mick

You should find it will connect to modern Peco/Hornby track but to be honest it isn't really worth it. It will doubtless be made of plain steel and be susceptible to rusting and if you are looking to purchase track then just that little bit extra will get you something so much better. Compared to the cost of a locomotive, modern track from the likes of Peco or Hornby is relatively inexpensive and being manufactured with nickel silver rails it should stand the test of time well. I wouldn't recommend economising on track as it's one of the most important aspects for trouble free running but that's just my personal opinion.

A very relevant point as I have some Tracksetta gauges on order and intend to write a short review of them in use. I'm hoping they will make laying out the sharper curves in the shed more successful and eradicate some/all of the derailments I have experienced in there.

If you intend to start out using a proprietary track system such as that made by Hornby or the 'introductory' Peco Setrack system, then they include curved track sections in 4 different radius' which, when constructed, will automatically give you the correct track spacing. It's always advisable to go for the largest radius curves you can accommodate in the space you have available so for a 2 track layout you would be best with 3rd & 4th radius if you have the room for them. There's no hard and fast rules regarding track spacing when using other track systems such as the more popular Peco Streamline range but I will point out that if you intend to have a crossover linking the 2 tracks (i.e. 2 points placed back to back so that a train can travel from one track to the other) then the points themselves will dictate the distance between your two tracks. As recommended by Chris, the Peco 6' way gauge pictured below (Peco SL-36) is a double sided gauge that can be used to successfully determine correct track spacings with both the Peco Setrack and Peco Streamline systems simply by turning it over. The pic shows the top spacings for the Peco Setrack system and the bottom spacing for Peco Streamline. The tabs simply fit between your rails and give the correct distance. I have a one-metre metal ruler which I use to maintain track centres on the straights and then even on my large radius curves I increase that slightly to ensure that opposing trains do not come into contact with each other as they go round. I'll shut up now before it gets any more confusing

I've now been using the Garryflex rubbers to clean the tracks on my outdoor layout for a couple of weeks and it has to be said that they really are the best track rubbers I have yet encountered. In fact I don't see any reason to look elsewhere for an alternative product. The size of the Garryflex rubber coupled with its low cost makes it an ideal purchase and it performs far better than anything I have tried previously. I have not found it necessary to use the medium grade at all - the fine grade does all that is asked of it. It's really hard to describe but in use there appears to be no friction whatsoever and it simply glides along the rail tops leaving a wonderful shining rail behind. Its large size means you can just about clean two tracks at the same time simply by holding the rubber at a slight angle to the tracks rather than at 90 degrees to them. The Peco track rubbers I used previously left noticeable amount of particles/grit behind after use which needed cleaning off the rail tops before running could commence. The Garryflex also leaves behind a deposit of loose particles but nowhere near as much as the Peco in my opinion. Performance of the Garryflex is also improved by dampening the rubber with a small amount of water. After use, I follow the Garryflex with a large 5" soft bristled paintbrush to brush away any loose particles and then a CMX track cleaner filled with IPA. During the past two weeks I have gone around the layout several times cleaning the rails with the Garryflex rubber and yet it shows minimal signs of wear. The Peco ones quickly deteriorate with a couple of grooves produced where the rubber is in contact with the rails. By shopping around you should find the Garryflex rubbers available at less than £4 each which for the time and hassle they will save you is remarkable value for money. If you use any other type of track rubber then I suggest you give the Garryflex a try.

When I'm out there next I'll think of you and either 'toot my horn' or 'blow my whistle' as the case may be With insulfrogs I would solder wires from the outer stock rails across to the point rails so that you weren't relying on the point blades to switch the power. I note it is also recommended to bond an additional wire across the point hinges where the point rails join the closure rails. This means that all the track surrounding the insulated 'V' of the crossing is live at all times no matter which direction the point blades are set. However, this can sometimes cause problems with coarser wheelsets 'shorting' where the frog rails meet the insulated 'V' and may require some remedial work with a small file to fine tune. Additional power feeds will still be added to each storage road I purchased the camera off a well-known auction site and it was delivered IIRC from Hong Kong as at the time I couldn't locate a UK supplier at the same cost. It was so cheap that I thought it was worth the risk and after a couple of weeks it duly turned up albeit with a broken accompanying CD. I believe they can be ordered directly in the UK now and also that HD versions are available. It is indeed good quality, especially considering the price. The jerkiness that you occasionally see I think is caused by it being at its processing/writing limit - perhaps a more efficient memory card would allow it to write more smoothly? The card I am using with it was also very cheap.

