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mick

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Everything posted by mick

  1. You bet it is. Good progress and plenty of photographs is what we thrive on. With all those sidings (which look excellent by the way) you've got loads of operational possibilities and the steam/diesel sheds compliment the sidings perfectly. By the time you get a couple of station incorporated into the layout it's going to be one hive of activity. It's amazing how quickly you've got to this stage. Any progress on the turntable? I think it's going to be a case of try it and see. I don't think you're going to find many people with experiences of turntables outdoors so go for it. There's normally always a way!
  2. Seeing as the floor polish appears to have been successful at fixing down ballast with track laid on top of a layer of roofing felt, I've decided to do the same thing across the viaduct and lay a strip of roofing felt directly on top of the stone sections using a liberal coating of bitumen adhesive. The following photo shows the strip of felt on top of the stone sections and a length of wooden sleeper track added for effect. The length of track is one salvaged from my previous layout and has had a number of damaged sleepers removed hence the gaps. This photo also shows the gap down either side of the viaduct where I intend to run the bus wires and any other additional wiring that might be required such as that for a point motor. When I imagine a scene featuring a viaduct I immediately think of those black and white images of steam locos making their way across and so whether it's correct or not I think I'm going to have to go with the wooden sleeper track on the viaduct. I've tried the concrete sleeper track too but it just doesn't give the same sense of nostalgia! The following photo is just a mock up of where a set of points might be located to return to double track running. I'm wondering if one of the side-mounted point motors might be suitable for outdoor use in this location? They appear to be suitably protected within a plastic cover and I imagine that could be further sealed to prevent water ingress. It might be worth giving one a try. If not then I'm going to have to come up with another solution - I could make do with manual operation for a while but sooner or later it will have to be motorised.
  3. It appears that the layout has come through yesterday's downpour unscathed. The ballasted tracks are still nice and solid and there's no signs of any loose stone. The very top of the viaduct was absolutely dry but strangely some pieces of cut block that I had placed on top resembled sponges full of water. Perhaps this is because the top of the viaduct has been treated with water seal while the cut pieces have yet to be treated. Those cut blocks I just mentioned are to raise the level of the viaduct track bed up to that of the existing plywood base. I've decided not to use plywood on top of the viaduct and to lay the track directly on stone. If I can use pins to temporarily hold the track in place I will do so but failing that I will use a small amount of instant grab adhesive on a few selected sleepers. Once the track is ballasted it should be nice and secure. I need to be careful to ensure that the floor polish, used to fix the ballast in place, will adhere to whatever the track is laid on and so I've not yet decided whether or not to lay a piece of roofing felt stuck on top of the block sections with the usual bitumen adhesive. The following photo shows a view along the top of the viaduct with a line of cut block sections upon which the track will eventually be laid. The smaller pieces have been cut to clear the drainage holes that I drilled yesterday. Another decision I have yet to make is whether to lay wooden or concrete sleeper track across the viaduct. I like the look of the wooden sleepers once it is ballasted but I'm sure that the Worsley Dale civil engineers wouldn't have done all this work to the viaduct without relaying the track on top. It may have to be concrete but we'll see.
  4. Strange how you miss someone when they've been absent from the forum for an entire day. "Come back Griff - the forum's not quite the same without you!"
  5. Thanks for the comments Ian and of course, you're welcome to drop by the forum any time you please. I think it proves that aerated blocks can be useful as the basis for similar structures. The cutting out and creation of the arches takes only a few minutes and the blocks do cut and carve very easily. It's a relatively simple task to cement them in place alongside one another and of course, to create a curved viaduct should you so wish. That's one of the major benefits in my opinion - the fact that you can build your viaduct to any shape. I think the only drawback is that you are more or less restricted to the height of the block - I'm not sure how stable it would be should you decide to go higher with additional pillar sections. Still, the height of the blocks gives a pretty impressive viaduct as it is. These types of structures really bring a garden layout to life. They look impressive even without a train in sight. I think this time I can landscape the area to make the viaduct blend in with the overall garden rather than it being as prominent as the one I did back in Selby. And what's more, I don't have to worry about this one getting wet, in fact the changeable conditions can only help to add natural weathering to it.
