mick

Good start there Duncan. What a wonderful location for an outdor model railway. And to think I was recently complaining about having to dig over a small area of 6ft by 3ft in my back garden just feet from the house I'll be interested to see what can be done with the Duracell power packs. Is it possible to use them to power the controllers? Sorry, I don't know anything about electronics....

One of the things I have been careful with since starting construction of the Selby Garden Railway is to ensure that when laying track I incorporate sufficient gaps between each section for expansion of the rails during warm weather. I've seen how rails can buckle in the heat out on the real railway but up to now I've not had any problems in model form. Today however I've had to cut a few millimetres from a section of track within the shed that had reached its limits - mind you, it was blooming warm in there! http://www.selbygardenrailway.co.uk/images/views/IMG_5431.jpg' alt='URL>'> There are a couple of other sections that I'll have to keep an eye on where the expansion gaps have just about closed up but once the buckled section had been rectified I enjoyed my first running session for several weeks. A few weeks ago I managed to obtain an extension socket for my Gaugemaster Prodigy controller. Up to now I've been restricted to controlling movements from within the shed or by using an outstretched arm to lean out of the door in order to see around the corner. Now I can stand 2 metres or more away from the shed and even sit down on the patio area with the controller on my lap. I haven't permanently installed the socket yet as I'm trying to work out the best position for it but it's certainly better than before.

Looking forward to the piccies Duncan. It'll be good to see the area cleared to better gauge what you've got to work with but it does look like it's going to be hard work.... Anyway, I'm sure the Wynnstay Arms will come to your rescue should it be needed.

The TCS DP2X-UK looks an excellent choice Duncan and from my limited knowledge I would say that 1 amp continuous rating along with the 2 amp peak would be more than adequate for the class 25. The fact that it doesn't have an harness and attached plug is even better, making installation a lot neater. I'd not heard of 8 pin decoders without wire harness and plug until recently and was wondering why there were none available. It's obviously down to space restrictions as I see the TCS DP2X-UK is too large to fit in some locos - fortunately the Bachmann 25 isn't one of those listed on the Bromsgrove website.

The instructions with my CMX mention the same thing regarding the use of 600+grit abrasive paper and I managed to get sheets of 600 and also 1200 grit to try it out. It does work but I find it better to go round with the 'Garryflex' and save the CMX for the fluid clean. Mind you, I don't have nearly so much track to clean as you and so it's not such a problem. I also prefer to use a loco to propel the cleaner round whenever possible to ensure that the loco isn't picking up all the dirt beforehand.

I've been doing a spot of 'housekeeping' to merge some of your previous posts and responses into this thread - hope it's easy to follow. Not sure how many class 25s I've got.... but I haven't fitted any of them with a decoder myself. I recently disposed of one that was DCC ready as part of my ongoing attempt at thinning out some surplus stock being a separately purchased body on a previously purchased chassis that didn't quite fit together. As for decoders it would seem that everyone has their particular favourites. I've not had any problems with the standard Bachmann decoders but have had failed Hornby decoders. I've tended so far to purchase the budget types in order to keep costs to a minimum but I know it's sometimes false economy to do so. With a preference for sound-fitted locos, choice of decoder is almost immaterial and I've tended to hold back on purchasing the standard decoders where I have plans for obtaining sound decoders for a particular loco in the future. The class 37 would be an excellent choice and an ideal introduction to DCC sound. All but one of the ones I have that are sound-fitted have the standard factory fitted sound chips installed which isn't too bad but becomes just a bit too predictable after a while. It's also low on volume. I have one example that was reblown for me which is better as it responds to how you drive but is still a little on the quiet side and so I'll be trying the 'Howes' version next. Unfortunately sound-fitted locos are more expensive than standard models so it might not be just the excitement of getting your hands on one that will keep you awake at night. However, once you hear one there really is no comparison.

