Jump to content

Clay Mills Junction

Members
  • Posts

    307
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    20

Everything posted by Clay Mills Junction

  1. Thanks Archie. The unpowered car is fairly simple then. I should have specified wiring diagrams for both powered and unpowered cars. I'll try to open up my own at some point and take a picture of the PCB if that helps. For DCC you have a common positive (blue) and switched negatives head (white) and tail (yellow) which is reversed at the other end. Somehow that common positive has to go to both sides but the opposite to the switched negative that is on?
  2. My Bachmann Cl150 has a 2-pin connection on the drawbar for both head and tail lights on the dummy car. Do any of the electrical engineers on here have an idea how that is done? I'm guessing that it is a series of diodes so that the polarity reverses depending on the direction. But can anyone work out the wiring diagram for it in the powered and dummy cars please? Seconds question, if I was going to do night/day headlights, interior lighting and central locking lighting on one decoder plus bringing the track pickups from the dummy car back, would I be able to save on interconnection pins in any way using these techniques?
  3. I was thinking, that the difference between most indoor and most outdoor (by no means all though). Most indoor and exhibition layouts I can think of need interest, so people model a station, a depot, sidings or a junction - somewhere there is some operation. Outdoors, gives more opportunity to model the bits in between. Extended stretches of line with no interruptions, just letting a train get on with doing what a train does. The other thing I was thinking about on the back of Mick's comment in Ken's topic was staring me right in the face. I was looking at my Dad's Bachmann calendar with a picture of a Northern 153 and 158 coming into Kirkby Stephen (I guess thats on the Settle line) past a semaphore signal and the signal box. You could almost take that contemporary train out of there, put a BR blue loco with blue grey Mk1 or 2s and it would not look a bit out of place. You could probably put a BR Steam loco on there and it wouldn't look wrong. T get to a point, maybe the simpler things are, the more flexible they are in terms of time period or stock that can be used.
  4. I thought that bridge was removeable so you could get through to a gate?
  5. Some good progress there and good that you have neighbours that will help. You'll soon be at track laying I'm sure. On Mick's point, I think the great thing about garden railways is they don't need to be set at a specific period and that seems far easier to do than on an indoor.
  6. I took the train from Edinburgh to Glasgow last night. Normally, the E-G services are made up of 7 or 8 car (2 sets of) Scotrail class 385s. At the moment they are just 4-cars and crammed at peak times. Standing all of the way. I can't see the connection between a driver shortage or work to rule and the trains being short formed. But maybe someone with better knowledge of the workings can throw some light?
  7. Lol, I do have some Lima in my "secondary" Fleet (old stuff not for YT). The Class 37 has had a CD motor replacement and runs quite well to be honest, still not quietly though. The Lima 156s have yet to have their CD motor conversions.
  8. Hi, Your question on Youtube, that video is unlisted but can be found on near the top of page one of this journal. I'm going to re-make it with all of the wagons and locos stored at Dad's but in my garden.
  9. I've just posted a video on my main garden railway thread. I think what I notice from watching the action camera in a wagon views is that good flat trackbed laying isn't noticeable, but bad track is really noticeable. Though, in my defence, it was just mocked up and will be properly done in the future.
  10. I was hoping to get some video today using my camera wagon. Unfortunately, after trying to charge up the Mobius camera I found it wasn't accepting a charge. Fortunately, replacement cells are not expensive and a bigger one can be fitted 820mAh instead of 520mAh (more than half as big again) costing only £7. In the mean-time I have my other action camera (a Drift2) which is bigger and isn't quite as suited to sitting in the wagon. Why do I have two? One for the front of my bike and one for the back. Yes, it has caught some bad driving and some quite close passes. Neither has been much use since I don't commute since Covid came along, other than on the model railway. I have got some footage so I'll try editing and get a video update for the weekend.
  11. The longest ever extension to the railway happened today, 4.5metres more than yesterday! That is, however, not properly laid and using my indoor test track for 3.5m of straight track. So the track was too lumpy for anything but the Class 20 and some short wagons to run successfully. More of that in the main thread when I can get the Mobius2 camera to work again. The point of this post, I was joined by a Mr Blackbird in the garden who seemed quite intrigued by the class 20 running along on it own. Not sure if he wanted me or the railway out of "his" garden.
  12. I glued the second group of three blocks on to the first group. The first four blocks are perfect. Four to five has a slight lip and five to six is perfect too. I think I was too ambitious getting all six together - should have done two groups of three then put them together as I said I would. It isn't a massive lip. Options are to cut through the glue between four and five and re-glue or file five and six until I get a flat top? In terms of strength, I could lift the six blocks together as they are now. It might be a different story when the arches are cut and the mating surfaces are much smaller. Block 1 is on the right.
  13. Hi, the arches will go with the join on the block at the highest point of the arch. It just makes the join between blocks a little less obvious than having them all the way down to the ground. For that I need to join them first before getting the core-cutter on them. The other, more honest answer is "copying Mick." 🤣
