Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


ba14eagle last won the day on November 7

ba14eagle had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

24 Excellent

About ba14eagle

  • Rank
    Gold Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Im hoping tomorrows announcement is a class 50 🤞 or mk2b coaching stock.
  2. Despite trying to make sure the trackbed was cast level, it hasn't turned out that way - there looks to be a slight slope towards the outside of the curve. I really must remember to use the clamps I specifically bought for holding the shuttering in place, when I cast the next sections! But seriously, I think the trackbed will be fine, once Ive shaved it all over. The railway will retain the same name - it only changes if the railway moves house.
  3. I have taken the plastic sheeting off the cast section today. Unfortunately, in a couple of places, it has touched the slurry whilst it was drying and spoiled the smoothness of the finish. Its ok though - the great thing about this method of construction is that you can shave the surface with a surform. I have done a little bit of this and it has smoothed out nicely. I laid a piece of O gauge track down and was easily able to put a couple of track pins into it. I am going to leave the sheeting off now and see how this section weathers and when I get some more time and fine weather, I will continue removing the shuttering and shave some more off the surface.
  4. Dave I think it was a "measure" of SBR
  5. Mick The rubbercrete has a completely different feel this time around. It wasn't so rough last time, however, my ingredients were different. I didn't use cork last time - I experimented with the cheaper option of gardeners vermiculite. Maybe this mix would benefit from having a more equal mix of cork and rubber chips. Once I've taken the shuttering off, I will run the surform over it and see if it comes up a bit smoother. As far as the next step, well, if I can remove the shuttering, I will be digging out the next section and putting the shuttering in for that - I've got some displaced soil to rehome first! I wonder if the temptation to lay track on the completed section will get the better of me?
  6. Some more photos of progress with my first cast section. First up, this was my measuring cup. Rubbercrete mix proportions i used were : 1 cement, 2 cork dust, 4 rubber chips. 1 measure of SBR additive was mixed in and the rest was water. This was the dry mix. When well mixed, this was poured in and smoothered to the top of the shuttering. When dry, this is how it looked. I will admit, that some batches werent measured quite this precisely and this showed when they dried. Some werent as solid as others. Fingers crossed, the slurry I made up later, will hold this together. The following couple of photos show where I am at now. The top has been painted with a slurry mix. Im sorry, but i cant remember exactly the proportions! I think it was 1 cement, 2 cork dust, SBR & water. It was poured on and painted out with a brush. Its made the top surface a lot smoother - hopefully, it will still be pliable enough to take track pins (ive not tried yet, but will). Ive now got to try and remove the shuttering, ready for casting the next section.
  7. But how many times will you be pointing a camera, back towards the sidings?
  8. The trick is to not make lots of trees, but suggest there are lots of trees. On BWB, I wanted a thick forest all along the backscene, but it had to be low relief. I used loads of polyfiber, scattered with different leaf material. This sort of looks like different trees in the background. If you add some proper trees in front of something like this, it could look quite convincing. I also had a few nice trees, which went in front of some cheaper examples, where low relief wasn't required..
  9. Forest Bower Sidings. Lots of trees on the landscape!
  10. I had not paid much attention to the Dapol announcement (or the Heljan class 40 one either) because, as with my OO collection, I am sticking fairly rigidly to the timescale (mid 1970's) within which my O gauge models will fall. Luckily, short trains will not look too out of place within this period and I have pretty much all that I want, from whats currently available r-t-r. so, despite the price, its a no from me. I was just relieved it wasnt a class 68, because I think I would have caved in for that! (thats a point, if you see a OO 68 for sale in TPE livery can you let me know - I cant find one anywhere). Its an interesting question you pose Mick, regarding Dapol and Heljan pricing, especially as lots of "experts" on certain other web forums take great delight in pulling Heljan diesels to pieces, without mercy. £276 seems an absolute bargain for an O gauge loco. Having said that, Im not adverse to paying £400 - £600 for a Heljan loco. Its about horses for courses - what can I afford and what cant I afford and if they seem to be value for money. Im currently wanting to buy another O gauge loco, to operate alongside my Western, but am having to do a bit of saving to do so and also balancing that expenditure with costs involved in rebuilding my railway (which are adding up quickly) and paying for a couple of other OO gauge pre-orders that arent far off delivery. Maybe you might decide to thin out your OO MGR fleet, to finance an O gauge fleet - just kidding!
  11. Im getting a bit of a Hatfield & Stainforth image in my head, with a big industrial plant on the backscene
  12. First bit of casting with Peco setrack test fitting. Once the rubbercrete top has been added, the O gauge track shown will be moved over as far as i can towards the edge. On the inner OO gauge line, i am going to install point work here, to access a loop or 2.
  13. I can hear you cutting up scouring pads as I type Mick!!
  14. Mick There seems to be a whole host of suppliers now, as the use of rubber chips (now known as Wet Pour) for children's play areas seems to have taken off. Yesterday I picked up 6 x 25kg bags from a company in Romsey, Hants. I had also spoken to companies in Brighouse, West Yorkshire and Worksop, Notts. The latter 2 were cheaper per bag, but involved hefty delivery charges, making little difference whichever way I did it. As before, I've over bought, meaning I shouldn't have to worry about restocking. Today I've bought 30 litres of cork powder from the internet - this is still an expensive commodity! I am going to fiddle with the recipe a bit and swap the rubber and cork proportions around. The free samples, that the company in Worksop made available to me, were all rubber chips bound with polyurethane? resin - these took track pins quite well, so I don't foresee a problem with having a greater proportion of rubber in the mix. Worth noting is that this company now sells deck board which has rubber down the centre of it, supposedly, making it non-slip. This in itself, could make for a useful track bed material. As I said previously, its likely that I wont get around to doing rubbercrete mixing until this time next week, so lets keep our fingers crossed for some good weather!
  • Create New...