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Nuvolari

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Everything posted by Nuvolari

  1. Hi I recently bought two Class 40's from Hornby, although they are DCC and sound equipped, the body I find very un-detailed looking. If you compare it to a Bachmann version, it looks very poor, but than again it reflects in price of course. But still with a bit DIY these models could be given a 10x better look than it comes out of the box. And I don't want to have two with the same numbered locomotives running around on my track any way. These are probably the first and last diesel engines I bought, as only steam intrest me. I need them for a specific task , where I will come back to later. As I'm not familiar with British diesels, I do hope a few of you could help me with a few questions I have about these. The class 40 reminds me of the Belgian NMBS/SNCB type 51 when I started to learn driving. Although it's only one Class, it stayed in service so long that all kind of changes where made, ending up with with not two locomotives look the same anymore. Anyway, I found two version that I had in mind to detail them to. The first version is almost like it comes out of box. Here I will do some detailing and integrate red and white LED's The second is almost the same but it has an extra white headlight and a lid up number shield. And it's about this number shield I have a question about. Is the number shield an identification of the trein it's running, or does it have an other meaning? I will keep you up do date on the changes I will make. Cheers, Danny
  2. A few years ago somebody gave me an old Hornby 0-6-0T class J83 LNER. Although it still runs perfect, the body had the marks of intensive playing. Buffers where missing, parts broken of and the varnish layer severe damaged. I first started to remove the broken parts and made new replacements out of brass. Than the body was prepared for airbrushing and a acrylic-polyurethane primer from Vallejo was first applied. Perhaps a small tip, the acrylic-polyurethane primer from Vallejo is a quick drying paint, but I still wait 24H before applying the next layer. The experience I have is that the paint it better hardend out. Finely acryl colors from Vallejo are applied. It was fingers crossed for the restoration of the damaged varnish layer. If the damage not would disappear, I had to redo also the green part an text. Just before applying the varnish, I sprayed a thin layer of IPA alcohol to weaken the old varnish, to let the new varnish blend better in with the old. As you can see, the varnish restored it self back again, the lettering did suffer, but it's still an old model and gives it's charm. A DCC chip is build in and the model can stared a new life. I hope that my topic was interesting for you, perhaps an inspiration to restore a few old models laying around. Cheers, Danny
  3. ...here is the last part... After the ground coat was applied, the build up with colors is applied. For this I use the Andrea color system paint. This paint is a professional water based acrylic figurine paint. The paint is bought in specific color set, like this set for red for instance. The color range starts with a basic paint for the specific color. From there you apply first the dark shades then you go to the light shades. Although on such a small OO scale, the through potential of the paint system can not be applied to it's full right, but it's still is nice to work with the system. You also could buy a few general paints from the Vallejo range, that will do the trick. I have the Andrea system at hand so I used that. I always start with the skin parts. First a general flesh paint. You first applier the dark shades, from light to dark, under the shin, at borders where clothes touch the skin, underside of the hands, etc... Than you apply the light shades, from dark to light, top of the nose, shin, top of the hands etc... Of course like in this case with a crew for steam trains, you want to apply coal dirty hands and faces. I advice not to apply that with paint, I always paint a fresh not dirty face. Than I take Vallejo black pigment powder, you could also use pastel chalk, and apply that with a dry brush. The same is done with the rest of the colors. Now only the figures need to be set in a locomotive, and finished... Unfortunately the second figure is not so visible on camera but you'll get the idea. I'm sorry I couldn't get more detailed photos, but such small OO figures are really hard to take pictures off. But I think there is enough detail to make up you mind from. Well so far the figures from Modelu, I only can say top product... Cheers, Danny
  4. Small update... The figures did get their primer coat applied by airbrush. I use grey acrylic-polyurethane primer from Vallejo. This paint is top quality, I've tried several brands, but this one to me is the best. The primer color grey is a personal choice. Their are people who prefer black or white but that's something you've to experiment around with, to see what soots you the best. Just for the record, black & white is also available in the acrylic-polyurethane primers from Vallejo. This paint can also be applied in all ranges of modelbuilding. But make sure if you want to use this paint, that you also buy the thinner and cleaner. Always clean you material immediately after use. Once acrylic-polyurethane primer from Vallejo is hard, their is very little that removes it without damaging your item. With the primer applied you even can see better how nice these figures are detailed. There are no seams that needed to be removed, lovely product to work with. Next stage will be applying the base colors... Cheers, Danny