To be honest I'm not a lover of blowing the horn in fact I positively turn away from many YouTube videos where the horn outplays its welcome. I'm happy with just the sound of the loco but my reason for keeping things subdued isn't to do with the possibility that I might make a nuisance of myself but entirely in the interest of security. I know, "silly name to call a model railway when you're going to have concerns about attracting unwanted attention" but it's a bit late to change it now. In an ideal world there wouldn't be any cause to worry but sadly we don't live in perfect times. Whenever possible I'll remember to give a little 'toot' now and then Anyway, with some track and points ordered for the start of the shed sidings I've been thinking about point operation. I would be quite happy to settle for some form of simple mechanical switching if I thought it would be easy enough to access but being located close to the ground I imagine it wouldn't be too long before it became a pain in more ways than one. With that in mind electrical operation will be the way to go but even though my control of the layout is DCC I really can't see any advantage in adding expensive point decoders other than a saving in the length of wiring and a few switches. In addition, a flick of a switch is going to be far easier for me than pressing a series of buttons on a controller whilst perhaps also having trains under the control of the same handset. I think I've just about decided that it will be standard solenoid point motors and a few switches - unless anyone feels differently?

Back in October 2010 I posted some film taken with a mini camera depicting a ride around the layout seen from the cab of a class 47 locomotive. If you recall although the film was acceptable for a cheap mini camera costing around £10 IIRC, I did experience a lot of audio interference possibly from the DCC power to the track. Shortly after that I noticed a similar mini camera also around the same price but to a different design and so I sent away for one in order to compare the two. It arrived not long after but was put to one side and almost forgotten about until today. So, with nothing better to do until my track and point order arrives I thought I would give it a try. Unlike the previous mini camera this one is in the shape of a small torch and fits nicely onto a spare bogie bolster wagon that I had available. It also fits comfortably under the bridge where the layout crosses over itself. Both camera's take a micro SD card - the one I use being a 4GB version. Here's some photos of the new 'torch-like' mini camera simply placed within its plastic cradle which is secured onto a bogie bolster wagon with the aid of some blutack. The photos are for illustration only - the camera not being perfectly aligned on the wagon for filming purposes. http://www.selbygardenrailway.co.uk/images/views/IMG_4766.jpg' alt='URL>'> http://www.selbygardenrailway.co.uk/images/views/IMG_4767.jpg' alt='URL>'> http://www.selbygardenrailway.co.uk/images/views/IMG_4768.jpg' alt='URL>'> The camera body itself is very robust and it's also easy to handle. A screw-on metal cap on the rear gives access to the memory card slot and on-off switch as well as a connector for a USB cable to hook up to your computer. The button on top of the unit starts/stops recording. As for the quality, well here's the first video taken using this camera and uploaded to YouTube. The upload and YouTube processing affects the final image because the video is smoother when played back directly on my computer. 872zCsUh-D8

Okay, no suggestions awaiting me after my nights sleep so I've gone ahead and ordered sufficient items to add a number of storage roads to one running line but have I chosen wisely? that remains to be seen or discovered and you'll find out the moment I do.

All very quiet today....?? Here there's been no progress with the construction of my indoor storage sidings but I have been giving it a lot of thought. The trouble is that the more thought I give it the more perplexed I become. It's not a difficult decision to make - I'm almost there, but I'm worried that the moment I place an order for the points I will wish I'd chosen differently. I've discounted small radius curves which have a radius of 24 inches and large radius are just too big for the space available. That leaves me firmly decided on the 36 inch medium radius which is the easy bit. Now, I would ordinarily choose electrofrog over insulfrog every time but for outdoors I'm not sure the benefits would be worth the additional wiring and frog switching. That, and the fact that they are going to be more susceptible to the cold and damp makes me feel that insulfrog with its limited wiring would be preferable. So perhaps its insulfrog. Finally, the 3-way point would seem to offer everything I desire in a space of only 8.66 inches - one road quickly and easily into three separate roads. But will the complicated structure of the point and its ability to maintain reliable running be affected by the increased levels of dust and damp prevalent in the shed area? Would I be safer going for a standard point and accepting the fact that I'll require twice the space to gain the three roads? If I had to order right now before I go to bed I'd go for the 3-way - but I may have changed my mind by the time I get up in the morning!

