Hi, having run an "OO" garden line on and off since the 90's using Analogue, DCC and even Hornby Live steam, the biggest problems for me have always been; keeping the power on and keeping the track clean. A train hasn't run since about 2017 and that was only on a limited section of the track.
I'm liking the sound of RC because it could potentially remove my 2 biggest bug bears and allow me to run trains more often with minimum effort, (just a light rub down and a quick vacuum of the track). To this end, I'd be interested in a parts list and instructions in how to fit. You never know, it might be possible to RC the Hornby live steam, after all it's only a heater and a Servo to power.🙂
Just seen your post, how long will a PP3 power a loco?
Hi, Thanks for the interest, it's going to be difficult to explain it without a diagram so I will create one and a description. In the meantime I attach a photo of my proto.
The pale, rectangular block on the rhs is the latching relay which selects the run/charging mode. Also on top is my receiver, and on the side the charger circuit and boost circuit to take battery voltage up to running voltage.
the orange and black leads on rhs go to the short section of powered track it is these leads connected to a 12V supply via a changeover switch, selects on (charging) or off . The red and black leads on the LHS go to the motor.
The whole lot sits on a PP3 li-ion battery (you can see the terminals just below the relay).
Hope I have not caused too much confusion,
Ha, I didn't think about that.
Putting the tunnel away in the garage isn't going to help with the spiders. I may just have to clear webs before a running session.
I'll have to think about how I engineer the tunnel ends.
Finally, Ive got a day off and blessed with some dry and bright weather. A neighbour almost spoilt the fun - they had tree surgeons in, with very noisy chainsaws.
That didnt put me off and I gave some new locos and stock a run out on the O gauge line.
The Heljan 31 was a planned purchase, but the Jinty and the 25 were bargains I snapped up from Hattons and Ellis Clark Trains. As I didnt have any appropriate goods stock for the Jinty, Ive been snapping up a nice few wagons off the internet.
The 31 came from Tower Models in Blackpool, who also numbered it and fitted dcc sound. I will be weathering it once the temperature goes up - probably in the Spring - and fitting a driver and secondman.
The Jinty has factory fitted sound and firebox glow. The 25 has been fitted with a South West Digital sound file, courtesy of dccfitting in Weston super Mare. They also fitted a chip to a Hornby 8F for me (I didnt check if there was a dcc socket, which there was! I couldve done it myself!). Unfortunately, the 8F chassis developed faults whilst I was trying it out and is now in the "to be sold" pile, as sourcing the replacement parts is proving difficult and the cost of repairs would be uneconomic for me. Oh well, Ive still got a chip spare, to put in something else.
Athearn are a reliable brand. It sounds like your points may be too small a radius.
I would try to open it up and see if you can re-gauge the wheels you speak of.
Ideally an NMRA gauge is your best friend, but I've found turning the loco upside down and sliding a piece of set track, or identical kind of point over the wheels will show you what is going on.
No fun having a new loco fail on the layout.
Hi Mate, thanks for the feedback. This is an SD751. I'll take a good look at the bogies/wheel axles when I have some time. It seems like one of the middle wheel axles doesn't have any lateral movement. It could be a lemon loco, or just a design fault. Having been used to European locos (Trix, Brawa, Roco etc.) and Bachmann Branchline UK stock which are mostly great runners, I was expecting something better out of the box. Maybe 3 axle bogies aren't really suited to tighter radius curves.
Used to be everything would run on the USA standard of 18' Radius. Most newer USA models are designed to follow prototype radii. Athearn says the new locos can do 18" but advise 22". Is that an SD60? I would also check the wheel gauges. With my N scale locos I had a problem that with a wheel gauge tool the wheels seemed correct. When running these same locos through a switch it turned out the gauge was slightly narrow and the locos would pick at the facing points. American models are now using body mounted couplers as well, the body mounts make a huge difference in radius they can do. Also, the coupling are closer together and that also changes things a bit.
I tested my new Athearn CN loco both on my outdoor layout and my indoor test track. It seems that it really doesn't like curves or points. It constantly comes of the rails. I had to use 2nd radius curves on some sections, but none of my other locos have issues. Has anyone had any experience with this make of models before? It's a real shame because it's a stunning looking loco.