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Everything posted by Stese

  1. Hi Mick, Do you think you'd have had the same issue if you had stuck the track to your groundlevel boards rather than pinned? Regards, Steve D.
  2. Just a quick update... I finally managed to get out and do a survey of the gradient down the garden... At the base of the first treestump at the top end of the garden, a taut string with a hangling level on it, arrives around 5 cm below the top of the fence panel at the bottom end... therefore, I'd have to have a gradient, and I beleive that gradient would be too steep in this gauge. It's all for naught anyway, as last week we had a note from my landlady. She's moving back from AUS to the UK and wants her property back. I have to move by the middle of october. As such, th
  3. i've considered this as a supply for a battery supported power unit for my garden railway... but i've not done anything about that yet.
  4. Are you planning on putting point motors on? if so, using a switch, you can liven the point blade by soldering a wire to the outside of the blade (rather than in the flangeway). This wire will connect to the centre pole of the point motor switch. the two 'feed' poles on the switch would then be fed by the appropriate polarity feed, depending on the point. This will stop you relying on the springs for power feed, and also prevent the shorting, with the insulating fish plates.
  5. Hi Shaun, You'll want to do this then :- <I removed the image, as the copyright prevents reuse> Have a look at the link i sent previously, there is an image described as "The Problem". It basically says to put an plastic fishplate on the 'V' rails of the point, and then make a new connection to your DCC (atm DC) bus.
  6. Shaun, can you do a diagram of your layout, as it currently stands? It would be good to show where you are feeding the power. permanent shorts on DC tend to be due to pointwork not being isolated correctly. DCC, it's more often that wheels are touching between v rails and frogs where they shouldn't. This page has loads of information on model railway electricals :- http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html Regards,
  7. I wonder if using a mix of waterproof PVA and washing up liquid would work. The washing up liquid reportedly keeps the PVA flexible.
  8. Stese

    Dead Rail

    This may be of interest... http://bluerailways.co.uk/Index.aspx
  9. Google reports you can get from the most northerly point in Scotland (Dunnet Head) to the most southerly point in England (The Lizard) in around 15 hours, without stops... I'm sorry to hear of your loss, but it seems you have found a good mental place for it all, after his illness. Good luck on the redevelopment... i'm sure it will be great!
  10. Hi Purbeck, the PL10's and 11's aren't waterproof. You can use PL10's mounted below the baseboard, and keep them in good condition with a covering of WD40 etc to keep the moisture out... You can also use the PL10's above board, and then put covers over them. They can be scenic and left there all the time, or just for protection, and removed before running. A microwave treacle sponge pot is a good size and shape... plus the contents are quite tasty too! The PL11 didn't survive all that well outside. I believe many people use central locking actuators for point motors
  11. If it's old tri-ang, then it's possible the flanges are riding up on the sleepers/checkrails.
  12. Ahh I get it now, Thanks.
  13. Hi Dave, Thanks for your input.. its good to know someone else is in the same situation. I'm not really a veteran outdoor OO guy, but have been involved with this for a number of years :- www.adnalm.org.uk , more specifically in the recent rebuild. I'll have a look at your layout, and see what I can take from it. Due to the layout of the garden, i'm looking at close to ground level for one area, and possibly as high as 4 ft in another... I need to finish the clearing of the land, and do a proper survey. Once I know the actual distances, I'll start working on a to-scale plan.
  14. One reason for using these, is that I can't concrete into the ground... as i'm renting. (The plan is to change this at some point). I've thought about using down-pipe, but I've had experience of that and didn't find a really solid way to mount boards to them... I think I'll do a test and see how well they hold up. thanks, TheQ.
  15. Another question for those experienced in this.... Has anyone used 50mm square Spike Metpost units to mount their railways? I'm looking at ones with around 450mm of spike... have they worked in the medium/long term? are they firm enough?
  16. Transformers. OK, got it My layout... nothing as yet. I'm waiting for the weather to improve so I can start clearing... then measuring up and putting more detail into the planning
  17. Ok, Just had to properly check the thread for what was meant by Trannies... Transceivers?
  18. I think the 'future' of modelling will be with developments in 3D printing. It's gone past the idea of 'rapid prototyping' now, as the prints can be very fine indeed... My own printer i'm building is technically capable of printing to 0.2 of a millimeter. Once i've got it up and running, I'll put some items up that i print etc, and a thread for it as well. Brexit is being used as an excuse to raise prices in general, without good grounds to do so. This decision from Dapol, really highlights the problems for anyone in a product based environment, where it's simply unknown what is going to
  19. Hi Shaun, If I follow this correctly, the DCC signal never reaches the track? Whats the Motor shield used for in this case? Regards, Steve
  20. admin - please remove. original post no longer relevent
  21. It was a pleasure to go through and watch the development unfold. You might want to think about writing up a booklet about the process you went through, with pictures etc. I'd also like to see more of the area as a whole, with trains running, now that the line has had some time to 'bed in'
  22. Thanks for the response Mick. The SHR is going to be more of a Railway in the Garden, rather than a Garden Railway, if you get the distinction. I'm planning on having the base raised up at the bottom end of the garden, and let it run level for the 'loop'. The extension will also run level as much as possible, but ensuring it can still raise above the main line. For climate and leaf-fall protection, i'm planning on using a backscene on the boards on the fence sides. On the rear of these will be stainless steel press studs, with press studs on the front of the boards as well. I'm going
  23. <Warning>Picture heavy post! </Warning> So, I thought i'd detail my plans for the SHR, to get ideas and comments. As I said in my intro post, I've got an area of the garden which I feel is a good place to have a railway. It is overhung by tall trees, so nothing much grows there, and its out of the way of the rest of the garden. This image gives an overview of the area that I'm planning to use. Specifically, the area along the fence to the right, and then along the rear fence, behind the trees. i plan to bring out a loop, to go around the trees.
  24. Just finished going through this entire post... all 54 pages of it! Worsley Dale is a fine achievement, and something to be very proud of...
  25. Steel Track will rust over time, Nickel Silver will tarnish and pick up dirt, but won't rust. Like many others, I'm planning on using Peco SL-100 Wooden Sleeper track.
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