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So just a little bit more progress and some step-by-step photos of adding the other side wall to this section. First thing is to position the L-section and mark out where my first cut is to go. I started by the tunnel section as it doesn't really matter where the other end finishes. This shows me at the second cut as I forgot to photograph the first. when I'm happy that the cut will be in the right position, I used my dremel to make a little nick in the edge that could be seen both sides. The bend will be in the corner so I just estimate where that will be. I should say that I've not been too scientific about the measuring or cutting and it seems to have worked out fine. Then I turn the L-section over and grind a line across the surface to mark where I will cut it. Note that when the wall is on the inside of a bend like this, only a single cut is needed as the L-section will be bent out; when the wall is on the outside of a bend it'll need a V cut into it - again I just estimate that. The next stage is to cut through line I've made with the dremel. Then I turn it over and lay it in position, bend the L-section to shape and check it all lines up. Once I'm happy with the cuts and position. I remove it from the blocks then I get a small wire brush and clean the top of the blocks where it will sit. I also cleaned the L-section as it had been sitting out for a long time by using IPA on the bottom surface. Then I applied the Gorilla contact glue to the L-section in a zig-zag as per the instructions. I was quite generous with the glue as it does need to infill quite a few gaps in the surface. With the glue on I put it in position on the blocks and made sure I was happy with the alignment. Finally the blocks went on to weigh it down while the glue sets over 24 hours.

The upgrades look fantastic and I recognised Lewes immediately from the distinctive platform configuration. My railway (1980s Southern commuter theme) has not made any progress this year as I got side-tracked on another project, but next year I hope to start laying track in the garden. I am local to you Mark, in Crawley Down, so might contact you for some advice in the Spring if that's ok?

The first blocks that I bonded with gorilla glue were in 2020 and are still stuck strongly. It's supposed to be able to stick and set even under water. The L section is stuck fast now. If I used mole grips to pull it, I'm sure it would lift all the blocks with it. I think I could have gone for a more pronounced overhang given the strength of it, but certainly no animal is going to be damaging it and with the track now down in a recess it should be better protected too. I am thinking that a cat incoming for the first time may get a shock with a 1mm wall of aluminium pointed at its paws. As I said I'm looking at a clear rain cover for mine but I'm also looking around at junk for something that could act as a track protector. Something like old hornby platform might make an infill when the railway is out of use. If there is a specific spot the cats use then it could just sit there to give them a safe landing zone.

That looks really good. I love the buildings, canopies and those sweeping curves from eye level viewpoints. Another thing I like about garden railways is that providing of course that we keep the tops of the rails clean we don't have to worry too much about little bits of dirt, stones, vegetation etc.. that accumulates alongside because it just adds to the realism.

That doesn't look bad at all Barry, in fact it's worthy of serious consideration for my own viaducts. I doubt the pigeons would be able to dislodge it. My only reservations would be cats because they tend to jump onto my viaducts from the fence behind so they're either jumping down onto the viaduct from height or using it as a step up onto the fence. But this has to be a big improvement over the slivers of aerated block I've used before. I'm not sure which adhesive I would use because I've tried all sorts previously and they all seem to go soft and pliable over time. I've used the Gorilla brand before and it did last that bit longer. I agree that it would look better with the overhang and that's how I'd installed my pieces of aerated block.

The first half of 2024 I was very busy doing lots of travelling, so I wasn't able to start work on the railway until July! Apart from a small track repair, the last three months I've been constructing my station canopies. Inspired by Lewes station in Sussex, the structure is built from folded aluminium sheet and clad in plastic card. There are still lots more to do and it's very much still "work in progress"!

Looks good.

I can't believe where 2024 has gone! Last year I successfully relayed the top loop with the DCC Concepts track, this involved changing the trackbed alignment to smooth out some curves I didn't like and lining the cuttings in stone and relaying around 10 meters of double track through two tunnels.

I'm at home for a while now so will hopefully get the opportunity to make progress. I think this is going to be a job that gets done in lots of little bits rather than one mammoth session. I do seem to have made a mess in the process but that will be sorted later. I've started the process of adding the aluminium L section walls. First was wire brushing the blocks to clean the surface up, then I cleaned the surface of the L section with some IPA. Squeezed out Gorrila glue along the longest straight length and tried to get the L section to stay in place. I found a few bits where there just wasn't enough glue to fill the pits in the blocks so I had a second go with more glue. Then a slight mismatch of block heights caused an issue, I think some of the bedding sand has washed away in the 4 years since I started. So up came a couple of blocks to get them out of the way until they can be re-laid. With that sorted, I used the blocks I'd taken up to weigh the L section down while the glue is setting (24 hours). The aluminium slightly overhangs the face of the block, I thought that would look better on the viaduct so am trying it here, I think the unseen side is more likely to be in line though. I have a busy week then hoping I get the time to relay the blocks, cut and glue the L-section on the other side and replace the track so I can run a train.

Good to have you back Mark. On my original OO version of Hampton Field, when running analogue locos, an old H&M controller was used effectively. I would only lay track in warm weather and allow literally just 1mm gap in joints.

