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Clay Mills Junction

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Everything posted by Clay Mills Junction

  1. Another meet the fleet video. This is the rest of my modern fleet so you can see I don't have a lot. Everything else is old Hornby or Lima and isn't DCC or running very well. Unfortunately one of the Oxford Rail Mk3a couplings broke when I tried to put a Bachmann coupling bar in it to connect it to the blue/grey DBSO so that meant I couldn't include them. I've thought of a different way of repairing them so I'm going to try and fix it before the next running day. The Loksound v5.0 for 37114 arrived today so hopefully the next video will not be silent, though you can hear my next door ne
  2. They look like old Dublo or 3-rail buffers. I've been reading although not responding. Thought I'd respond just so you knew someone was reading. Impressive stuff.
  3. The clocks going forward has brought the opportunity of doing a little each evening after work. So progress is now steady. Since the last update I've used a point intended for elsewhere until my local model shop reopens but that has at least allowed me to cut a few more blocks to shape. I decided not to lay the blocks properly as, on second consideration, I'll be best laying the outer blocks properly first then I'll do the inner. The board that will sit over the decking has moved on, it was just a frame with 12mm birch ply but I have now added the roofing felt cover having found my staple
  4. Thank you for the info there. As I've got just under a 20m run around the garden and the way it is with the bridge I'll have to do a U shape which comes to about 15m, so these figures are useful. Just a small question though, what is an acceptable level of voltage drop at the end of the run? I'm just wondering at what point the next size up listed at Screwfix (4mm sq, 7strand per core) becomes preferrable? Thanks, Barry.
  5. As far as I can make out with droppers, the idea is that they are so short that it doesn't matter. If you are running a bus and droppers to every piece of track, provided the bus comes reasonably close to the track then all the droppers have to do is supply whatever is on that one piece of track. It won't make any significant difference how far your dropper is from the controller or booster provided the bus is sufficient. On an indoor layout where the bus is generally under the track and the droppers are less than 12cm (5") long then 7/0.2 isn't going to be a problem. The times you may want
  6. I don't think I'll be managing that level of detail. But the construction is interesting nonetheless. One of the undecideds is material, that's aluminium which is interesting. Working with such small pieces of metal will be challenging, I'm thinking that welding is the only reliable way in the garden but that has challenges in not warping everything. The detail (rivet plates) are added on plastic. That was one big question for me now answered. Thanks for the link Thomas and I hope you get your bridge and rolling stock.
  7. That looks an awesome bridge, I do like a good bridge, so I hope it arrives with you soon and without further hassle. Do you have a link to the seller? Not that I want to buy one as it sounds far too expensive for me, but I'd like to look at photos to see how it is constructed for when I start welding my own. Regards, Barry.
  8. Schoolboy error. I've been struggling to figure why my rails wouldn't line up. I've been working with a streamline curved RH point where I've used a straight RH point in the track plan. Doh! I'm going to have to order the correct point or wait for the local model shop to reopen. Also a couple of the blocks had moved over winter where I hadn't laid them properly on sand, so doing those before moving on. Progress today, if a little slow.
  9. Thanks Mick. The iphone speakers are 8ohm, but he also supplies them as a double, wired in parallel which is 4ohm. The Loksound v5.0 can cope with anything between 4 and 16ohms. I'll try the double iphone on its own (7mm depth) with the fan out. I'm wondering if I can pick up a spare fan assembly to cut as there is apparently a way to cut it down and retain the fan with minimal support. I've ordered the smaller megabase one as well which would fit in half a fuel tank if I go down that route. That would mean I would only have to take the weight out, cut it in half and leave the switch
  10. Hmm, my decision to buy is looking a little rash in light of what you have said. This may be a case for using distance selling regs to send it back. I wasn't thinking of making substantial modifications to a perfect and very expensive model to fit speakers. Looking on Roads and Rails I think I might try the iphone speaker option first before modifying anything. The speakers aren't that expensive so I can try a few options. If they aren't enough in the garden then they'll do as upgrades for my Dad's standard TTS speakers and I'll have to start cutting.
  11. And for specifics, I've bought a legomanbiffo class 37/0 loksound v.5 decoder. I was thinking of putting the speaker in the fuel tanks. I probably don't want to have to butcher a decent loco too much to get the speaker in. I don't want to spend loads on a speaker but don't want poor sound either and certainly don't want a speaker that risks damaging the decoder, though I don't mind ebay as a source. Thanks, Barry.
