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    • 14.1mm disc wheels were apparently correct, but the models have 12mm 3-hole disc wheels as standard. I've no idea if the 14.1mm wheels will foul on anything without modification and the hoppers will sit a little higher on them.  Another way to cure the wobble was to glue one axle on straight, you didn't need to glue both apparently. Bear in mind that this was Hornby's way of getting them around first and second radius curves so any modification might cause unintended consequences.
    • A great choice for a loco Chris and wagons too!  I've responded to your other post regarding the MGR wagons (not sure if it will be any help or not) but you might want to bear in mind that there will shortly be a new version of the MGR wagon released by Cavalex models. I'm not suggesting that you go out and order them (£90 for 3 wagons ouch!) but it may well lead to a lot of the later version Hornby MGR's finding their way onto the usual auction sites and in my opinion they would be a better option to the ones you have obtained. However, If you're prepared to replace the plastic wheels and sort out the wobbling then the earlier version you have are an absolute steal and may even become cheaper still given the impending arrival of the Cavalex models.
    • That's coming along nicely Tony. It looks more impressive with each posting.
    • All the MGR's I have are the later Hornby version with metal wheels so I haven't had the need to change any of mine but it appears you need Hornby 14.1mm plain disc wheels as a replacement (Hornby R8218?). As for the wobbling I think this is a feature of the earlier MGR models due to the swivelling axle mounts but it would be a good idea to check the wheel back to back measurements too as this can also result in wobbling if the distance between the wheels isn't correct. You will need a wheel back-to-back gauge of some sort for this. There are a few posts dealing with upgrading these wagons at: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/89108-hornby-railroad-range-haa-upgrades-wheels-couplings-buffers/ One post especially shows a method for stabilising the swivelling axles to reduce the wobbling. I suppose how you proceed depends how many MGR's you intend to add to your collection. A pack of 10 wheelsets equates to about £1.60 per axle so adds a not insignificant cost to the price of each wagon.
    • So, with the nicer weather (well, not today typically) I've been flicking through eBay listings for bargains. I stumbled across this DCC fitted 37 for a very good price so snapped it up along with a couple of hopper wagons. I'll be keeping an eye out for more of those wagons over the next few months. I did post in the rolling stock section about these wagons but will mention them here too. One has plastic wheels the other metal. The plastic wheels don't really turn very freely and the metal ones have a good wobble to them. Any idea on replacement metal wheels?
    • I've just picked up a couple of these hoppers. One has plastic wheels which aren't turning very freely. The other has metal wheels but wobbles quite a bit. Any advice on maintenance and replacement metal wheels?   Cheers
    • More progress work on the bridge gluing the port side window panel in place, I need to finished the window sill  starboard side before cutting out the front window panel which has 8 windows to cut out, getting pretty good cutting the  windows out , a sharp kniffe blade is needed . I buy a pack of 10 blades at Big W like Kmart.   Our days are starting to cool down now, in the 30's and high 20's can't wait to get back to the layout build , full swing making the most of the cooler weather.  The bridge is now glued to the roof of the front accommodation decks, it actually lifts out wont be be glued in place , plan to have lighting to light  up the windows . The last pic I had a square piece of dowel  in the keel channel , couldn't get it out, had to screw in a screw and hit that a few times with my wife holding onto the bow at the stronger end finely come lose to pull out . It was lifting up the main  deck in the middle looks far better, now will make up cardboard strips when gluing the second section to the bow, ship will be in two half's  once the decks are painted and  trailer lines drawn .    Tony from cloudy down under 
  • Image Comments

    • Hi Mate, Many thanks for the advise. I'll do some investigating when I have some time. Cheers,  Marcus
       
    • Athearn are a reliable brand. It sounds like your points may be too small a radius.
      I would try to open it up and see if you can re-gauge the wheels you speak of.
      Ideally an NMRA gauge is your best friend, but I've found turning the loco upside down and sliding a piece of set track, or identical kind of point over the wheels will show you what is going on.
      No fun having a new loco fail on the layout. 
    • Hi Mate, thanks for the feedback. This is an SD751. I'll take a good look at the bogies/wheel axles when I have some time. It seems like one of the middle wheel axles doesn't have any lateral movement. It could be a lemon loco, or just a design fault. Having been used to European locos (Trix, Brawa, Roco etc.) and Bachmann Branchline UK stock which are mostly great runners,  I was expecting something better out of the box. Maybe 3 axle bogies aren't really suited to tighter radius curves.
       
    • Used to be everything would run on the USA standard of 18' Radius.  Most newer USA models are designed to follow prototype radii. Athearn says the new locos can do 18" but advise 22". Is that an SD60? I would also check the wheel gauges. With my N scale locos I had a problem that with a wheel gauge tool the wheels seemed correct. When running these same locos through a switch it turned out the gauge was slightly narrow and the locos would pick at the facing points. American models are now using body mounted couplers as well, the body mounts make a huge difference in radius they can do. Also, the coupling are closer together and that also changes things a bit. 
    • I tested my new Athearn CN loco both on my outdoor layout and my indoor test track. It seems that it really doesn't like curves or points. It constantly comes of the rails. I had to use 2nd radius curves on some sections, but none of my other locos have issues. Has anyone had any experience with this make of models before? It's a real shame because it's a stunning looking loco.
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