A colour version of a photo I've just added to my gallery. After being held briefly on the down main 56127 pollutes the air as it departs Skew Bridge with a heavy load of 14 TEA bogie tank wagons. 56095 'Harworth Colliery' stands on the down loop while a class 09 shunts HAA wagons in the down sidings. This next one was done a couple of days ago and depicts EWS liveried 60048 on a rake of BZA/BAA steel coil wagons. 56095 again on the down loop.

Doesn't need to be much Mark, a couple of mill or so should do the trick though I suppose it all depends on the outside temperature when you begin laying track so think of that as a guide. As far as I can recall I've never experienced a problem with expansion of the track outdoors though up in the attic was a different story initially. Does get warm up there mind you.

Thanks Barry, Mick and Ken for your input. I envision running it as simple as possible, at first will use analogue control and then see how it goes. As for allowing space between rail ends, how far should the gap should be, measured in millimetres? I’m informed that they shouldn’t be fully joined, in order to allow for expansion/movement due to weather. Regards, Mark

One more video from my American friend Nate: https://youtu.be/WJSAfuFXII4?si=tWLI_5NExFp6_w43

Hi Mark, I use the Gaugemaster D controller for the outdoors part of the layout and have had no trouble other than dirty track. Again I only run DC and the controller goes indoors when the running session is over.

Hi Mark welcome back. I often need a break myself so there's no problem with taking time away for other things. Barry's quite correct regarding the use of controllers outdoors and of course safety must be our primary concern. I'm not that surprised to hear that a manufacturer has been less than helpful because 'it isn't possible to run OO gauge outdoors' so we are more or less left to work it all out ourselves. I would think that any controller capable of running a decent size indoor layout would be capable of doing likewise outdoors. There are no special requirements or at least nothing I have yet come across. As for 'DCC operation is the way forward' it all depends what you want. In my view a garden railway is generally for watching trains circling round rather than playing trains and shunting wagons about so either type of power controller would be suitable. DCC sound is great but not always clearly audible outdoors depending on the layouts location. Sound also tends to attract a lot of attention - something you might not always want. Electrical continuity along the length of the track is what you need to aim for and Barry gives sound advice above.

Welcome back Mark. I don't think any controller manufacturer will give any help, all of their controllers are marked as "for indoor use only" That is fine, we're adapting stuff anyway and for the majority of us, the controller will be inside a shed or similar. Gaugemaster are a good controller, generally the Model Ds are 1amp contollers so pack a fair punch. We don't generally rely on rail joiners to transmit current (or DCC signal) reliably at all. That means either soldering a pair of joining wires across the joins or using a separate bus cable and joining every piece of track to it. I've decided to try a hybrid approach myself in a couple of places to reduce the number of attachment points to the bus. Using a big enough bus will reduce the voltage drop the further you are from the controller. One idea might be to try to get your controller in the middle of the run rather than at one end, then the maximum distance from the controller is halved.

Hi all, After a long hiatus, coupled with other reasons that happened in my life, I have not been able to get the garden railway completed, however I picked up momentum this Summer and cleared out old masonry stuff and other mess that gardens tend to accumulate over a period of time, I am set to complete the foundations using blocks and hope to have decking with felt covering installed in 2025 as soon as Spring comes. Then it’s track laying next. I’d like to ask esteemed members of this forum for advice about which analogue controller is best for use on long OO gauge garden railway as I had asked Gaugemaster for recommendation and they weren’t able to help, which somewhat puzzled me. So I turn to experts here. My plan for the railway length is approximately 110ft per running line and as I plan a double track it would mean 220ft of track in total. Will I need a power feed for every length of how many? Would one controller be sufficient? I’m sure many of you would be saying DCC operation is the way forward. I really could do with some help! Will send some pics of the progress this weekend as weather’s looking excellent. Thanks, Mark

I’m back in the forum after a long hiatus, and moved my post to new thread called ‘Gaining momentum…’

Please take a few pictures so that you can get a better idea.

Sounds interesting. Look forward to seeing how it turns out.

I started to cut and bend the aluminium L section. It comes in 230cm lengths from B&Q. No blow torch was needed, I just cut the lower bit of the L in line with the join of the blocks and bend at that point. I reckon with some alu primer and matt grey paint it will weather itself over time. It could be weathered as well or scribed to make it look like blockwork but I'm not that fussed so probably won't. I'm trying it first on the original lenth of blocks down the left edge of the garden past the bushes. That section has the track damaged by birds etc. and at least one length of flexi needs replaced. I thought the L section would stop the birds going on the recessed track. I also need to replace the roofing felt down there so will cut new felt to suit the gap between the L section. Another problem with that section is the shrubs growing over it. My second idea was to cut up 2ltr pop bottles and create covers for when the railway isn't in use to keep detritus out. If it works in that section, I will create some walls for the more complex shape of the viaduct in the corner using the same method, although spending slightly more time on the appearance maybe.

I started cutting and shaping some 15mm L profile aluminium, I'll post some pics when I get it done.

Usually when I edit photos I've taken on the layout I prefer to see them in mono but on this occasion they seem to look better in their original colour. This is one of a series of photos I took yesterday, some already uploaded to my 'gallery'. I keep trying to make the exhaust look as realistic as possible because nice and smokey is how I felt it always seemed to be even though it might sometimes look a bit over the top.