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Clay Mills Junction

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  1. By monetised, I was kind of thinking more about the people trying to make a living from donations rather than the few pence you might make from an advert overlaying at the bottom etc.
  2. That's the trouble with the Internet, any nutter can have a voice. There is some really poor advice out there even from some well established channels. I don't know how a beginner is supposed to tell what is good and what is bad. At least on a forum people will point out the bad advice, like holding down the roofing felt and track with the same pins 🙄 The other thing is established channels get paid by companies to be "influencers" to promote products and so they stop being independent. It is up to people whether they want to pay a channel to get more content, personally I wouldn't. I have an idea for a few videos, if I do them, I certainly won't monetise them.
  3. DCC runaways are usually down to the decoders thinking that they are on DC analogue for some reason. Turning off DC (CV29) on your decoders can stop that.
  4. Thank you. As I thought then, an old wives tale that gets repeated. Good to know my 24 pack isn't wasted.
  5. I did wonder whether miniature ball bearing type bearings could be used on rolling stock so they rolled more easily and could bear more weight and therefore be more stable. Then I realised why this has never been taken up before; with such low rolling resistance, the stock would need to be braked and that is far more difficult in this scale. If there were one or two problematic wagons, then it might be a solution if they aren't a whole rake.
  6. Excellent, I've bought a box of SL-102. I have seen comment on forums elsewhere that the concrete sleeper track was less durable outdoors. I couldn't see a reason for this, if anything the light colour should absorb less light and heat. I'm thinking it is probably one of those falsehoods that has passed into conventional wisdom.
  7. Is there any difference in the durability of peco concrete sleeper flexi to that of wooden sleeper when used outside? Thanks, Barry.
  8. I'd avoid the Elite at all costs, my Dad uses one and I find it a hateful system. The Select isn't a fully NMRA compliant system apparently, mostly works but certain things might not, probably only worth it as a walkabout if you already have an Elite.
  9. Looking at one or two other WHL bridges, I can see one where the lower section uses steel panels rather than lattice, so for that I could do by turning the L around and dropping the track bed a few mm. There is the option of painting the angle section black to hide it then tacking on latticework in-front of it in light-blue or red oxide colour. Also, the Loch Awe viaduct has quite wide walkways either side with wooden planking so the flat area either side isn't unrealistic. A finer mesh could be tacked on vertically to make the sides. The only thing I wouldn't be able to do is replicate the thousands of rivets that these bridges were built with.
  10. Hi Mick, I thought about this as it is very typical of points on the WHL and FNL. When I was up on holiday in Brora a few years ago I did notice that the real points were sprung like that but also quite slow to return like they also had a damper fitted. Anyway, the issue as I see it is the weight of carriages and trucks needs to be enough to overcome the spring and not ride up over the blades and derail. With light plastic rolling stock I think the spring will have to be fairly light but it will also have to be strong enough to keep the point blades in place for trains coming into it from the toe end. The standard spring is meant to keep the switch rails in one of two positions. I don't know how they would need altered to always return to the straight. Perhaps one end needs relocated to the straight edge of the point?
  11. I went to chop back some bushes to liberate a touch more space, unfortunately (or fortunately depending on if you are a twitcher) a blackbird is sitting on an egg in the Bush closest to the house. I seem to disturb her if I'm out working in the garden so I guess that is any thought of spending lots of time out there gone. 😔
  12. It looks like there might be some square perforated sheet or steel mesh that could be cut up for decorative parts but whether it would suffice for the strength I wouldn't know until I had it. I'd considered a purely metal structure but was concerned that nothing between metal and track would create a danger of shorting. Even if what is under the track is just a thin layer of plastic. I suppose a perforated sheet under the track painted in plasti-dip would insulate enough, allow water to drain straight through, insulate it from heat and support the track. That actually sounds like it would work. Even plaster edging strip with some edging might look OK painted up from a distance. I do prefer having some vertical edging to the bridge to prevent expensive models taking a dive onto concrete slab. Some research into what materials are available is my next step I suppose.
  13. One of the things I will have to do is cross a path that is one paving slab wide at an angle of 45 degrees (ish). I think it will work out as just over a metre (3ft). The other thing is that I want this section to be easily removable. Construction wise, I've seen mild steel being used for some gaps. I've bridged a smaller gap between my Dad's indoor baseboards using ply glued between aluminium angle sections (15x15x2mm) and that has been plenty strong enough for the gap (60cm) whilst being light, removable and not having a great depth. For outside I was wondering whether a similar construction but using mild steel angle section of say 20x20x3mm with 18mm ply for the track base would work. Keeping the depth of the bridge deck down would allow for a more realistic bridge to be built up. Thinking something like the Tomatin viaduct or the Loch Awe viaduct. One of the things I've been meaning to learn for years is to weld (I have a 31 year old Rover in the garage waiting on that too) and this is the kind of project that would be easy to learn with. Has this been tried before or am I looking at a non-starter?
  14. One advantage of a small garden, it is well enough lit that getting dark isn't a barrier to enjoying a model railway in it. 😀 I'm thinking that I'll put a temporary line around two sides for the moment. There seem to be plenty of pallets around the place discarded outside people's houses I've noticed. I could collect a few and use the thicker parts as sleepers to support the Birch plywood boards I already have. Then I can think about how I can build up the other sides properly. Once they are in I can remove the temporary boards and work on building those sides properly.
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