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Kris

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Everything posted by Kris

  1. Just gone back after the winter, and pleased to announce that the glazing seal silicone has held rock solid so that's a tip for anyone wanting to fix track to concrete! I know it's stuck solid, because I had to pull a load up... The loop at the far end is round a large shrub and near a huge tree, so the moisture in the soil fluctuates wildly - it's either a swamp or a desert. As a result the concrete and brick structure has developed large cracks so I got rid of it. I have replaced it with the same method as the rest of the railway, fence posts and gravel boards! They don't move, are pre
  2. In my experience, it's all about the radius of the turns before anything else! I made mistakes of laying everything out, leveling, digging etc before I worked out that I didn't have enough room for the minimum radius turns that my trains would go round. I think Peco still have downloadable templates - print a load off and experiment, but don't try to tighten the turns further than first radius (with flex-track for example) or change levels too quickly or your trains will fall off the tracks, normally after a load of work that then needs changing! Good luck and enjoy
  3. Yes, it's a Hornby Blue Rapier (Railroad version). It was quite easy to convert to DCC and runs really well. Next step for this train is directional lights. Here are a couple more videos https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3DrrpIPe5iIeWNBSkZWeXVON0k/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3DrrpIPe5iIVmpIdnF1aWV6MDg/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3DrrpIPe5iIUENpX2JGQTJ3R1E/view?usp=sharing
  4. As I'm no longer in the planning stage, I'll be updating my other thread in Members Garden Railways! Happy days, thanks for all the help everyone
  5. I can now happily say I am no longer in the planning stage, because Hornbeam Railway works! That's not to say it's anywhere near finished, but here's a video of the first run all the way round https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3DrrpIPe5iIOXYxd3lIeGJMQ0U/view?usp=sharing More to follow
  6. It works!!! Here's a link to a video https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3DrrpIPe5iIOXYxd3lIeGJMQ0U/view?usp=sharing
  7. Quality post - thanks. Lots to think about there!
  8. Now being a bit ignorant on these matters, I would like to know if anyone has experience of the best DCC decoder to run on an outdoor track before I spend any more money!? I bought a few of the cheapie £10 decoders that worked fine indoors and programming (when I didn't release the magic blue smoke with my wiring skills), but outdoors the loco needs a kick up the backside before it will go, and will then stop dead a yard up the track, and that's after cleaning the track! Having looked on the DIY DCC decoder sites, they say it tends to be down to the tolerance of the resistors used -
  9. Kris

    Ballast

    I'll be there for weeks! Does it work if you pre-mix it and dump it on (obviously protecting the tracks first) ?
  10. Kris

    Ballast

    Sticky ballast - has anyone tried it? http://www.rapidonline.com/hobby/noch-9394-ho-tt-sticky-ballast-grey-300g-55-7820 Looks like you pour it on wet and it dries rock hard. May be worth a look albeit a bit expensive. I'm assuming it may be a less messy way of laying fixed ballast than mixing sand and floor polish together
  11. Just to add that I would probably do all the setting up of the JMRI stuff while it's connected to a TV and while you have a keyboard and mouse. There is a zip file on the JMRI website to download, and the rest is fairly self-explanatory, and it's explained very well on the website. It will definitely save some frustration later on doing it in this order.
  12. For all those interested, the Pi guide is now up
  13. Now we're into desktop mode... Click the start button just like you would a Windows PC, and navigate through the drop-down menus to the WiFi configuration tool (you can use a mouse this time) Now Ctrl+X to exit, then Y to agree to save, then enter. You have just created all the files and passwords required to start X11VNC when the Pi starts. Your mobile device Download a VNC app onto your mobile device - I use the free versions of “VNC Viewer” for my Android phone, and “Mocha VNC Lite” on my Ipad. These are really easy to set up. Once they’re installed they will ask yo
  14. This is my own take on the setup for the Raspberry Pi to run JMRI – there are probably different (and probably better) ways of doing it, but this is what worked for me! Anything I recommend should be taken with a pinch of salt, especially if you know what you’re doing around Linux (which I don’t) and have a more elegant way of doing it! I have split it into 2 parts for ease of reading and because I can't upload more than 10 (albeit dodgy) photos. Part 1 The first step is to connect everything together and use a TV with HDMI inputs, plug in a WiFi dongle, keyboard and mouse. We w
  15. Kris

    Ballast

    Sorry to resurrect a really old thread, but I am currently at this stage where I'm thinking about ballasting some stretches of track. I've laid everything onto concrete, so I'm thinking about making up a mixture of ballast and rapid setting cement powder. I'll lay it on dry and once I'm sure it's all off the track with a soft brush, I'll spray it with a mist of water. In theory it should set and be as hard as, er, concrete........ If anyone's tried this and it failed miserably, please let me know now
  16. Just tried to upload a guide to get the Raspberry Pi running JMRI for wireless control - the forum won't accept PDF! Mick...? What formats will the forum let me submit? cheers
  17. I'll put a PDF together of all the steps once I've ironed out all the bugs - I'll upload it here in a few days if I can
  18. I have now replaced the first loop section with bricks embedded in concrete. Looks rock solid now! I'll add some photos once I've tidied it up a bit. I also gave up on using flex track as the loop in this section is so tight - I'm right on the limit for 1st radius with my available space, and the temptation was to bend it a bit tighter and grab a few more mm of space here and there. The result was derailed trains, no matter what I tried and how many times I tried to reshape it! I have replaced it with a mix of 1st and 2nd radius set track sections, and so far so good. The Hornby Eurostar
  19. Back to the drawing board on the looped sections - they have completely fallen to pieces! They had stable foundations and were deep enough, but I think it's my choice of concrete that's the problem. I went for 'postcrete' for convenience, but it looks like the wrong choice as it's cracked every 6 inches and is starting to resemble a bomb site I have a different idea - I'll update how it's going, good or bad!
  20. It has held solid for another few days of horrendous weather so I am quite confident it will be ok, although after last night's wind I may get home and the shed is on top of it! It ripped the roof off my neighbour's extension, launched it over his house and destroyed his 2 Mercedes and his black taxi!
  21. it chucked it down with rain here last night, and the track was rock solid this morning. I had to reset one of the loop sections as I had set the radius too tight, and it took a bit of force to get the track to come away from the concrete, but what happens after a month of torrential rain remains to be seen!
  22. The glazing sealant works a treat - it hasn't set yet but it holds the track solid while allowing adjustments. It's designed to hold conservatories together so I reckon it'll be ok!
  23. If I can add my 2p here - I have found slotted concrete fence posts to be an invaluable source of pain-in-the-butt free track bed. They are reinforced, the slots when back-filled with earth make them rock-solid and they look great. Dig a straight trench with a hoe and spade and just drop them in!
  24. Me neither... I'm quite a "chuck it in and see what floats" type so let's see what happens in the days ahead!
  25. Gareth The Raspberry Pi works straight out of the box. I downloaded JMRI and it recognises the Sprog over a USB connection. With a £5 wifi dongle it connects to my ipad running withrottle and job done. The only problem I'm having is that I can't seem to get software to run from startup, which means I have to connect it to a screen in order to get it operating. Ideally I want it to run 'headless' and put the Pi in an enclosure with the Sprog and all power supplies and plug it all in outside but at the moment it's not happening. I think it's something to do with root access but I'm
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