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  1. Hello, I was wondering if someone may be able to point me in the right direction of a basic radio control set up? I have limited experience with soldering so I'm just looking for something basic - my layout is still at the planning stage and won't be prototypical - so I'm looking for the easiest locomotive to convert. Thanks!
    2 points
  2. A little video update.
    2 points
  3. Hi, Your question on Youtube, that video is unlisted but can be found on near the top of page one of this journal. I'm going to re-make it with all of the wagons and locos stored at Dad's but in my garden.
    1 point
  4. If there's one thing I'm not short of (other than Hornby A4's) it's Bachmann class 37s! However, some of them are a good few years old now and although they're all operational some of them run more smoothly than others so it's just a case of me determining which one(s) would make the best donor(s), taking into consideration the potential for swapping loco bodies around.
    1 point
  5. I would also like to find out the same. I have seen a couple of options on the market (although they all seem to be sold out or discontinued) and they seem to be around £100, which to me seems excessive considering you can buy remote control cars, etc, for less than £20 which should have all the stuff required in them (although charging the batteries through the track would add an issue / expense). It's not much money when compared to DCC but I just don't want to feel I'm massively over paying for something. In terms of which locos to convert. Any of the old Lima bogied diesels should be OK as they have a mountain of room inside their bodyshells and most can be made to run pretty smoothly - they also emit quite a nice motor growl as well. I've been trying to convince my friend who is an electrical engineer to 'knock something up'. He says it would be quite easy, but he can't see any money in it. I will try again though.
    1 point
  6. Since last posting I have made considerable progress and have fully completed the fiddle yard: Each road can hold a 5-6 coach long train and the return loop can hold a 12 coach train when not in use. Each track can be isolated individually to allow 5 trains to be operational at any one time. Because each half is separated by a return loop two trains can run at once if I cut the line in half. This also means that I can run trains without having to clean the whole line if I dont want to use half. Something else that's new is the Hornby HM6000 controller. My old H&M controller has started to falter and so I thought Id try something a little different this time. A while ago I created a similar Bluetooth controller with an Arduino but It was quite clunky and so I reverted back to a regular controller. The benefit of the Bluetooth controller outside is that I can move around whilst still being in control and this Hornby one does a pretty good job at it. I can control the trains all the way from inside the house with the controller at the other end of the garden. The inertia control is also a very cool feature that is not gimmicky at all. The other features like the sound are not very good although the horn I find myself sometimes using. We will have to see how it holds up in the long term but from what I can see its rather good for the price (if you exclude the fact that you have to buy the power supply separately). Unfortunately, I feel like it is something we have come to expect with Hornby.
    1 point
  7. frustrating day soldering rails that have been outside for 11 years. I did the vast majority of it inside at my desk, but that didn't make it any easier. By late afternoon I was ready for track relaying. I persisted and got the track down the full length of the straight, soldering in the last bonds that I couldn't do inside. There's still more to do, but we are away for the weekend, so it will have to wait. Monday's running session may be a bit different.
    1 point
  8. Hi, have made some improvements, smaller magnets (2mm dia x 3mm long) these can be better concealed and allow the loco to pull away without assistance. I have also remade the buffer stop in plastic and concealed the wires, still prototype stuff but works well. Just needs a bit more refinement. regards to all Steve
    1 point
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