It wasn't the lack of detail that always put me off the likes of Wrenn (not so much Hornby Dublo as I never saw much of those) but the 'chunkiness' of everything, especially the valve gear. Even now I couldn't bring myself to purchase any of the much more recent Hornby 'Railroad' versions because of the size of the valve gear and associated coupling rods. It's a shame that the split-frame chassis is so problematic to would-be DCC'ers as there are some good models under that umbrella. I've just about rid myself of all my old split-chassis locos now without ever considering having them converted. There are some cracking locos available these days that I'm sure are as good as, if not better than, some of the old tin plate models of yesteryear when it comes to haulage. I've found that it's not just the weight of the loco but also the entire mechanism that powers them and modern day electrical motors, pick-ups, gearing and drive systems are as good as anything that's gone before. I like a bit of nostalgia but give me a modern day Bachmann loco any time.

DAPOL FEA 'Spine Wagon' I've owned my short rake of FEA wagons for quite a while now but they've remained in their boxes since purchase. The problem for me is that once the wagons are permanently coupled together in pairs I don't have anywhere to store them and of course, they won't fit back into their boxes without uncoupling them again. The wagon depicted here is a standard Dapol issue in the green 'Freightliner' livery. The first thing you notice when opening the box is how well packaged the wagons are. They are held in place by two clear plastic mouldings, one of which fits over the other, and the two sections are cellotaped together on each edge and side with the wagons held securely within. It does take some time to remove all the cellotape to get at the wagons and great care has to be take when removing them from the plastic moulding as they have a wealth of very fine detailed pipework that is easily damaged by clumsy fingers if you're not careful. The wagons come packed as pairs and require coupling together by means of the included plastic coupling bar and 2 small screws. In fact Dapol kindly supply 2 coupling bars and 4 screws so that you have some spares which is a very welcomed idea. Also included in the detailing pack are 2 screw couplings, 2 brake pipes and a spare handbrake wheel as well as two sheets of moulded plastic spigots to hold the containers in place. The photo below shows how the 2 wagons are coupled together using the coupling bar and 2 small screws. The screws simply prevent the coupling bar coming adrift and allow it plenty of free movement The bogie area is rather plain and uninteresting compared to other areas of the wagon. You see a lot of fine detail when admiring the wagon from a normal viewing angle..... ..but it's when the wagon is upturned and you view from below that the attention to detail can really be appreciated. The wagons are nice and heavy, even in their unloaded state, and are exceptionally free running. As soon as they are placed on track or on a worktop you have to prevent them from running away! The painting is very nice and the lettering is very well applied and perfectly legible in spite of my rather iffy camera work. The Dapol FEA is a welcome addition to the modern railway modeller scene and it's difficult to see how Dapol could have made this one any better. I've not been tempted by many Dapol products in the past but the FEAs really do seem to have set a new standard and they are certainly up there with the very best from the bigger manufacturers.

If I decide to have the points in a covered area on the approach to the shed then I think it best that they are motorised. I want the opening into the shed itself to be as small as possible (who knows, it may have to revert to being just a shed some day) so that would remove the possibility of accessing the points from inside. I'm going to have to have a good think about it as there are so many options to consider. The radius of the bends is a concern because of the silly cam type couplings on much of the stock, including several locos. I've changed a lot of the couplings already but I have found that performance is drastically reduced the sharper the curves the stock has to negotiate. Happily the Dapol FEA mentioned earlier has a fixed coupling held in place by a central screw so that it can simply turn left/right as required. That's all that's needed for it to go round curves and there's no chance of it snagging up.

I've just placed a Dapol FEA spine wagon on the kitchen worktop to grab a few photos so here's a quick overall view of a single flatbed. I will add the remaining photos as http://www.selbygardenrailway.co.uk/sgrforum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=128' rel="external nofollow">a brief review of the Dapol FEA wagon in the Model Railway Products section. http://www.selbygardenrailway.co.uk/sgrforum/gallery/image.php?album_id=7&image_id=130' alt='URL>'>

It's in a bad way Chris and I didn't take enough care with the construction hence the reason that the track on top is all over the place. It would also be better if positioned elsewhere because even though it's good to see, it's not easy to get any great shots of trains going over it without getting the house wall in the background. I'd almost made up my mind to replace it and while it will need replacing, perhaps I should look again at using concrete? The viaduct was my incentive to build - maybe now I know a little more I can make a better job the next time.

