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  1. Last week
  2. To bo honest, my friend Nate from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania visited me and made them.
  3. I had a great time visiting David's superb French outline 0 gauge layout near me in Surrey:
  4. Then there were three (spans). Need some small adjustments to get things level.
  5. Thomas, It's great to see you running trains now after all your hard work on building the layout. It looks superb, and I hope you'll be able to spend more time testing out how it all runs - and just enjoy the pleasure of watching trains. And your photos of the TGV Duplex are excellent. Don't stop the photos!
  6. Earlier
  7. With the garden railroad in H0, there is no getting around artificial landscapes. The techniques used "indoors" also work outdoors.
  8. Hi Thomasi, Thanks for the great photos of some of your railway stock. Very impressive. They look well on your sweeping curves.
  9. A few more pictures of test drives with different trains.
  10. Hi Thomas, Great to see you have been running trains after all your major works you have undertaken. Must be very rewarding for you.
  11. First test drives with more demanding vehicles. Going better than feared.
  12. Hi to all, It was good to be able to run trains today instead of weeding. All seems to be ok trackwise other than I had mixed up to peaces of old steel track in with the new (of cause it was a lovely rusty colour.) Have replaced on length will do the other tomorrow. Hope you all have been able to enjoy garden railway running . Regards to all.
  13. My dentist has a garden railway background!
  14. I allowed myself to be distracted by other things today - at the Bluebell Railway:
  15. In any case, a new start has the advantage that you can do everything better than before because you can now incorporate all your previous experience.
  16. Created a little landscape with artificial moss from the film supplies and moss mats from the aquarium supplies.
  17. Weather proof PVA? However this doesn’t any grab at all when newly applied, so when altering flexitrack you’d need to weight it down etc to ensure correct shape is secured.
  18. Finally some progress A couple of weeks ago there was a small step towards rebuilding the Dorking Garden Railway after it was largely demolished to allow last year's landscaping work. Actually this was a 2.4m span of completed trackbed (which somehow looks a lot shorter in the photo) to form part of the rebuilt Bamboo Curtain Straight. This week a second span appeared, with the end shaped to lead into what will be the new Sycamore Curve to take the line round through 180 degrees to join the track on the far side of the circuit. "About time too", I hear you say, so let's hope things will gain momentum.
  19. I've been looking for, and so far failed to find, a suitable adhesive for gluing down my new track. This potentially seems less visible than pins or screws which tend to look bad in close-up photos. The idea glue should be all-weather, exterior rated and not a grab/contact adhesive as there needs to be time for adjusting the position and straightening sleepers. And it mustn't foam or expand or leave a visible residue when dry. And of course it must stick plastic trackbase. I think that's unobtainable!.
  20. Hi David, Not many people on to advise here. One of the things with smaller scales outdoors is that there is no "conventional wisdom" or "one way" of doing things as there is indoors. Two things worth considering: 1. Temperature differences can be greater outdoors. (I don't know if your rails are generally in direct sunlight or not) That means you need a bit more room for expansion which can affect how you fix the track down. I've only fixed mine down at the points, I'm leaving the intermediate bits the ability to move slightly as they expand and contract. 2. Evenness of the surface. Your bricks look pretty flat from the photos so may be OK. Are you intending to put anything between bricks and track (e.g. roofing felt or plywood)? There is nothing wrong with direct attachment to hard surfaces, I think it will just be more difficult than to a softer one such as timber. If you are going for direct attachment, your idea of screws into rawlplugs sounds workable. I would probably use a screw into the middle of the track between the sleepers that allows the track some movement for expansion and contraction but does stop it wondering off.
  21. Hi all In planning stages of my garden railway build, and luck enough to have over 50% of the track bed pre existing, by means of a ground level concrete block ‘wall’. Sections I am building will have standard brickw laid flat, also. This leaves me with a quandry of how to attach my flexi track to the base, as standard track pins will be useless, as well as the need to hold the flexi track in it’s position. Any experience of different methods, successful or not? I have thought about the smallest rawl plugs and small head screws to allow adjustment, rather than bonding with a Tiger Seal type product. Any recommendations and / or links to products much appreciated A smattering of images showing route testing and gauging works.
  22. Now that the Italian bridge has been installed, the last gaps in the garden have been closed. Now it just needs to be wired and finished with the ballast.
  23. That is a good amount of track for an outdoor railway. A couple of notes to consider. You'll definitely need to be able to access tracks for cleaning and rescuing stuck or derailed trains. So you'll need easy access to that track under the decking somehow. Crossovers are fine between the top pair of lines and between the bottom pair of lines. You won't be able to have anything cross between the two inner lines at all though as the inner rail would join to the outer rail and create a short circuit. Hope that is of use and understandable. I will try to do some diagrams in Paint to make it clearer. Barry.
  24. Hi, the forum can be rather quiet at times but I'm sure more opinions will be along in a while. The rough track plan is useful. You are correct in your understanding I think. The way to think about it is, if you are wiring for analogue and DCC then you are wiring for analogue. (Since DCC wiring is simpler). In analogue, to run two trains on two lines you need two controllers or one controller with two knobs (e.g. Gaugemaster Model D.) Taking that controller, on the back are two track outputs "Track 1" and "Track 2." For the inner track you can take a pair of wires and run them from Track 1 outputs to the multiple feeds around the inner track. Then take two wires off Track 2 outputs and wire them to several feeds around the outer track. That is basic wiring for two loops of analogue. It doesn't reduce the voltage to have more feeds, voltage reduces with distance from the controller, by running a bus you actually improve the voltage at locations further frome the controller but don't worry about that for the moment. For DCC, you only have one controller and one pair of terminals to go to both tracks. So what you do is run that one pair of DCC outputs to both pairs of track feeds. What I do for that is have my track feeds from the analogue controller go into a row of 4 pluggable terminal blocks and the permanent railway wiring having the other side of the 4 pluggable terminal blocks. I then have the DCC controller connected to a different set of 4 pluggable terminal blocks making sure both lines are paired inner to inner rail and outer with outer rail. That way it is impossible to plug in two controllers at the same time.
  25. I have drawn up a rudimentary and not to scale plan of what I intend to build as a bare minimum. As I say, I’d hoped to include some crossovers near the LH look when the lines converge, for operational flexibility. The dashed lines are where the track will run underneath our decking. Please feel free to download and make any annotations, I’ll take any advice I can get!
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