  12. Up until now I've never been that great a fan of sound equipped locos. I've always found the sound at exhibitions to be overly tinny and, frankly, annoying. The sound has never lived up to the soundtrack I can add in my head. So why I've just ordered a sound decoder when I could have knocked another hundred off the mortgage instead I don't actually know. I haven't ordered a speaker to go with it though and that is where I need help. What is decent to buy? There isn't a thread on speakers yet so thought this could be a general discussion and recommendation thread.
  13. Do we know what Hornby did to the newer ones other than the NEM pockets for couplings? We've got several old ones (r249) with metal wheels. The plastic wheeled ones with less detail were from trainsets like the 'Midnight freight' set, whereas the boxed individual ones had metal wheels. If replacing the couplings, fitting better buffers and weathering is on the cards anyway, I'm not sure how much difference you'd have between an old and newer Hornby one?
  14. 14.1mm disc wheels were apparently correct, but the models have 12mm 3-hole disc wheels as standard. I've no idea if the 14.1mm wheels will foul on anything without modification and the hoppers will sit a little higher on them. Another way to cure the wobble was to glue one axle on straight, you didn't need to glue both apparently. Bear in mind that this was Hornby's way of getting them around first and second radius curves so any modification might cause unintended consequences.
  15. I used to go up to York in my early teens to the BREL/ABB works on odd occasions. My Dad would send the works Chauffeur to pick me up from the station in a Vauxhall Senator. Don't know how many kids got such red carpet treatment from their parent's employer.
  16. But, my video doorbell is great, I'm thinking of adding a CCTV camera covering the back garden to it for security of the railway.
  17. My garden is going to require some tidying too and I've been here almost seven years. It has been a hard winter. It'll be nice to be able to spend some time in the garden again.
  18. I hope you get them. Lots of places have stopped selling to the EU, including Hornby.
  19. Thanks Mick. I'm estimating from videos that the real gap in normal running is probably under 3ft and I'd agree I'm not going to try getting them that close in 4mm even limiting them to the main running line with its minimum 36" radius. The images on Paul Bartlett's site suggest there was a fair gap between them ~3ft but maybe that is with the instanter coupling in the long position. I have discovered on the yellow ones that arrived today that the blue plastic of the chassis is incredibly brittle and will be impossible to alter the buffers so I'm going to test a pair of the others with th
  20. So I converted my first two half wagons to No5 Kadees. As much an experiment using a couple of old Lima grain wagons, one an existing one from my fleet and the other newly acquired just because. I'd seen a video of a very dirty pair of them going off up the Far North Line from Inverness in about 1986 and thought they could be heavily weathered and go in a mixed rake behind 37114. On the newly acquired wagon someone had tried to lower it but made a mess of so I decided to replace the wheelset with a new Bachmann wagon pair. The pin axles are slightly wider on these so I had to hand drill out
  21. I hope everyone had an alright Christmas. Someone mentioned they'd like to see more of my fleet. So while I've been away at my Mum and Dad's I took a few of my trains up (much of my stock lives up there permanently anyway) and put together a video with what I had. I'll do a part two with what is down here when I get a decent day in the garden.
  22. Well we are past the winter solstice, so officially on the way back towards getting back in our gardens. Though if the weather allows I'll do some block laying over Christmas.
  23. Those and the Flangeway ones I have are both designed as decorative for indoor use so probably not of much of a starting point. The Beilhack ploughs are for drifts up to 1.8 metres high so the real heavy drifts would need the ploughs like tender derived ones. Yes. I think you are right, a working one would need to be custom built from metal to force the snow aside and not a detailed replica of a real BR snowplough. That said, the shape of the Flangeways one will probably work if it can be recreated in metal and mounted on something heavy enough. The easiest way to do that would
  24. Do you have a snow plough Mick? I think the Flangeways ploughs are a little light for actually ploughing. It would be fun to have a working plough. Edit: I didn't see your post on my thread. Lol. Maybe a future project for me - Using an old chassis to create a heavy, motored plough. Possibly battery powered since the snow will probably short the track.
  25. So tonight will be the end of work on the tunnel until after new year. Things need to be cleared for Christmas. Might not look like much progress but those supports have been sawed from 12mm birch ply by hand. I used a saw tool on the Dremel to put a groove in the surface then did the rest by hand. The aluminium takes a bit of drilling too, I say that but it actually drills quite easily, it just takes a lot of drill bit swapping. I've managed to get it to all fit with a 5mm drop to the outside of the roof panel to help with water drainage. It will be covered with roofing felt anyway bu
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