Following on from the success of our potato barrels last year, this year we have set aside even more containers containing potato plants in the hope that we can have a good crop available for a longer period. Last year we used 2 purpose designed plastic terracotta effect potato barrels (which are somewhat expensive) as well as 3 smaller heavy duty plastic potato sacks. These can be seen below: The terracotta barrels have a sliding section at the base which can be raised in order to harvest potatos from the lower half of the barrel. A good indication as to when the potatoes are ready is that it gets very difficult to slide the plastic section upwards once the tubers have swelled inside! The sliding section also allows you to keep a check on the moisture content of the soil and during the warmer days last year I was watering on a daily basis. The smaller reinforced plastic containers seen alongside aren't quite as deep and dont have any sliding access panels. In the larger barrels I have planted 5 seed potatoes, the smaller ones contain just 4. In order to increase the crop this year I am using 2 additional plastic dustbins which have been drilled at the base to aid drainage. In these I have planted 6 seed potatoes and I'm hopeful that they'll give a good crop. The lower photo shows the newly emerged shoots near the base of the bin. As the shoots grow upwards more compost is added until finally the whole bin is filled and the shoots emerge clear of the top. In theory you should then be able to produce a decent crop of potatoes throughout the whole depth of the bin.

As mentioned earlier, the basis of my vegetable patch are 3 small raised beds measuring just 6ft in length and 3ft wide. Here's a photo of the final raised bed during initial digging of the plot: Yes, that mound of earth at the top of the bed, on the plastic sheeting over the lawn and in the wheelbarrow, is actually the good top soil! As an indication of the quality of the soil perhaps is the fact that there wasn't a single weed other than the layer of turf which I removed before starting the dig - neither were there any worms. It was backbreaking work, the clay being a solid mass but I did eventually manage to break it up before adding sharp sand and compost. The first 2 beds I dug weren't quite such hard work and they are now home to some promising vegetables - even if it is mainly the common pea! The lawned area has always been of very poor quality and so using part of it to grow vegetables isn't a big deal. Might as well make better use of it if we can. There's still a bit of lawn remaining as can be seen in this photo taken from the top of the garden:

There's no prizes for finishing first Dave so take your time and just let us know what's happening when you can. One loco or a hundred loco's, there's enjoyment to be had no matter how large your fleet might or might not be. Why not consider operating your line as a type of preserved railway where not a lot of stock is required. A few coaches and a couple of locos would be sufficient in order to include some variety during running sessions. Less is often more, as they say.

Oh my... that looks to be quite a task you've got there Duncan but I'm sure that if it's something you are both looking forward to doing then it's going to be worth every bit of sweat. If I was a bit closer I'd offer to help out - it's going to be quite some transormation. It's funny you should mention the vegetable garden because that's what I've been doing recently and my partner has got herself involved too which has made it all the more pleasant. It's good to hear that you enjoy the isolation too. We've just got back from the west coast of Scotland where you can go for miles without meeting upon anyone and it's by far our most favourite part of the country. Now if only we could combine the model railway, the gardening and the west coast of Scotland! Great selection of photos so I'm looking forward to the ongoing progress.

....which is one reason why I've not spent so much time on the layout recently. I don't have a large garden, certainly not big enough for a proper vegetable plot, but after successfully growing a few potatoes in tubs last year I decided this year to go one step further and grow some other vegetables. I've got my potatoes growing again, in fact I've increased production this year with the addition of two large dustbins so I'm hoping for a bigger total yield. Growing potatoes in barrels or tubs takes up far less room than conventional methods meaning they can be grown on the patio when space is limited. With careful tending they can produce excellent yields although results last year were variable with the last barrel to be harvested producing the best results in both weight and the number of individual tubers. There isn't any financial saving on potatoes purchased from the local supermarket but the difference in taste has to be experienced to be believed. We have certainly not had any potatoes as nice as those we grew at home last year. Ongoing costs for growing potatoes decreases once you have obtained sufficent barrels or tubs in which they can be grown - requiring just a good quality compost along with your seed potatoes. I placed the seeds potatoes on a windowsill to chit before planting in tubs at staggered intervals from early April onwards. Because my garden soil is heavy clay it would be almost impossible to grow anything without a lot of hard work and so I have constructed a series of 3 small raised beds which have been dug to a depth of one and a half spades (not including the handle!) with the bottom soil broken up well and a dressing of sharp sand and compost/farmyard manure added. It's going to take a couple of years before it's ideal but at least it gives me a start. Already I have peas, beans, turnips, onions, carrots, sprouts and salad lettuce at various stages of development. They may or may not be successful but I feel it's important that something is growing. The idea behind it isn't to save money but simply to be able to eat our own freshly harvested vegetables directly from the garden. It's been a lot of hard work and I'm not nearly so fit as I used to be. In fact I have been digging one row at a time and then going inside for a rest - but I've now got it all done. I'll include some photos later showing how things stand at the present time.

