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Stese

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Everything posted by Stese

  1. Hi Mick, I've had a look at the previous video and I can't see any flickering or fading, so it might be the screen that you are viewing these on....
  2. well.... it occurred to me i've not updated the post. After a promising start, i had no further development over the summer due to peco not being able to fulfill orders... this has since been resolved and some points, motors etc are waiting in my hattons trunk.... however, i've had a problem with my fence and taken the two boards down so that I can deal with it...so it will be some time before I can carry on. I have however decided that i'm going to replace the shed with a larger one, So that my tools etc are not separate. I'll also lower the railway so its more stable, as I won't be att
  3. Hi Jimbob, Are you able to provide a link to the part you are using? Regards, Steve D.
  4. managed to get the next control panel in place...
  5. They really look good!
  6. I thought the same, but I think whats going on is that they've offset some of the cost with the PSU, as that seems rather expensive to me.
  7. Hornby are releasing these at the end of the year. https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/hm6000-app-based-analogue-control.html I'm interested in these so have one (and the PSU) on preorder from hattons. Anyone got any thoughts on them? will you be getting one?
  8. made the most of the good weather we had, and the dry days since the weather turned to get further with the build. 2 new 2ft wide, 160cm long boards have been added, which will feature a small loco yard, a goods loop and a couple of sidings (when the points etc arrive from hattons!!) the control panel in grey shown has the final track plan in this area. (a couple of printing errors on the sheet which i'll fix later) The remote / local switch will eventually switch which controller the sections are attached to... remote will be hornby's hm6000 when it is released. Local is a ga
  9. Hi Mick, try altering the anti flicker setting on your camera..( normally included for flourescent lighting) it may help/stop the leds not appearing to work Regards Steve
  10. Hi Mick... thanks for the comments! its definately a longer term project! However I've made some more progress! sorry... i'm on my phone and not able to fix the order...
  11. Hi all, bit of a transfer from the planning forum. i've finially got a baseboard in place! it will be joined by another and then i'll put a small amount of track down. Since the photo was taken, i've felted the baseboard and fixed the roof and walls in place. Woo!
  12. The next bit of planning i've got is to sort out how the railway will exit the shed. Currently, i'm thinking of building an extension piece on the left side of the shed. This should hopefully give me the room for two full length sidings in the shed to serve as a fiddleyard. I've got a curved point to help with this. One thing i'm keen to avoid is tight curves, so i'll be making a template right angle 3ft radius curve out of cardboard. When I start to lay track, i'll use this to check i'm not going below this radii. One thing i've not decided on its control of points. I'd normal
  13. Thanks Andrew... got a little progress to share already... I spent a few hours making the shed a little more suitable. At the bottom of the door, i've plugged the hole, so less damp can get in. (Generally the shed is pretty dry). The other change is the removal of a panel, it being replaced with a 5mm thick sheet of prespex. Next weekend may see some baseboards going into the shed and track going down... hopefully
  14. Hmm, the images uploaded in the correct order.. but don't show up that way. 😕 Now in the correct order.
  15. Hi All, Here are some musings for my new railway. I plan to call it Stenbrädet Järnväg or the Quarry Hill Railway, depending if i'm running Swedish or UK stock. The line will start in a fiddle yard shed, run almost immediately into a largeish station area. Eventually this area will also feature a 'Dog Bone' return loop. Out of the station, the line will run down the garden, towards the 'Garden Shed' where it will disappear into a tunnel and run behind the shed. On the other side of the shed the line will run in mostly 'open country' into it reaches the end of the garden,
  16. How did you get on with the recycled plastic, ba14eagle?
  17. Has anyone used OSB for baseboard building in an outdoor setting ? I'm considering it as I can get it for £9.50 per 2.4mx1.2m sheet. Obviously painting it and covering it with felt, and it will be mounted on posts, not at ground level. I'd use marine ply but on a restricted budget its difficult to justify.
  18. Hi Dean, I noticed that in one of your early pics you've got a tube of copper grease on show... may I ask what you use it for? Regards, Steve.
  19. Hi Mick, Do you think you'd have had the same issue if you had stuck the track to your groundlevel boards rather than pinned? Regards, Steve D.
  20. Just a quick update... I finally managed to get out and do a survey of the gradient down the garden... At the base of the first treestump at the top end of the garden, a taut string with a hangling level on it, arrives around 5 cm below the top of the fence panel at the bottom end... therefore, I'd have to have a gradient, and I beleive that gradient would be too steep in this gauge. It's all for naught anyway, as last week we had a note from my landlady. She's moving back from AUS to the UK and wants her property back. I have to move by the middle of october. As such, th
  21. i've considered this as a supply for a battery supported power unit for my garden railway... but i've not done anything about that yet.
  22. Are you planning on putting point motors on? if so, using a switch, you can liven the point blade by soldering a wire to the outside of the blade (rather than in the flangeway). This wire will connect to the centre pole of the point motor switch. the two 'feed' poles on the switch would then be fed by the appropriate polarity feed, depending on the point. This will stop you relying on the springs for power feed, and also prevent the shorting, with the insulating fish plates.
  23. Hi Shaun, You'll want to do this then :- <I removed the image, as the copyright prevents reuse> Have a look at the link i sent previously, there is an image described as "The Problem". It basically says to put an plastic fishplate on the 'V' rails of the point, and then make a new connection to your DCC (atm DC) bus.
  24. Shaun, can you do a diagram of your layout, as it currently stands? It would be good to show where you are feeding the power. permanent shorts on DC tend to be due to pointwork not being isolated correctly. DCC, it's more often that wheels are touching between v rails and frogs where they shouldn't. This page has loads of information on model railway electricals :- http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.html Regards,
  25. I wonder if using a mix of waterproof PVA and washing up liquid would work. The washing up liquid reportedly keeps the PVA flexible.
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