  5. Yesterday I received two figures from Modelu. And I'm very pleased about their quality. The figures them self are made with the latesed technique of 3D printing and are very detailed. You can ask your self is this necessary on such a small scale, I leave this up to everybody's opinion. Any way I just want to point out that these figures are top in fine scale. This is how they arrive, packed of course in a strong small cardboard box. After I took them out of their Bags, I washed them with a good soap to get rid of any grease partikels that where left when they where molded. I then super glued them to a wooden washing peg that I altered a bid, by making the ends flat. This will provide a good base to hold them. Here you can see how well they are detailed. They are now ready for their ground coat. I do hope their is some interest here on the forum, that I do a small tutorial on them? Cheers, Danny
  6. A small update in my garden railway preparation. As I mentioned before, I want to equip my track outside the station area with automated blok systems. I just ordered a module from BLOCKsignalling that works on infra red detection build into the track. I still have to test it out, but it seems the best solution to my needs. It works independent from the DCC system, it only requires power from the DCC bus line. The module can be divided into two operating sections. -The most important is that a train stops before entering a occupied section. -The second one is the controle of signals. Now here I have to experiment a little with. The module is made to operate Ekon & Berko modern light Signals. But I want to operate semaphore signals. What I hope is to use the electric pulse that operate the Ekon & Berko Signals to be used to operate semaphore signals. These modules are not cheap £25 each but on the other hand cheaper than Lenz, and if it works perfect, I think it's worth it. And there is no need to instal the signals them self strait away, it will operate without them. The signals can be installed in a later stage. Perhaps some good news for the people who operate in DC, BLOCKsignalling has also a DC version of this module. Cheers, Danny
  7. I defiantly don't want to interfere with British politics, but if your vote has been misused by somebody else, that sounds like fraud to me, and one can ask them selfs "how legal is the referendum"? Here in Belgium this is not possible, we all have an identity card with an electronic chip, that is used to register, even the vote is now done by computer and registers to a national server. Of course if someone tempers with the computer system it self, nothing can be secured 100%. But in that case it would be fraud and computer crime on a very high level, not some random person who claims to be someone. Also every citizen older than 18 must go to vote. If not you can get a severe penalty, and can cost you a lot of money. But at least all citizens have voted. There can be exceptions made, like being abroad, sick or mentally unstable, but this must be registered and verified before the actual vote. But what ever, I still do hope that there will be a new referendum for Britain. Because how I see the news here, this referendum was more a power battle whit in the conservative party and a protest vote of the people, with consequences that the people didn't know of, and will come with a very high prise to pay. But like I mentioned, I'm non British, and I respect what ever is decided. Perhaps one last word to the EU and It's system, I only got this to say " To many politicians". We should had introduced the American system in the first place, where every state has his representatives in the European government. Now every country can have several governments, they claim taxes to pay for their own depth they make, and claim it to te EU. Buy NO politician is going to raise that question, because who want to fire him self. Think about that. Cheers, Danny
  8. The OO APT-E looks great,also the detailing looks very nice. But I'm not interested in the era, all to modern for me. But I'm really looking for worth when the GNR Stirling Single 4-2-2 No1 with Sturrock Tender comes out Big wheels, industrial revolution, pioneering railways, I just love that era. And by the looks of it, it's going to a very nice, and almost to reality like perfect model you can get. I can wait until the postman rings the bel and not to forget, runs through my garden The locomotive I mean, not the postman Cheers, Danny
  9. Hi Tony, I think you missed something, my garden rail will be in OO gauge British rolling stock see: I'm still in the planning stage, I will not go to fast, I'm someone who wants to prepare very well before I will act. You can of course never be fully prepared, but I want to rule out as many surprises as I can. At the moment I'm stocking up the materials I will need, and run small experiments. And here by comes that DCC is new for me, working analog for almost 40 year is a big change and the grass is not so green as they want to let you believe, but I'm up for a new challenge. I hope that by end September the foundations will be their, depending on the weather and free time I have next to my full job. But by then It will go to a winter stop, although I've some in door scenery building planned. Work until Christmas is for you mid summer but for us mid winter, and where I live this can mean -15°C or 5°F and snow I think most members here on the forum will be jealous of your climate you live in We are not from down under, but from up here. Anyway thank you very much for your reply and the links you send, much appreciated Cheers, Danny
  10. Yes I understand that many brands produced them and range in different budgets. But the question is, which one does a good job, expensive doesn't necessarily mean good. Perhaps I should put the question this way, who has one, and is so pleased with it he can't do without it anymore? Or perhaps the other way, "I bought it with high expectations, but I better didn't buy it".
