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  1. Today
  2. Hi Anthony, Welcome to the forum. I think you will get good answers here, although the forum can be quiet so answers can be slow in coming, don't give up hope as they do come in the end. Just so I can be clear on your plan, if you can give a bit more detail it may help with the answers. What kind of space do you have in the shed? What layout in the shed are you thinking of? Are the three tracks in and out going to be separate, rather than joining up in the shed to make a continuous circuit? The easiest answer to give you is that tracks are split and joined by points (sometimes referred to as turnouts). Points come in a variety of sizes. There are two main types: Sectional track, made by Hornby or Peco (under the trade name of Setrack) which is basically trainset track designed for layouts that are in small spaces. Sectional track is the easiest to fit together as it is all made around set angles and lengths. Then there is track that is designed to be more freestyle, it is put together with flexi-track that needs cut to size to fit. The advantage of using flexi is it looks more realistic but it is harder to make it work. So depending on your skill level, space available and what you want there are very different answers. I'll attach an image using sectional track for 3 sidings in what is probably the easiest set-up for a novice. Using one Peco ST-240 left hand point, one ST-241 right hand point and a ST-225 2nd radius standard curve in addition to the straight track pieces. I hope that is of some help. Barry.
  3. Yesterday
  4. hi im new to the forum and any railway, iv collected oo gauge locos and some carriages and wagons ,for a while and i have a test track in shed, but now im thinking of running a loop from out of shed. i can see im going to need a lot of advice and hoping this is the place. hopefully i can ask questions as i go along my 1st question is im going to have 6 tracks in shed to prepare whats running 3 tracks going into 1 and out of shed onto loop then 1 track returning to shed splitting into the other 3 tracks when they finished running . i dont know if i explained it but im wondering what track i need to get the 3 tracks into 1 thanks
  5. Last week
  6. Hi Andrew, Thanks for the feedback. I should point out that the area where the terminus is in the plan is a corner of the decking behind where the door opens and is a bit of a wasted area currently, it is also sheltered and in an area it wouldn't get kicked or be in the way. As much as I called it a Station, I was as much thinking of it as a storage / staging area but with something to make it not look like such. I've added a line to bypass the station to make a continuous circuit. My current longest train is a Hornby blue grey HST set (2+4) at a total of 175cm long, it would just fit in the terminus as it is. More regular passenger stock would be LL Blue 37s with 3 Mk2s, a 47/7 with a couple of Mk3s & DBSO or 156/158 DMUs. Freight would be Class 20 or 37 hauling OTAs / OBAs/ VDAs of which I've only got small rakes. The major downside of this plan is the lack of storage so that I can only really have maybe 3 trains out at any one time, but I can live with that. Oh, and I'd hope to copy Mick's trick with the passing loop station points to make them automatic.
  7. The above replies sum everything up quite well. It was always my intention to build the layout predominantly as a single line. At first it was intended to represent a preserved line, which it still could do, but then I began leaning more towards Scottish stock and trying to incorporate a feel for a Highland type single line. A single line usually dictates a lower line speed which I much prefer. I just think a train trundling slowly around the garden looks so much better than one racing around at high speed so yes, a single line with a realistically slower line speed where a circuit can take 2 minutes or more was my plan from the outset. I can't recall the exact radius of the curves although it's probably mentioned in my layout thread somewhere but as has already been said it was more to do with them looking right while at the same time trying to keep close to the boundaries of the garden. I did try to avoid overly long straight sections so there's plenty of gentle curves. Yes I'm still happy with just a single line. There's easily enough operating potential for me but I do occasionally run 2 trains at once either both in the same direction or, with the aid of the short double track/passing loop section, in opposite directions. I do of course have the indoor station sections as well which adds operating potential.
  8. All looks promising, Barry. A couple of thoughts. The temporary can tend to become permanent, so you might want to make some allowance for that from the outset rather than committing to replace everything as part of the plan. The sidings at your terminus don't look as long as the passing loop. If there was scope to have the station parallel to the front edge of the decking you might have more length available. If you could get the line to run behind that variegated green patch so that the curve starts from up against the boundary, there might be more length available for the main station. As for the main station, does it need to be a terminus? One of the characteristics of a garden railway is that operators (and your visitors) enjoy watching trains running round a continuous circuit, rather than doing detailed shunting which is better performed indoors. Some people (i.e. me) start with a continuous circuit and find that gives so much of what they wanted that anything further is a bit of an afterthought...
  9. you mention that you “pass” the magnet over. Do you take it away ? The reed switch only operates when the magnet is near it, it doesn’t latch (stay in position). you’ll need a circuit / different component otherwise. As Steve said a link to the part would help.
  10. I've split the project into four stages, each stage being a summer. The first stage will be temporary boards along the bottom and right hand sides of the garden. This initial structure won't be intended to last forever or stay out all of the time. I Intend to build it out of reclaimed pallets and other timber I have spare with birch ply tops. The main point of it is to get something running and also to set the height for the permanent tracks to be built in Stage 2. When I get to stages 3 and 4 then the tracks from stage 1 will be removed and permanent structures for the final track plan will replace them. I don't see that as a waste as I'm not going to be spending much on materials and it will help to start off Stage 2 and be easier to adjust the height if I get things wrong. The garden isn't sloped but it isn't billiard table flat and level either.