Again, lots of useful information and some more excellent photos there Roy. Looking forward to seeing something running through those canted curves.

Hi Duncan, Welcome to the forum. The area around Torridon and along the Wester Ross coastal route must be some of the most scenic anywhere in the UK. We've experienced it in glorious sunshine as well as in the cold driving rain and it never ceases to delight whatever the weather. The landscape looks very different around Torridon at the moment as a result of the fires during the dry spell - it's all very scorched and charred. I use the Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance2 controller which has a maximum current of 3.5 amps. I've never noticed any problems whatsoever, even when I've had 4 sound fitted loco's running simultaneously, which is about as much as I care to handle. The only problem I have had is with the rotary knob on the hand-held controller. This doesn't always work correctly and so I've become accustomed to using only the buttons for increasing/decreasing speed until I get it sorted out. Looking forward to hearing how you get on. What sized area do you have available to you outdoors?

It's unusual to find the SGR way down in the list of recent thread updates but the fact that I've just been away on holiday and had placed everything on hold until my return has meant little progress up to now. It is my intention to get everything unpacked and back up and running as quickly as possible. This year we returned to the same location as in the previous year - Lochcarron, on the west coast of Scotland. It's an ideal base for exploring along the west coast. However, whereas last year at this same time we were fortunate to find plenty of sunshine, this year we had mainly showers with only brief glimpses of the sun. In addition, last year we didn't encounter the midges, this year we weren't so lucky. Returning home yesterday, a journey that takes us just short of 10 hours with 2 breaks along the way, the windscreeen wipers were on constantly from Lochcarron until we reached Scotch Corner and then the first thing I had to do when I got home was water the plants in the garden - how amazing's that?

That sounds great Roy. If you decide to stick with that one you can edit the title of your first post in this thread to reflect that name - or any other name you decide to use.

A covering of ice/frost is common for us hardier folk during winter time. (There's times during our summer when it isn't unknown!) Covers would help without any doubt but they'd really need to be implemented at the planning stage like those you have designed. I've not let it stop me before but perhaps in the future when there's frost or ice build up on the rail tops it's really the time for me to retire indoors and do something a bit more sensible.

That's exactly the point I made elsewhere recently. It's the same here - been waiting for nice weather to get outside into the garden and then find something else to do or that needs doing. Anyway, I've just got back from a week away and so that's why things have been on hold generally - I can get cracking again now. You can't be operating a garden railway without having a camera - you've got to take some photos to share with everyone!

Have you used the 'Rustins' brand Ian and would you recommend using that one to the 'Astonish: Flawless' brand mentioned/pictured previously? It'll be some time before I need to use either but I certainly intend having at least part of the SGR fully ballasted.

Looking forward to seeing this develop too. The existing wall bordering the lawn looks to be at an ideal height for the railway but like Ian, I'm not so sure about the use of fibreglass filler for setting the trackbed in to. There again I'm not so sure I understand exactly what fibreglass filler is so perhaps you can enlighten me/us further? Where the ground is close to the track level on my layout, I have found that falling rain can throw up a large amount of fine particles of soil/grit which needs clearing away before running can commence. Roy appears to have covered the explanation behind the requirements of a booster and although I don't claim to be fully aware my first thoughts were that it would only be required if you were planning to operate more than 3-4 trains at any one time. I can run 4 trains at once without any noticeable problems. Ensuring that you have continuity between every section of track by bonding all rail joins and by adding additional feeds to distant sections or by supplying feeds from a powerbus to every track section will ensure you have no problems with voltage drop or the like. It sounds like you've done a lot of forward planning and thinking this through. There are several ideas and plans that I'm looking forward to reading more about and although I haven't seen the RM article, the use of cassettes was something I had thought about myself. If there's a way to successfully use them for 11-12 coach trains then I'll have to take another look.