  11. Hi I found this Modelu firm website. http://www.modelu3d.co.uk The seem to produce these lovely train crews in very nice details and poses. I haven't seen them for real yet, but I just order some. They are not the cheapest figures, but if they look as good, as they are advertised, they are worth to give it a go. Perhaps some of you already bought some of these figures, let us know what you think of them? I'll keep jou informed when I get them. Cheers, Danny
  12. What about track cleaning wagons, are they any good? I know that several brands make them, and they come in all kind of sizes and prices. Who has experience, what would you advice and defiantly not advice? In the last Hornby Magazine od 06/2016 there was an interesting article on wheel cleaning devices. On the first side interesting to have one. But on the other hand I do ask my self, don't the wheels, patina and paint damage rubbing the wheels over brass brushes? Who has long time experience with that? Cheers, Danny
  13. You where not harsh on Hornby Mick, I totally agree with you. And one should tell them this once in a while. But I think it's because we approach it from a collectors/modelers view, and the see it as a toy. Even the big German brands like Märklin/Trix, Rocco etc. bring out these nonsense production. They also had a liquor bottle in form of a wagon, a locomotive in form of a pig etc... It seem that every brand has it's lunatic designer. Do these product sell, yes probably. Who to, not me, that is for sure. Is it worth while, I think so, otherwise they would not repeat this nonsense. I think we best can look away , and hope that no one buys it for us SURPRISE!!! Cheers, Danny
  14. It is not really a big investment Mick, new decals for a few quit, and it will sell to relatives who doesn't understand the railway modelers world. Followed with a big thanks and a false smile, perhaps we have forgotten that it is the gesture that counts And yes I agree with you, they better could spend there resources wiser. They seem to forget that the average age who still is interested in model railways is over 40, we are not the public anymore who buy an oval set with a cheap model in it, and think that it's the end of the world. And lets face it, if we would buy such a set, it would be for our grandchildren. And they look at us and think, even often say it in our face, "what the F*** is this, I want a computer game" with a face like this or this , I always found Hornby a cheap, affordable brand who every time surprise me with relative very good looking models. Of course they only could just keep doing this, and keep their head above water by producing their models in cheap labor countries now. If It would be an EU production, your average model would cost you 3X what you pay now. Look at Märklin, 300 to 500 euro for an average model is normal there. And even they are dancing on the edge to disappear. Believe me many modelers will stop their hobby at those prices. That's why I like Hornby so much, an average good price for a good looking model to enjoy. If only they would leave the toy and giftshop department behind and invest a bid more in their DCC system that is well on it's way. Perhaps less new model releases, but all kept at an sensible and affordable prices for all enthusiast is the real goal here. And to all wives and children who want to surprise their dads, a new point or a couple of new tracks are always welcome and more attractive to us Cheers, Danny
  15. Yes it will in deed take a lot of track, I even changed the design to a double track loop on each side, to even get a better traffic flow. The hole idea is that the layout can be run as real traffic, where freight trains go on a side track to let faster passenger trains pass. This system is used in double lines, and even in single lines, perhaps an idea for your line Mick. It allows you to cross trains from opposite directions or to overhall slower trains, it makes the game more fun. A more simplified blok system can also be worked out in a classic DC layout, with detection and relais switches, you only need a lot more wire and a complicated relais with bord compared with DCC. I fully understand what you say Mick, there are always things you did not stand still with, or realize later on that you could have done it better. Even in the design face, when you start to buy your material, a specially when you not quite familiar like I'm with DCC. That you think by your self why I didn't go that way. After I bought the Hornby DCC system, I found out that Lenz is more advanced and perhaps was a better choice in the long run. But on the other hand, where to draw the line, and of course budget wise it also makes a difference. I've now come to the point where I still have to work out a reasonable blok system maybe not as beautiful as Lenz offers with there ABC system, where trains move gently to a halt in front of a closed signal. It will be more driving and emergency break But at least sections must be secured, and collisions avoided. And than I hoppe finely to start the build itself. Cheers, Danny
  16. It looks you are well on you way in your build. Although it is not a garden layout, I will be following your tred with intrest. Cheers, Danny
  17. A well set layout, maximum use of space, nice long realistic platforms, very nice. When the vegetation takes it's place in the whole set up, this garden will be a joy to spend with the family during warm summer evenings, TOP, well done!!! Cheers, Danny