  6. Just before it got dark I had a quick check over the viaduct and the ballasted track to see if the heavy downpour we had around teatime had caused any obvious damage. At first glance it appears that everything's fine but I'll take a closer look tomorrow morning. The viaduct certainly appears to drain okay so that's good news.
  7. Do you think it would be better if they gave no indication of a delivery date? Most of the major manufacturers appear to have the same problems regarding new releases. Aren't they all fighting for the same production spaces with the same factory in China or something? I've had one particular loco on order for well over a year now and during that time its price has risen by almost £70! The pre-order guarantee states that I get the model at the price it was when originally ordered so I've got my fingers crossed for when it does eventually come out.
  8. Seeing as the rain's put a stop to any possibility of further work today I thought I'd take a look over my collection of loco's that have been packed away since we moved here last year. Although I'm looking forward to getting the garden layout up and running there's very little chance that I'll ever be able to make use of all these locomotives on an outdoor line that has been designed primarily as a preserved railway. I can ring the changes every so often of course so that there's something different on show but I can see that there are some loco's that may never get used. It's the same with rolling stock. I've got far too many coaches and wagons for the outdoor line. I could probably assemble at least one dozen lengthy rakes of coaches and still have spares. For instance I know for a fact that I have in the region of 20 or more Bachmann MK1s in Western Region brown & cream livery and wagon wise I have 2 full rakes of 36 x MGR wagons among others. When we moved here I initially envisaged an outdoor preserved line with certainly no more than half-a-dozen rakes of coaches and only sufficient wagons for 'track maintenance' purposes. I want enough locos to enable some variety and to be able to have special event days such as 'Blue Diesels', 'LNER' etc... I intended restricting operational locos to only those that are fitted with DCC sound. So what do I do with surplus stock? Do I hang on to it all just in case that 'loft layout' ever comes to fruition? Do I sell it on? Storing and gaining access to everything is beginning to create problems! I think it would be best for me to compile a stock-list of locos and coaches that I know will come in useful outdoors - those that I know I will use in one form or other. I also need to work out which coaches I will be running and find my track maintenance wagons and separate them from the remainder. Perhaps I should start a new thread somewhere so that I can maintain a current list of locos and rolling stock that could feature on Worsley Dale?
  9. Hmmmh. They say the position of the 'Jet Stream' influences our weather and that when it's to our north we have settled weather and when it's to the south we have unsettled weather. On netweather.com they have a http://www.netweather.tv/index.cgi?action=jetstream;sess=' rel="external nofollow">Jet Stream Forecast which attempts to predict its position for the coming days. They're currently predicting that the jet stream will be right on top of the country until at least the end of the month - which doesn't look good.
  10. Soldering doesn't come easy to some, me included, but I second Chris' points above: Everything needs to be shiny clean. Tin the side of the rail first so that you have some solder on there and then tin the wire. Then bring the two together with sufficient heat to melt the solder quickly. It's comical me even thinking of offering advice on soldering but the above has helped me and now occasionally I can create a soldered joint without any cussing and swearing whatsoever.
  11. I agree Chris, I think bonding the rail joins is best for the top of the viaduct and I'll add a power feed at each end. I've started adding some packing pieces from cut block sections to raise the level of the track base across the viaduct and I've reduced them in width so that I've got ample room down each side to conceal the bus wires. I'll perhaps add a cover to make it resemble a walkway down the sides once the track has been laid and ballasted. Sadly it's started raining so that's the extent of my efforts for today.
  12. mick

    Virgin

    I'm not up to date with the real railways so I'll have to read up on what this could mean, both to fare-paying passengers and to Virgin themselves. I could be way off the mark but I always thought 'Virgin' were okay. It's become a brand name you can just about feel comfortable with. Is there something I don't know?
  13. In our A-Z guide to OO gauge Garden Railways do we advise against overhanging trees then? We really should be making note of all these things.