  14. The first three blocks glued by this method. Everything that follows depends on the success of this stage. There are seven blocks, the leftmost I'm not putting an arch in due to its shape. That leaves six blocks with five arches. I'll glue them in two sets of three to make them manageable and do four of the arches. I've got a few ideas for putting them together. Either turning them over on the 12mm ply then sliding them off into position or leaving them upside down and using my supply of massive zip ties to brace them tightly to the ply and lower them into place. Edit: I've been out to check, six do fit on that strip of ply and feels like they are within my lifting capacity so one helper should be enough. I flattened the tops of the first three before gluing and they fitted together much better than the next three, so obviously the filing first is useful.
  15. I had a thought. Why don't I just turn the blocks for the viaduct over onto their top sides onto a flat surface and glue them together like that. Then I can core cut the arches and settle them all in at the right height and level together. Filing any high spots after. That would seem easier than settling in every block to the right height as I glue.
  16. Concrete blocks, depending on how they are founded, shouldn't move and by their nature can't warp over time. Once down, there should be a good few years before any maintenance is needed. Wood will need more maintenence but is easier to build with and can be used where concrete block cannot. Like crossing an area with roots sticking through the ground. Wood will also be better for building above ground level, if you don't want to be kneeling constantly.
  17. One of the things I notice from watching a few Youtube videos and others is how lumpy a lot of outdoor OO railways seem to be. I will post some examples at the end. Some of it could be exagerated by the views and lenses used and the speed trains are being run at. Now, I am trying to get mine as flat as possible as I don't want trains to look like they are bouncing about the place, I want everything to be as flat as possible. This means that progress on block laying is taking far longer than if I wasn't so bothered. I just thought it would look more real if the trackwork was dead flat. So the question is, should I be as fastideous over this as I am being or should I worry less and accept more movement of the trains? Before anybody suggests I'm criticising these layouts or their builders, that isn't the idea. It obviously works and the trains can cope even at speed. I've also seen much worse examples in the past but can't find them right now. This one, I could tell the track level was going to be out before the blocks were even laid. https://youtu.be/VTMraT76PZw A bit of a lump over the straight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZchh_OWeHk One from Daws Heath which could be down to the view along the track https://youtu.be/_RS9AXZ_p5k
  18. Today, another block settled in which isn't a lot but it allows me to get the level for the viaduct in the corner. This block was actually a little more problematic as under the ground there is the remnants of a reinforced concrete washing line pole that slightly sticks up but is too solid to get rid of. Once that was settled, I had found a foot long section of track with one rail quite a bit longer than the other so I used that to counter the offset caused by the curve of the track so I could get another 4' of track to run on. One thing I am noticing is that the replacement Toplite aerated block that I bought recently is much lower quality than the ones I bought previously. There are large holes in them when cut through and some holes appear in the sides. Thankfully it hasn't negatively affected the building. Glad I have enough better blocks for the viaduct that I bought last year though. One thing on the APT video, there seemed to be a dip leaving and entering the sidings and I was going to sort this today. It didn't need sorting, the problem was only that I'd forgotten that I designed the boards to be held in place by a weight over the frame and I'd forgotten to put the weight on for that video.
  19. Is there a difference between having something complex by having multiple running lines (Thinking like Daws Heath with 4 running lines) and something complex through having a lot of operational complexity like an end to end or where trains have to be brought to a stop to allow others to cross? It seems like the guy behind Daws Heath makes multiple running lines work. But then he'd probably find what I am doing too simple. I can't keep track of more than a couple of things at my Dad's either to be honest. Trying to simultaneously be signalman and two drivers. If Dad was more computer savvy I'd have set up JMRI Panel Pro so I could route set and use technology to help.
  20. I shouldn't have, but I was picking up my Dad's class 91, Durham Cathedral in Intercity Swallow and bought myself a VEA in speedlink livery to go along with my now numerous other Speedlink wagons.
  21. It doesn't look like it will take much spring force to keep the free end in the correct alignment. I'm going to call the spring wire that keeps the point straight the "Main spring" and the one to keep the free end of the tie bar in place the "Alignment spring" from now on. The issue I think I will have is the alignment spring is too short and therefore impedes the tie bar movement. I think the alignment spring will have to be a combination of spring and something else attached further up so that the pivot arc is much bigger and therefore doesn't impede the tie-bar movement. However, until I finish the blocks for the inner line of the passing loop I don't actually need the point to work, so I'm going to defer solving this problem until I have to. Mainly because I think I need more materials to solve it.
  22. Variety is the spice of life, as they say. Everyone is different I suppose and will have different wants from a layout. The only thing I'd say to people starting out on a garden railway is to go into it with their eyes open, research first and decide very carefully what they want out of it and how to achieve that. Part of that can be advising on how experienced people use their own garden railway differently to how they envisaged. A general point I thought about on the YouTube thread is that there is as much bad info in some sources as there is good and little to contradict or evaluate the advice. This form of forum has gone out of fashion, but I think it is still the best way of bringing experience together and putting information in a persisting, accessible and discussable format.
×
×
  • Create New...