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  • Recent Posts

    • So just a little bit more progress and some step-by-step photos of adding the other side wall to this section. First thing is to position the L-section and mark out where my first cut is to go. I started by the tunnel section as it doesn't really matter where the other end finishes. This shows me at the second cut as I forgot to photograph the first. when I'm happy that the cut will be in the right position, I used my dremel to make a little nick in the edge that could be seen both sides. The bend will be in the corner so I just estimate where that will be. I should say that I've not been too scientific about the measuring or cutting and it seems to have worked out fine. Then I turn the L-section over and grind a line across the surface to mark where I will cut it. Note that when the wall is on the inside of a bend like this, only a single cut is needed as the L-section will be bent out; when the wall is on the outside of a bend it'll need a V cut into it - again I just estimate that. The next stage is to cut through line I've made with the dremel. Then I turn it over and lay it in position, bend the L-section to shape and check it all lines up. Once I'm happy with the cuts and position. I remove it from the blocks then I get a small wire brush and clean the top of the blocks where it will sit. I also cleaned the L-section as it had been sitting out for a long time by using IPA on the bottom surface. Then I applied the Gorilla contact glue to the L-section in a zig-zag as per the instructions. I was quite generous with the glue as it does need to infill quite a few gaps in the surface. With the glue on I put it in position on the blocks and made sure I was happy with the alignment. Finally the blocks went on to weigh it down while the glue sets over 24 hours.    
    • The upgrades look fantastic and I recognised Lewes immediately from the distinctive platform configuration.  My railway (1980s Southern commuter theme) has not made any progress this year as I got side-tracked on another project, but next year I hope to start laying track in the garden.  I am local to you Mark, in Crawley Down, so might contact you for some advice in the Spring if that's ok?
    • The first blocks that I bonded with gorilla glue were in 2020 and are still stuck strongly. It's supposed to be able to stick and set even under water. The L section is stuck fast now. If I used mole grips to pull it, I'm sure it would lift all the blocks with it. I think I could have gone for a more pronounced overhang given the strength of it, but certainly no animal is going to be damaging it and with the track now down in a recess it should be better protected too. I am thinking that a cat incoming for the first time may get a shock with a 1mm wall of aluminium pointed at its paws. As I said I'm looking at a clear rain cover for mine but I'm also looking around at junk for something that could act as a track protector. Something like old hornby platform might make an infill when the railway is out of use. If there is a specific spot the cats use then it could just sit there to give them a safe landing zone.  
    • That looks really good. I love the buildings, canopies and those sweeping curves from eye level viewpoints. Another thing I like about garden railways is that providing of course that we keep the tops of the rails clean we don't have to worry too much about little bits of dirt, stones, vegetation etc.. that accumulates alongside because it just adds to the realism.
    • That doesn't look bad at all Barry, in fact it's worthy of serious consideration for my own viaducts. I doubt the pigeons would be able to dislodge it. My only reservations would be cats because they tend to jump onto my viaducts from the fence behind so they're either jumping down onto the viaduct from height or using it as a step up onto the fence. But this has to be a big improvement over the slivers of aerated block I've used before. I'm not sure which adhesive I would use because I've tried all sorts previously and they all seem to go soft and pliable over time. I've used the Gorilla brand before and it did last that bit longer. I agree that it would look better with the overhang and that's how I'd installed my pieces of aerated block.
    • The first half of 2024 I was very busy doing lots of travelling, so I wasn't able to start work on the railway until July! Apart from a small track repair, the last three months I've been constructing my station canopies. Inspired by Lewes station in Sussex,  the structure is built from folded aluminium sheet and clad in plastic card. There are still lots more to do and it's very much still "work in progress"!
  • Image Comments

  • Recent Status Updates

    • kenbrunt  »  Clay Mills Junction

      It looks very smart and the length certainly adds to overhaul look. You should be very pleased. I am saving for a couple of coaches as they are as expensive as the locos were a few years ago. I feel that the hobby is for the collectors these days not the model railways runners. The seasons been a wash out this year.
      We had a run up to Chester to see Making Tracks 3. Very impressive and like you running full length sets. Had a great day there talking to Pete Waterman and sitting by the river with an ice-cream 
      · 0 replies
    • Marcus

      Hi all, though you might like my video of my Blue Pullman set. It's vintage Triang Hornby (Couldn't afford the Bachmann one!). Runs really well. I just love the blue and white livery!
       
       
      · 0 replies
    • John Barnacle

      Hi all
      I know this has probably been asked before but what is the best track for garden use?
      · 2 replies
    • 40027

      Garden railway novice ,railway in planning stage
      footpaths to cross/dive under and a planned pool for kids to navigate around
      · 1 reply
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