  14. There's something about the class 47s and slightly uneven track. I had similar problems on the Selby layout where everything else appeared to run over okay but the 47s derailed. The 47 is a useful tool for testing your track and finding any problem areas! I've just been looking at my windmill and with the gusty breeze I've been trying to capture a photo of it in motion but my first attempts weren't too successful. Got nice blurred image of the sails rotating but the photos overexposed. Nicely exposed and you can barely tell the sails are moving. Have to have another attempt later. Here was the best attempt.....
  15. Here's today's photos as promised earlier. The first shows the location of the drilled drainage holes. I'm not sure off hand what size drill I've used to make the holes but it looks to be large enough to me. I may even add some carved feature with a recess on the rear to disguise the holes - maybe not - will see later. Being at the top of each pillar the drainage holes for each side of the viaduct are more or less opposite each other so I may enlarge the channels to improve the drainage further - again maybe, maybe not. And this shows the length of the viaduct with all the drainage holes in place. I hope this proves to be enough. As the track itself will be raised above the top surface by approx 20mm it should be okay.
  16. Ha ha ha! I've watched it 3 times already. What blooming birds do you get in your garden? If the size of the droppings are anything to go by and you do decide to shoot them (I wouldn't suggest you do that by the way), then you could always eat them! Do they perch on the fence?
  17. I'll add a few photos later because we're having some work done at the mo and I can't get to my usual computer but here's what I've got done this morning. I've just almost doubled the entire cost of the viaduct by purchasing a 5 litre can of water seal from the DIY. I've given all the exposed areas at the top of the viduct a couple of coats and will do the main structure when I've decided on the final finish. I've also drilled a series of drainage holes a short distance down through the sides of the viaduct and angled upwards to exit on the top surface. I've done this at the top of each main pillar and on both sides of the viaduct. I think that's a total of 26 drainage holes. I've read Fungus' advice to drill a hole larger than you would initially expect but this is the size I had in mind and looking at them I think it's going to be of sufficient diameter. Certainly the water seal solution runs down okay! I may just channel the top surface so the drainage holes actually run into each other - that might help get rid of excess water a bit quicker. It's almost ready for some track. '
  18. I'll have to see if there's a product recommended for blocks. The structure of the blocks are quite different once you cut into them. The outer is fairly solid while the inner is often what I can only describe as honeycombed. It's those inner sections, like I have used on top of the viaduct, that I'm most concerned about.
  19. A removable section for the crossover sounds like a good idea. How does the 'veroboard' work? I know what one is but how do you intend it will help reduce the wiring for the points? I have to consider my first set of 'outdoor' points soon, the one close to the viaduct, so I'm on the look out for some 'pointers'
  20. Right, drainage holes it is then. Hopefully I can drill them at a point where any water run off will add some nice staining down the sides of the viaduct itself! I had thought of adding downpipes but I think there's only so much you can attempt outdoors. It was also my original intention to incorporate some refuge points along the viaduct but I thought better of that too. I think the finer points (pardon the pun) are better suited to layouts housed indoors. Does anyone have any experience of these aerated blocks? They are regarded as 'frost resistant' but I'm wondering if I ought to apply some kind of water sealant? I don't suppose they would normally be used in such an exposed way as the basis for a viaduct and I'd hate for it all to crumble mid-winter! Any thoughts?
  21. The coping stones do make a very effective retaining wall Andy, especially when viewed up close. I think a big part of the attraction with garden layouts, certainly it is for me, is taking photographs and trying to recreate a scene that looks realistic. For that you need suitable backdrops which is where different types of foliage, rocks, and 'coping stones' among many other things, come into their own. You need to find the most suitable place on your layout which is easily accessible and allows you to get close to the track and you need a backdrop in front of which you can take photos of your rolling stock. Those last uploads show how effective the coping stones are. Problem on the outer curve? It looks smooth enough on the photo. Have you placed the edge of a ruler or similar device along the rail tops to check for bumps or hollows? Have you checked across the pair of rails to ensure they are level with each other? I know you probably will have done both but it's always better to sort such problems out as quickly as possible - it can ruin your running sessions.