Mentioned before but as yet never seen on the Selby Garden Railway, today I've been assembling my rake of Dapol FEA 'spine wagons' and what magnificent wagons they are. Even in an empty state devoid of any containers they are nice and heavy and they have an amazing level of detailed pipework. They are so finely detailed that great care needs to be taken when handling and assembling them. They come boxed as unconnected pairs that require fixing together using the supplied connector and two small screws. Worth mentioning here is the fact that Dapol provide more than enough components for the job leaving you with a nice selection of spare parts. I'll give more details regarding the FEAs later when I've had chance to take a few photographs - suffice to say that I now have 6 pairs coupled together, loaded with a small number of containers and ready for action. It's a pity that the RTR manufacturers never seem to release associated products such as containers in sufficient numbers to meet demand and to enable you to obtain a reasonable supply for the wagons you buy. The Dapol ones are now all sold out. I've been taking a look inside the shed and trying to work out the best way to add more sidings whilst ensuring that the roads are of sufficient length for my longest trains. Obviously there has to be compromises and while large radius curves look nice out in the garden they're obviously not going to fit inside the shed. But what size radius should I consider to be the absolute minimum? I've just had the tape measure out and currently the ones inside the shed are approx 30inches minimum radius which doesn't look nice but uses the available space to best advantage. I've had problems with derailments inside the shed, particularly with intermodal wagons, but the track has never been laid permanently and isn't 100% level which may be a contributing factor. Parts of the indoor track are sitting on an underlay of cork tiles and the remainder isn't so there's a difference in levels at that point. Having just tried the Dapol FEAs on a section of old Hornby 3rd radius track they negotiate it with no problems - even passing over an ancient Hornby 'very' small radius point. What I have been considering is laying a series of points as a 'junction' on the outside of the entrance to the shed - perhaps under cover in a specially built housing so that the maximum space is available indoors for storage purposes. 3-way points would seem ideal for such limited space and would immediately give me 6 full-length roads inside but I will have to check the point radius. I'm also considering adding cross-overs so that stock can be run-round in the shed and worked in the opposite direction rather than being restricted to operating one way all the time. I've got enough stock so it's time to get something running.

That looks a great product which is sure to be of use to a garden railway modeller as well as to the general 'gardener'. I'll embed the YouTube video below.

DCC has obvious advantages over standard DC and certainly its slow speed control is beyond compare. However, as I have learned myself, to get the very best from it you really do need to put the effort into getting your track properly laid to begin with. You've also got to have a strict regime of track and wheel cleanliness otherwise you'll encounter nothing but frustration. A momentary loss of power for just a split second and apart from a stuttering loco you could find the DCC sound restarts from the beginning and your loco's lights go out - not very prototypical at all although some DCC chips (but not all) can be programmed to overcome this. I'm sure that DC users feel just as much in control of their train as a digital user but the advantage for me in DCC train control is that without any additional wiring or electronics I can control 2 or more trains individually on the same track at the same time. You really can 'drive' (and periodically blow the horn if you so wish ) With so many apparent advantages you would expect that DCC would quickly become the standard for OO gauge train control but it's far from that at the moment which shows that not everyone embraces its qualities. A look at the RTR manufacturers catalogues shows that the major companies also fully support both systems. There are still lots of modellers using analogue DC to control their trains and getting true enjoyment from them but I'm sure that the latest generation of OO gauge railway modellers will be weaned off onto DCC. My entry into model railways was with an old analogue controller and it's that experience that has guided me to where I find myself today. If DC was the only system of control available to me today I think I would still be out there in the garden doing similar to what I do now - albeit without blowing my horn so much . It's not just about the type of control you have but how you build and operate your model railway. Would I be satisfied with a layout like the 'Kirkfield and Warmthorpe' but using standard DC control? - absolutely!

Good job I put some thought into it then Anything else you want to know Dave I'm always here to help

Can be confusing so here's hoping I can explain it clearly for you. OO and HO refer to two individual scales. OO represents a scale of 4mm to the foot (or 1/76) while HO represents a scale of 3.5mm to the foot (or 1/87). Track such as that available from Peco which I use for my OO gauge outdoor line is actually made to HO scale but is suitable for use with both HO and OO scales so you will see it advertised as suitable for OO/HO use. The real railways in this country operate on track which has a gauge (distance between the two rails) of 4ft 8 1/2 inches which in model form equates to a distance of 16.5mm between the 2 rails (worked out at HO scale 1/87). So model railway track with a 'gauge' of 16.5mm (made to HO scale) is suitable for both OO and HO scale use but is actually about 2mm underscale (or too narrow) when used with OO rolling stock. As far as I am aware, I think the UK is the only country which uses the OO scale (models made to 1/76 scale for running on 1/87 scale trackwork)- all other countries adopting the slightly smaller but entirely correct HO scale. That being the case I'm not sure why I refer to my outdoor line as an OO 'gauge' Garden Railway or why I call this forum an OO 'gauge' Garden Railway Forum. It's just a term that is accepted and taken for granted. To be more precise, what I actually have is an OO scale garden railway (rolling stock at 1/76 scale) operating on HO scale track (manufactured to 1/87 scale).

