's Bachmann 47/7, Oxford Rail Mk3a and Bachmann DBSO set I used a pack of Bachmann Cl 411 (I think) drawbars to make it a permanently coupled rake. I found this the best way since the Oxford Mk3 couplings are really weak and can tend to drop when used in push mode. The fixed bar makes it impossible for them to drop. My Dad's does run on setrack though so you can probably get away with a shorter connection. Though I found the Bachmann 47/7 needed a longer coupling to the first coach than between the coaches.
  13. Thanks, I wondered if it helped even out any minor inconsistencies in the block surface. Gorilla glues look to be pretty tough, I was thinking of using them.
  14. Hi Mick, Thanks for replying. I've been out and bought a few aerated blocks to have a play with. Do you need the roofing felt under the track or can it pin or glue directly to the block? Also, what glue have you used for the block and I take it that works OK? Thanks, Barry.
  15. Hi Mick, I was just re-reading your answers above and a couple of things I didn't quite get. Where are the packing blocks and what are they? You've put a layer of roofing felt over the top of the aerated block as the track bed then ballasted on top of that, is that the correct understanding? Thanks, Barry.
  16. I wouldn't have thought a thin layer of cement over fibreglass would add too much to the weight? Certainly less than the weight of getting enough cement etc. to cover chicken wire. I guess whichever means you try is a gamble that it might not work, might be worth trying a few ideas on a small scale before deciding? There are small patch repair fibreglass kits in Halfords.
  17. What about fibreglass (GRP) as the outer? Light weight and weather resistance guaranteed. Doesn't seem too expensive either for DIY.
  18. Very nice. I look forward to seeing more.
  19. 32 TEA or TEB 102t bogie tanker wagons behind a Class 60 is about the longest regular train in the UK. That is 590m long. I've seen longer infrastructure trains but they only ran as specials, like this one at 770m. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvTZMBR28z8 MGR is short for Merry-go-round. They were the answer to keeping Britain's coal fired power stations fed with coal. Each colliery and Power Station had a loop line through the loading / unloading facility so the trains didn't have to reverse and therefore have loco changes. The locos also had a super slow setting that would keep the
  20. I should add plans for control. It will be DCC controlled using a SPROG3 through my laptop running JMRI. I believe I can set up a throttle control on my phone and possibly a second on an old phone. So the Sprog3 and laptop could stay inside the door and just the phones and two wires need to come outdoors.
  21. Hi Mike, I guess that model railways are a minority hobby and garden railways are a minority within the model railway hobby, then smaller scales are a minority of those. As such, there aren't many companies making stuff specifically for small scale garden railways. Add to that, I don't see many of them without an indoor area they run in and out of. That applies as much to DCC as it does to DC. We're in the same boat in that regard being all outdoors, even though I'm going with DCC. My controller (laptop) won't take kindly to getting wet either. We have to make do with adapting indo
  22. Gaugemaster controllers are the business. They say 'For indoor use only', as many electrical items do, because they aren't designed to be weatherproof. It should be able to survive a few spits from a small passing cloud on its own, but if you want to be sure then you could put it in an enclosure to protect it. I'd still have it so you can disconnect it quickly and take it indoors if anything heavier, rain wise, blows in and catches you unaware.
  23. Hi, You can put the power in at the two lines where they come in to the area. That way the only sidings that get power are the ones that the points are set for. The disadvantage of this though is that you rely on the contact of the point blades to transmit the power. If you put a feed to each siding you'll need a switch in each feed to isolate the sidings you aren't using or everything will go. I'd put insulating joiners on the rail being switched off, you don't have to but it saves confusion if you get a mismatch between point setting and control.
  24. Hi, I'm going to use reclaimed pallets and timber for the structure of my temporary section. Though I don't need it to last forever and the top boards will go into the garage for bad weather. But I can at least report back on how it goes. Barry.
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