Yes, it's been so long since I last touched them that I'd forgotten how pleased I was with the rust effect on the last batch I did. I'm not sure just how successful the instanter couplings will prove to be but they add to the realism and although it's a painfully slow process I can't wait to get the remainder fitted to be able to see the whole train in action. I've got a few other wagons to add to the rake for a bit of variety, including some 21t hoppers - all require weathering yet.

Good to see a start has been made Dave. Despite all the fine weather over the past month it seemed like garden railway's had gone out of fashion when you'd have expected the forum to be heaving with regular updates. I'm guilty of that too - not having done anything with mine for a few weeks now but things are moving slowly behind the scenes. The posts look nice and sturdy. Are they set in concrete? Have you decided on a plan of action? Will we be seeing trains running in an end-to-end fashion during construction or will we have to wait until all the posts have been set in place and baseboards added before there's any movements?

I've now completed three wagons and that's about as much as I can endure for today. There's a knack to coupling the wagons together but with the aid of a short length of wire it's getting easier to do. The tricky part is putting the coupling into the short position but by the end of a couple of dozen attempts that too didn't seem too much of a problem. Even with the coupling in the short position there's still a fair distance between the buffers which is a shame, but I suppose it'll help to get them round sharp curves and through cross-overs.

It's almost 2 months since there was any progress with the 16t mineral wagons but today I've finally managed to get round to fitting my first scale Instanter coupling which can be seen on the wagon pictured below. The first thing that strikes me when looking at the wagon is how big those lumps of coal are but they're not really so prominent as they might appear here. The links of the coupling need squeezing together a bit more when I go back downstairs. Here's a few more photos of the same wagon: For someone as clumsy as myself (all fingers and thumbs) the links are extremely fiddly to assemble and I'm sure it's going to be no easier to couple the wagons together but I won't be doing any shunting so once they're coupled that will be it. To fit the couplings to the wagon you first have to remove the chassis. The plastic coupling hook is then sliced off with a sharp craft knife and a slot made in the bufferbeam to accept the new metal coupling hook. I simply used a craft knife to cut the slot but others drill a series of holes using a small drill and then enlarge the slot that way. The new coupling hook comes with a spring and a split-pin to create a working sprung coupling but I found there wasn't sufficient room to fit the spring so the coupling has been permanently glued in place. Looks great I think...!

It's much the same with the CMX cleaner - you need a hefty, powerful loco to get it moving and that usually means coupling up to a diesel. I've not yet had any success moving the cleaner in either direction with a steam loco. I can understand the need to consider if something costing upwards of £80 is actually worth the price when there are loco's and other items of rolling stock on the shopping list but when you can send it out at any time during a session and immediately experience improved running qualitites then it shows it was money well spent. I used to go round with a dampened cloth to obtain similar results before getting the cleaner, but the CMX makes it so much easier. It's also ideal late in the day when you seem to get that bit of dampness on the rail tops which can result in loss of electrical contact. A pass over with the cleaner and you're off and running again.

The gallery photo's look excellent Tony, including those of your indoor set up. Perhaps, if you have the time available, you might consider starting a thread in the indoor layout section for that one and of course, the outdoor section for the garden running. For what it's worth, if you do decide to replace the boards I'd go with plywood again for the outdoors. That's the option I'd choose if I were starting over. It gives an almost perfectly level foundation for the track and, correctly protected, it 'should' last many years. I'm not entirely sure how sheets of plywood are manufactured other than it's a series of layers bonded together, but I have some old offcuts of standard exterior grade plywood in the garden that have had no additional protection and have been exposed to the elements for almost 2 years - they're still in excellent condition. On the other hand, I have some smaller offcuts of exterior grade plywood in which the layers have totally separated. It was all purchased from the same outlet. The grade is clearly no indication of it's quality. I look at the photos of Ian's Kirkfield & Warmthorpe Railway under construction (in the gallery section) where Ian thins the felt adhesive with white spirit and applies a wash to the plywood sections before going on to fixing the felt itself with an undiluted coating and it just looks like it will last almost forever.