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Clay Mills Junction

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  1. In English, if someone "bites the dust," they have died. To bite the bullet is to make a difficult or unpopular decision and stick with it.
  2. Oops @ the wrong metaphor. Hope you meant "bite the bullet."
  3. I've got a 37114 Dunrobin Castle too, Mick. MMRC isn't far from me I also have a 37 (506 in red stripe) "visiting" from Thornaby. I just liked the livery.
  4. It depends what the actual radii you are using are. If you are using setrack radius curves then best to use setrack track centres. Also depends on rolling stock. 0-6-0s and 4 wheel wagons will probably pass at streamline centres even at setrack radii. The Hornby 800 / Azuma / IET set might be unlikely to pass another 800 set at Streamline spacing below 1200mm radius.
  5. Thanks Mick, You must have a fair amount of technical competence to get where you are already. I take it you've looked at this http://s374444733.websitehome.co.uk/class-66-new/index.htm I have to admit that it does seem very fiddly compared to doing the 158. I didn't use any surface mount LEDs for the 158. Looking at various sources (Youtube) the right hand marker is mostly invisible due to the headlight being much brighter, so is it really necessary. I also wonder if, as Chris points out, the headlamp of the Bachmann model isn't bright enough, especially for garden running. I've kind of worked to the philosophy of 'don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good'. Maybe a warm white LED could be added to that left-hand head light space on the light board with a resistor in series to dim it then a little black paint on the outside to square it off and cover the silver paint of the original marker. OK, slightly in the wrong place but that isn't going to be obvious at more than 2 metres away and would give your triangle of lights. Barry.
  6. Thanks Chris, Yes, it has definitely been a learning experience and I do have a number of pipeline projects. I have the other identical 158 that I will hopefully be able to address some of the shortcomings of my first go with. I have a Lima 156 I could also have a go at, I will see. Bachmann will at some point do a Scotrail 158 I hope, Dad can have one of those and these original 158s can be be dedicated to garden running. As it doesn't sound like the class 166 is getting re-tooled any time soon I have one of those to have a go at, I might buy a spare driving car first. The one thing about the 166 we have is that it hasn't done much other than be displayed, my Dad's last role at ABB (BREL) was managing the 166 build at York works, I mess that one up at my peril.
  7. Hi Chris, I think I saw your light improvements on the 158 some time ago and decided to have a go at the same time as DCCing my own. Though I don't have an electronics degree or qualification in any form so it is nowhere near yours in quality. I also used this webside as a guide. I wasn't bothered about day or night, happy with just day lights so that is all it has. It has been in for repair ( re-soldering a lead to a pickup) so I took some photos. Being an early Scotrail 158, it needed the original lighting configuration. It is actually my first go at re-lighting anything so more of a learning experience than anything else. Some things I am happy with and others need further improvement. Like you did, standard on the left and modified on the right. I'm happy with the intensity and lower light bleed on the tail lights compared with the standard, the power car has a bit more bleed than the trailer (shown) which I think is down to me not being thorough with blacking up the LEDs and also one LED sticking out a bit further - leaving the lighthouse LEDs a fraction recessed seems a little better. On the head lighting, I don't have a massive selection of LEDs so tried to create the rectangular marker light at the outside of the left cluster by cutting down the original yellow LEDs. I then used a warm white lighthouse LED for the headlamp. This has worked OK, the photo makes it look brighter than it is in reality but I'd still like to reduce the intensity further. I think that might be 2kR already from memory, modern LEDs seem much more efficient so need more resistance I guess. When I cut down the lighthouse LED to fit, I used the offcut glued into the night headlamp space as a fake lens to finish it off. The pictures before it goes back to my Dad. I know he was involved with the project at BREL (I think his team costed the bid, I'll have to ask him). He'll be happy to have it back working anyway.
  8. With the track plan I have, the bridge will need to have slight curved sections at either end. Using the above construction, I needed to know just what the limit of the inner and outer overhangs of any stock used would be for a given radius of track and I thought it might be useful to create a spreadsheet to help me. I've transferred it into a google sheet and shared it here just in case it is of use to anyone else. Since I'm not going to run any Steam locos, the only calculations I needed for this were a bit of Pythagoras. I've based the figures on measurements of my longest stock (156, 158s and BR Mk3 and 4 coaches). It wouldn't be too difficult to add a calculator for Steam locomotives if anyone needs it. I also haven't provided any tolerance for body wobble or for the bogies riding up to the outside of the rail which they will do at speed. I'd work to a tolerance of adding 5mm to the outer overhang and 3mm to the inner. It could be used for calculating the track separation of twin track setups too.
  9. That is what I had guessed. I had a passenger ride in a Type RA once when I was looking to buy my own. Even as a passenger I could tell how direct and sharp they feel with those alu panels, a very impressive motor. I've had my UK turbo for 12 years, can't let it go.
  10. Welcome to the forum Mike. I'm guessing you are an experienced modeller so this is already well thought through. What is behind the name Scoobyra? Regards, Barry.
  11. Welcome to the forum. Those features seem to be a popular in garden railways. Your post is really interesting, especially your method of control. I'm guessing the locomotives are electrically isolated from the track? So that system could possibly run alongside conventional analogue or digital controlled trains in theory. It sounds like you have a lot of experience to bring.
  12. DCC runaways are usually down to the decoders thinking that they are on DC analogue for some reason. Turning off DC (CV29) on your decoders can stop that.
  13. Thank you. As I thought then, an old wives tale that gets repeated. Good to know my 24 pack isn't wasted.
  14. I did wonder whether miniature ball bearing type bearings could be used on rolling stock so they rolled more easily and could bear more weight and therefore be more stable. Then I realised why this has never been taken up before; with such low rolling resistance, the stock would need to be braked and that is far more difficult in this scale. If there were one or two problematic wagons, then it might be a solution if they aren't a whole rake.
  15. Excellent, I've bought a box of SL-102. I have seen comment on forums elsewhere that the concrete sleeper track was less durable outdoors. I couldn't see a reason for this, if anything the light colour should absorb less light and heat. I'm thinking it is probably one of those falsehoods that has passed into conventional wisdom.
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