  18. Hi there, Quite a while since I posted something, I've been very busy behind the scene as they say. I've been experimenting with DCC as it is all new to me, and need to be figured out before I go any further. Perhaps a dull subject as we all want to see trains running, and tracks to be build, but every good house needs a good foundation. I got in the mean while, a Hornby E-link, that I can control with Railmaster-Pro over my Pc laptop. It took me a while to get acquainted with the basics and it looks very promising. Some of you will probably say that there are better systems on the market, but looking at price quality I think it's not to bad. I still am struggling with the block system, that I want to interduce. I'm pretty fed up with the poor information the retailers are giving. It always turns out that they want to appraise only their systems in a complete pack. DCC should be a standard norm where you cane combine different brands, but to often it's a far cry from. In my opinion Hornby should pick up the pace a bid quicker in DCC extensions. I've also been experimenting with automatic uncouplers. Being familiar with Märklin, they have successful uncouplers for decades. Of course, a Märklin coupling is very different from a Hornby one. But with a little DIY, I figured out that a Märlin K-rail decoupler can rebuild to uncouple Hornby type couplings. I now just need to get a few electronic components to run them DCC, but for those who are interested, they can also be used analoge. I will try to make a small video of the rebuild Märklin K-rail uncoupler. In the mean while al my rolling stock is DCC fitted, and I bought some new stuff as well, all steam, like the "cock O the North". Lovely engine and a very nice runner. I hope to publish some photos and video in the near future, to make it here a little bid more attractive. Cheers, Danny
  19. Lovely video you made there Mick I hope to share such a video one day of my garden track. Keep on posting, your work is an inspiration Cheers, Danny
  20. Hi, Here is a schematic sketch of how the "St-Gorges line" will divided like. The middle part will be the station, on the line there will be waiting parts where trains can cross and pass a slower train. At the end there is the choice of taken a turn and go in rounds or a loop, this will point the train into the other direction. So I will be able to run trains in all direction using the layout to it's maximum. Of corse to make it a bid more exiting, this layout will be 40m long mainly L shaped, with twisting tracks through the garden. Cheers, Danny
  21. To grow moss there where you want is not always significant. These are the things moss in general does not like and or needs: -No sun -no dry spots -a constant supplier of most, idle is a constant high humidity air that surrounds the moss -a good thick layer compost soil (dead leaves, used tea) the compost should act as a drainage, but in the mean time keep enough most, or being able to evaporate huge quantities of most -some type of stone, such as granite mix in the soil also helps, but not all stone is suitable. -no artifiscial compost or ground supplements. So if you take everything in consideration, the places where you want to grow moss next to an open railway will be very hard to realize. A good alternative is low growing sedum, the type they use to cover roofs, this is a very hardy plant that does well in nearly every space. Good luck with your project. Cheers, Danny
  22. Yesterday filmed on my big scale 1/1 garden railway. The border crossing between Belgium and Germany. What you see first is going over from the Belgian lefthand driving (curtesy from Mr Stephensons who installed the first track in Belgium 1835), into the German righthand side. The following signals you see are Belgian lefthand signals but right hand placed. On the bridge, the locomotive is switcht over from from 3000V DC to 15000V AC while driving. ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SNCB_Class_28_(Bombardier) ) The last signal you see is a german one. The actual border is in the tunnel. I hope you enjoyed it, it is not a common side to see. Cheers, Danny
  23. Yes, that looks like old Mc Donalds barn But indeed a nice example
  24. Hi, Thank you for your reactions. These buildings where indeed tended for a Bavarian line. I know that I would look stupid to put them next to British station buildings. And that is not my intention, my worry is, or was the mix of OO HO. And I think in the open space of a garden the differences will fade away. I've put an big order out for British building that will form an authentic British station feel to it. I do hope they arrive next week, you'll see more of that in the future. But My design and running stock will be anyway a European mix even a mix in gauges. It will all become clear when the actual build starts, but one must have a vision first to get started. Picture an 3.5 gauge 40m long L shaped line wit a loop on each end. (to run my hornby live steam rocket) Than on each side of that 3.5 gauge track a HO/OO line, forming actually a double line, if you think away that 3.5 gauge line. Also forming an integrated loop on each side that will go in a tunnel to cross the 3.5 line. At each side there will be a 4 track station with coal yard. And here comes in my idea to make on one side a typical British station. And on the other side a more european on. Like I already mentioned at my introduction here on the forum, I've got quite a huge collection mix of european stock, that is mostly hidden away in boxes, and I want to see them running. It will look a bid strange to see a Mallard fly trough a Bavarian like station and a Bavarian S3/6 storm trough a British station. But see it as an early version of the Euro tunnel effect Button line is, if it's all dressed in nice, it will suit my dream of finely running my collection of rolling stock and give you pleasure to see it. One can also call it a schizophrenic line Cheers, Danny
  25. Hi, Once a teacher of mine sad, there is not such a thing a dom question, there are only dom answers I'm also making the transition to DCC, almost all my OO locomotives got DCC decoders now. I call it "going to the dark side" I've done 17 last weekend and still need to do 5. I've no experience with sound generators, but what I've seen last weekend, is that some locomotives got really tight spaces. And I'm convinced that small locomotives can't be fitted at all. So instead having half my locomotives fitted, I rather prefer non are fitted. Although I do admit that a sound generator fitted engine makes quite an impression. But what I really advice is the step over to DCC, not cheap I admit, but worth while. Cheers, Danny
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