  22. I've about had enough for today - there's only so many little bricks you can handle in a day, but before I pack away for the night I've been testing an idea for laying the track over the viaduct and wondered what everyone thought. First, 37417 spent some time idling away on top of the viaduct with his solitary little wagon and I think he really looks the part up there. I'd positioned 37417 on a length of track laid along the viaduct but resting on some block off-cuts to raise the level to the same as the existing plywood baseboards. I'm thinking that instead of laying plywood along the viaduct that I should be able to fasten the track directly to the off-cuts of aerated block that will be permanently fixed to the viaduct top. The next photo illustrates this better. I can fill in the voids with perhaps a mortar mix or even more off-cuts before ballasting the track but should I allow for drainage from the channel created by adding the sidewalls or will rainwater naturally seep away through the blocks which are very porous? I wondered if I should drill some drainage holes within the arches or just beneath the ledge I have now created. I don't really want it filling with water every time it rains. I'm also trying to decide what to do with the bus wires. I'd thought about running them along the top of the viaduct rather than outside of it. Perhaps with using the off-cuts to raise the track bed the best place would be along each side of the track so I could still get to them if necessary?
  23. I don't believe what I've just done. I've been out in the garden all day and came in at around 2pm for lunch. As is usual, I went to the bedroom to change out of my old dirty 'working' trousers to put on a decent pair of trackie bottoms so that we could sit down to eat. After a nice meal I went back outside and continued working on the viaduct. I've been glueing sections of blocks to the top of the viaduct with exterior 'Evo Stik' which gets everywhere. When it gets on my hands I wipe it on my trousers. Just come indoors again to change back out of my work trousers while I upload some photos and guess what .......?? You've got it - still got my decent trackie bottoms on haven't I Glue? don't ask! So yes, I've been out doing the viaduct top walls as already said. I cut out a whole lot of aerated block sections - thin ones for the ledge and thicker ones for the actual wall uprights. That's some of the cut blocks in the photo below. The idea is to glue the thin pieces flat onto the viaduct top and then stand the walls on them so that they create a protruding ledge. In the next photo some of the the flat sections have been glued in place and a few wall sections are standing on top to gauge the effect. Satisfied that it would look okay I began gluing the walls in place on top of the ledges but standing slightly back from the front edge. Here's how it looked earlier from the opposite side: And this is a close up of the block sections. They're by no means perfectly in line but that's only really evident on close inspection. At normal viewing distance the effect looks pretty good. I've got just a few more to glue in place and then I can think about getting some track across and then making the cut into the shed! There's a couple more photos of todays work in My Gallery that haven't been included in this post.
  24. I'm not too keen at the moment on the ballasted concrete sleeper track. I think I should have painted the sleepers first because they're a very unrealistic creamy colour but I guess they'll weather in time. Perhaps if the ballast proves resilient enough I'll give it all a coat of weathering to tone it down a bit. The wooden sleeper track looks the business - really pleased with that. I just hope that it stays in place. Well we've had our dry spell of weather (summer?) and the forecast for the coming days reverts back to wet and windy. I've not got as far forward as I had hoped to be by this time, mainly due to the fact that I've spent a few days altering the sleepers but I've got some lengths of track ballasted and I'm going to find out if it will stand up to the rain for sure. I'd really hoped to have made a start on the viaduct top sidewalls so that I could then move on to the shed interior but maybe I can still do this even if the weather isn't too kind. Getting track on top of the viaduct will be a massive step forward.
  25. Well given that the only sections I am ballasting are those that I've just laid down I think I'm going to give it a try. How many preserved railways have perfectly level trackwork anyway and isn't the maximum speed 25mph? Craig: I know I had some mistakes to remedy on the old Selby railway but I think outdoors that's what we have to expect and accept. The baseboards are continually expanding and contracting, the ground settles, dries out and cracks. Things are going to move around and out of alignment. Even real railways get bumps in the track at times. I think as Ian points out, small defects could be remedied pretty easily just by picking out the ballast from between a few sleepers. If it ever came to the point where I had to lift a whole section then so be it - it's something I'll deal with if ever the need arises. I want to get something finished and start running some trains.
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