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Stese

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Posts posted by Stese

  1. Has anyone used OSB for baseboard building in an outdoor setting ? 

    I'm considering it as I can get it for £9.50 per 2.4mx1.2m sheet.

    Obviously painting it and covering it with felt, and it will be mounted on posts, not at ground level.

    I'd use marine ply but on a restricted budget its difficult to justify.

     

  2. Just a quick update...

    I finally managed to get out and do a survey of the gradient down the garden... At the base of the first treestump at the top end of the garden, a taut string with a hangling level on it, arrives around 5 cm below the top of the fence panel at the bottom end... therefore, I'd have to have a gradient, and I beleive that gradient would be too steep in this gauge.

     

    It's all for naught anyway, as last week we had a note from my landlady. She's moving back from AUS to the UK and wants her property back. I have to move by the middle of october.

    As such, the SHR won't appear in this form, and will likely be renamed, if I get a garden where I can build something else.

  3. Are you planning on putting point motors on? if so, using a switch, you can liven the point blade by soldering a wire to the outside of the blade (rather than in the flangeway). This wire will connect to the centre pole of the point motor switch. the two 'feed' poles on the switch would then be fed by the appropriate polarity feed, depending on the point. 

    This will stop you relying on the springs for power feed, and also prevent the shorting, with the insulating fish plates.

     

  4. Hi Shaun, 

    You'll want to do this then :-

    <I removed the image, as the copyright prevents reuse>

    Have a look at the link i sent previously, there is an image described as "The Problem".

    It basically says to put an plastic fishplate on the 'V' rails of the point, and then make a new connection to your DCC (atm DC) bus.

  5. Shaun, 

    can you do a diagram of your layout, as it currently stands? It would be good to show where you are feeding the power.

    permanent shorts on DC tend to be due to pointwork not being isolated correctly. DCC, it's more often that wheels are touching between v rails and frogs where they shouldn't. 

    This page has loads of information on model railway electricals :- http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html

    Regards, 

     

     

  6. Google reports you can get from the most northerly point in Scotland (Dunnet Head) to the most southerly point in England (The Lizard) in around 15 hours, without stops...

    I'm sorry to hear of your loss, but it seems you have found a good mental place for it all, after his illness.

    Good luck on the redevelopment... i'm sure it will be great!

  7. Hi Purbeck, 

    the PL10's and 11's aren't waterproof.

    You can use PL10's mounted below the baseboard, and keep them in good condition with a covering of WD40 etc to keep the moisture out... 

    You can also use the PL10's above board, and then put covers over them. They can be scenic and left there all the time, or just for protection, and removed before running. A microwave treacle sponge pot is a good size and shape... plus the contents are quite tasty too! :)

    The PL11 didn't survive all that well outside. 

    I believe many people use central locking actuators for point motors, but I've never used them so can't give recommendations/

     

  8. Hi Dave, 

    Thanks for your input.. its good to know someone else is in the same situation.

    I'm not really a veteran outdoor OO guy, but have been involved with this for a number of years :- www.adnalm.org.uk , more specifically in the recent rebuild. 

    I'll have a look at your layout, and see what I can take from it. Due to the layout of the garden, i'm looking at close to ground level for one area, and possibly as high as 4 ft in another... I need to finish the clearing of the land, and do a proper survey. Once I know the actual distances, I'll start working on a to-scale plan.

  9. One reason for using these, is that I can't concrete into the ground... as i'm renting. (The plan is to change this at some point). I've thought about using down-pipe, but I've had experience of that and didn't find a really solid way to mount boards to them...

    I think I'll do a test and see how well they hold up.

    thanks, TheQ.

  10. I think the 'future' of modelling will be with developments in 3D printing. It's gone past the idea of 'rapid prototyping' now, as the prints can be very fine indeed... My own printer i'm building is technically capable of printing to 0.2 of a millimeter. Once i've got it up and running, I'll put some items up that i print etc, and a thread for it as well. :)

    Brexit is being used as an excuse to raise prices in general, without good grounds to do so. This decision from Dapol, really highlights the problems for anyone in a product based environment, where it's simply unknown what is going to happen, following the enactment of Article 50. Companies won't take big risks, as that would upset shareholders, since we don't know what will be our 'place' once this 

    I don't generally comment on political issues, but I cannot understand why anyone, looking at the FACTS (not the crap spouted by mainstream media) could decide we are better off out than in. For me, the uncertainty alone, in what is going to happen, was enough to prevent me voting out. It's been proven, factually, that the exit campaign was filled with lies, misinterpreted data, propaganda and a fair smattering of outright racism...

    I'm sure that many exiters don't realise that we will still be bound to EU rules, if we want to trade with them... so why are we expecting this massive amount of autonomy on leaving? Any products we buy from Europe will conform to EU Rules, anything we want to sell to Europe will have to conform, otherwise, it won't be able to be sold. but anyway, I digress.... don't want to throw the thread too far from the tracks.

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  11. It was a pleasure to go through and watch the development unfold.

    You might want to think about writing up a booklet about the process you went through, with pictures etc. 

    I'd also like to see more of the area as a whole, with trains running, now that the line has had some time to 'bed in'

     

  12. Thanks for the response Mick.

    The SHR is going to be more of a Railway in the Garden, rather than a Garden Railway, if you get the distinction. I'm planning on having the base raised up at the bottom end of the garden, and let it run level for the 'loop'. The extension will also run level as much as possible, but ensuring it can still raise above the main line.

    For climate and leaf-fall protection, i'm planning on using a backscene on the boards on the fence sides. On the rear of these will be stainless steel press studs, with press studs on the front of the boards as well. I'm going to ask my lovely wife if she can sew me up some covers out of waterproof material. These should keep the worst of the weather out, and also keep things free from debris. 

    I've thought about getting a shed, but I'm not sure I'll be able to justify the cost. For power, I'm planning to run a heavy duty extension lead from the house. 

    it's going to be a long process, as I've only really got Fridays I can actually work on the railway. the rest of the time, I'll be at work or with my family.

    I'm  leaning towards the 2nd plan, where I'll do the first loop, then put the extension on, then finish the second loop and extra other bits.

     

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