  11. So I think I've settled on a final track plan for my small garden. I deliberately chose to have a smaller garden, I had a big garden before and it was too much work alongside a full time job etc. It is a compromise with a small garden when it comes to curve radius, so I've gone for 40" where I can and 36" where I can't (or metric equivalents). I'd like to have larger radius curves but I think it wouldn't work in this size garden, these are much greater radius than setrack though and enough that I could close couple coaches if I wanted. I have gone for a single track as I like that and the passing loop through island station is quite West Highlandish. I'm on holiday this coming week half way up the Far North Line and we're going to have a trip over to Kyle of Lochalsh during the week too, so I might get different inspiration by then. I didn't want it to reflect any one line or area, just reflect a generic single line. Starting at the top left, I thought that a station and siding on a removable board over the decking (which isn't that high). The triangle is a solution to turning locos and trains without taking them off. Most of my locos are set up with a coupling at one end and the other end having snow ploughs and vacuum pipes etc. fitted. I'm aware of what I need wiring wise to do this. The passing line would be left on more permanent board. Going clockwise, I'll have to do some gardening to keep the bushes in check and at that lowish level I can get around the camillia and rose but I think I'll need some form of covering over the track to keep it clean and from new growth affecting it. On the right I'll put my longish "Tomatin style" viaduct then around to the passing loop station. The Hornby station platform sections there are just to signify a platform, I'd make a custom platform to fit. The station platforms having to be long enough for my longest trains to stop. Past the station there would be a removable metal bridge over the path and then back up to the beginning. That is my thoughts. Next posts will be on how I plan to achieve it. Barry.
  12. Your a star thanks for all that. I'm going to take my time and try and get it so "it looks right" in the garden and it can become part of the garden. I have basically a square garden no obstructions as such. As somebody alluded to it's more of an engineering job when your planning an outside railway... Cheers Steve
  13. Take a cab ride around Mick's railway from last year https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbcYahEjf3I&t=400s If you were to ask me to guess I would say the tightest curve around the back of the shed was around 6 foot radius. The scenic areas look shallower, maybe 8ft minimum. The shallower the curve the better it looks but the more space it will take out of the garden. What you do really has to be driven by what you have the space for and what obstacles you have in the garden. I went out with a long pole and waved it about to figure what likely radii would work around my garden.
  14. I think Scoobyra used plastic downpipe in his recent Oak Garden Railway build. I have previously used recycled plastic posts which need no maintenance and will last 100 years!
  15. I'm sure Mick will be back, but I theink he arranged his curves merely to look right. Have you read his posts about his layout? You will get the full story there.
  16. Thanks ever so much for getting back to me Have you done it all the way round the garden like that or have you mixed it up a bit. Are you happy with a single track and what the radius of the curve as it goes round. Sorry about all the question. Thanks a million Steve
  17. I think timber would be fine - it's probably just the bit at ground level you need to be concerned with. Above ground level you can more easily protect it. While I don't have any experience of using it, or of seeing it used, I've always thought about the potential for using square plastic downpipe (as from your guttering) It always seems solid enough and could perhaps be strengthened further with a mix of concrete if deemed necessary? I sympathise with you regarding your back - I'm heading that way but it's currently at knee level with me.
  18. Hi Steve - thank you for your comments. I believe the blocks are approx 440mm high standing on end. I wouldn't think they would be quite so sturdy if you were to stand one on top of another but I added additional height to maintain a level track base by building part of my viaduct on top of a raised block wall. Here's that section under construction: Perhaps something like that would be suitable for you? It's certainly a decent height for accessing easily. The individual blocks are not quite wide enough for double tracks but that gives you the opportunity to build two viaducts! I don't see any reason why the blocks couldn't be painted and they can be sanded to remove or disguise those horizontal moulding lines.
  19. Absolutely superb. Again I'm new to all this. First of all how high are these blocks and could they be made to go higher as I'm getting on a bit and my back is not the best. Is it a double track you have and could you paint them if you wanted. Thank you ever so much. Steve
  20. Earlier
  21. Hi guys I'm new and know nothing but what I do know is you've got to get your groundwork sorted so hence the question and bring an old git lol I'm wanting to build my layout the same height as my kitchin tops so I dont have to bend down. Would you recommend wood or metal as your supports. Cheers guys
  22. Piling on the coal again Here's the BR Standard 4MT waiting at Throstlebeck for departure with a coal train, alongside one of the recently arrived and very elegant ground signals which really improve the general appearance. and later caught (from a drone) passing Black Ghyll:
  23. Short notice: Overpass is finished.
  24. Good eye and yeah, I am worried about it. The old Tycos have super large bogies and I will cut some excess off of them.
  25. I'm sure you've checked this, but is there enough turn on the bogies, so as not to foul the frame?
  26. Progress on the 1st log car. I think I can easily make a whole slew of these.
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