I'm the typical "jack of all trades master of none" type of person but I do feel as if I've accomplished something over the past few days. The shed is now more comfortable to be in (even got curtains up) and I'm not having to step over things to move around in there. It's a pleasure to be able to sit looking through the shed windows watching the trains circling around and with the controller within easy reach. I've also got somewhere to place my mug of coffee. I've spent some time getting rakes sorted out and running sweetly. I've cured the derailments with the Intermodals and improved the running of the IPA car transporter and cargowaggon rake. I've attended to some track irregularities and made running more enjoyable both operationally and from a viewing perspective. However, it's all to a level that I'm content with myself and not to one that would win any acclaim (especially the hanging of the curtains!). It's hardly show material. I agree - it would seem wasteful to take up the track within the shed for realignment without adding a siding or two. The 2 roads at present can hold the 3 trains I have been using over the past few days. The intermodals require one full road to themself whilst the Autoballasters and the IPA/Cargo waggon rake can sit on a road together. I'm not sure I can add a large number of sidings whilst retaining reasonable radius curves so I'll see how things go. I have 2 full rakes of MGRs, Tilcon stone hoppers, HTA coal, TEA tanks, FEA containers and HEA coal that all require their own roads when in use. That's not to mention the HST, DMUs and of course the preserved steam operations! Told you I needed a bigger shed.

More 'padding' out of some track sections today but the majority of my time was spent inside the shed. I've never really fully completed anything in the shed since it was erected. The wiring and controls has always been at floor level making it difficult to see out of the windows while operating and I never got round to putting any kind of seat in there. I've now fitted a couple of shelves below the windows to hold the transformer and upon which I can rest the hand-held controller. I've routed the wiring from the tracks up to the shelves where it can connect to the controller and be out of harms way and I've added a trailing mains socket making it easier to plug other electrical items in. In addition I've put the base off an old computer chair in there to act as a stool so that I can take the weight off my feet! I'm not sure what happened to the backrest. Now that the floor area has been tidied (I've had the vacuum in there today too) I can get to the track itself and try to ease the radius of the curves.

Agree with you on the standard Hornby chip. The one I had in a DCC fitted class 56 loco lasted for less than a circuit before expiring. I have had no problems (yet) with the standard Bachmann chips and these are still available at reasonable cost. I have yet to try a Hornby 'Sapphire' but by all accounts they are much better than the standard Hornby offering. I've never considered the light problem. Sure, there have been occasions when I've lost the lights and had to switch them off and then on again but never gave it another thought. Better take a bit more notice in future.

If I had to name one single retailer who offered great service, competitive prices and prompt delivery then it would have to be Hattons Model Railways. I say that only as a very satisfied customer and I have no other connection with the company. Hattons are based in Liverpool, have retail premises if you are able to pay a visit or offer a mail order service if you are more distant. Check out their website for details of track and almost anything else model railway related that you can imagine. I have made satisfactory purchases elsewhere but Hattons would always be my number one choice.

Filming trains running round the garden and watching them back again later is almost as exciting for me as actually running the trains in the first place. You see your trains and your layout from a different perspective on video but you're also constantly reminded of the work that has yet to be done. Telephoto shots especially tend to highlight any track irregularity no matter how small or insignificant it might be. In most cases you would never be aware of a dip in the track at normal viewing distance but on video it's there clearly for all to see. The real railways have dips and bumps too so from a viewing perspective it's not vital that each and every one are painstakingly eased, the areas of main concern to me are the curve sections because on video it appears that most of mine tend to show the loco leaning to the outside rather than into the curve itself. Looking back over your video footage helps to highlight the areas most in need of attention. For instance, the view along my viaduct, especially when compressed by zooming in on an approaching loco, really does make the track look in bad state of repair. Under normal viewing it honestly doesn't look anywhere near so bad but I know it needs seeing to soon. I've done a bit of 'padding out' today using thin strips of clear plastic placed beneath the sleepers and it does make a massive difference when video footage is compared afterwards. It's an ongoing job....

$10,000 for a model viaduct? What size were they quoting for? On reflection I just might discard my viaduct section in favour of a platform/station area. I'm not sure I'm up to the task of constructing a concrete one at the moment and the other 'to do' jobs are rapidly stacking up.