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Because I need something more stable for the garden, I have turned to Danish prototypes.  4mm x 4mm brass square tube which can then be attached to 3mm x 3mm square profile (brass, stainless steel) in the garden. 4mm x 4mm corresponds almost exactly to the original dimensions of the DSB catenary poles. I now use 0.7 and 0.8mm nickel silver wire instead of the copper-plated iron wire from Sommerfeldt. It has the right color and doesn't rust.

Greening with moss that I scraped from a disused road...

Great to see someone making progress with their garden railway.

Hello everyone! Another sign of life from me. The last bridge, the one from Italy, is finally being pre-assembled.    I've also replaced overhead line masts in exposed places with more stable self-built ones. Below is a picture of a portal based on the Danish model.   Apart from that, this was the first winter that passed without structural damage.   Greetings  Thomas   

Nice to hear how things are going from you. This very damp winter must have been a problem for your viaduct. I will have to wait to see how my track and buildings have survived under tarpaulins once the winter weather ends. I have spent a little time relaying the tracks inside the shed. Some of the curves were tight and causing running problems.

Has anyone any experience of using angle cranks between point motor and point. I'm looking at using the MP1 point motor mounted in a box on the back side of the concrete block but this would give me a vertical movement that would need to convert to horizontal to move the tiebar. There seem to be a couple of angle cranks "off the shelf." GEM 1012 angle cranks (Mercontrol) seem to be out of stock, is GEM even in existence? DCC concepts Cobalt angle cranks (for those with bottomless bank accounts) Make my own.   Does anyone have any advice on how would I go about making my own please? I was thinking I could use plastic servo arms with two of the arms cut off. I'd then just need a mount to go on the corner of the block. The MP1 motors are fairly strong so I don't think they'd need to be perfectly resistance free, just not seize up (I have plenty of oils and greases for cars and bikes.

Since there is a recent picture of the viaduct, there will have to be some maintenance happening here in spring to clean the stones and bottoms of the viaduct supports. I'll also have to tone down the white of the glue somehow. The viaduct does need some walls either side of the track and I have looked at the possibility of making them from the off-cuts of concrete block. However, given the trouble Mick has had with pigeons and the difficulty in making them, I'm more inclined to use my favoured 15mm L section aluminium bent to shape. So I think the plan will be to wait for warmer weather and use the blow-torch to bend the aluminium to shape, glue it to the block with a slight overhang and then use paint to get it to a similar shade to the block.