• Announcements

    • admin

      PLEASE UPDATE YOUR BOOKMARKS   03/21/2017

      I have now removed all files associated with our old forum and the new forum has now been relocated in the root of the OO Garden Railway website. In order to continue visiting the forum you should amend your bookmarks to www.oogardenrailway.co.uk as before.
Purbeck

The actual track!

16 posts in this topic

Hi folks,

Very new to this forum, is there such a thing as special rustproof outdoor track? If so, what should I get? I guess it would be best to lay it and keep it laid all year round.

Thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe almost all of us here, with perhaps one or two exceptions, use Peco nickel silver track. Certainly in the UK it withstands all the weather can throw at it and it doesn't rust, although it does need cleaning before use in order to remove the tarnish that forms on the rail tops.

It's much more convenient to keep the track down all year round although there's nothing stopping you from taking it up and putting it back down as and when required. I think it's the aim of most members of the forum to have a permanent outdoor layout and that's the main reason we leave track down all year round.

Oh and welcome to the forum. If you're considering an outdoor layout then you'll find yourself in good company.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The one exception to track being rust proof is the tiny spring used to "latch" the points (keep them thrown or closed). I use a small blob of silicon grease from time to time to help keep the rust away.

Thinking about it, I noticed a couple of my points need that treatment. I'll go and do that now while I remember.

Edited by

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Purbeck, welcome to the forum, Mick has pretty much covered it all there however I would add that I think most of us use Peco code 100 track as opposed to the finer scale versions, also if you decide to install any points outdoors then stick to the Peco brand don't go for the Hornby ones (even though they may be slightly cheaper) as they are not as good a quality. You will also need to do some additional wiring to the points for outdoor usage, but it's not complicated and it is covered elsewhere in this forum.

Don't be afraid to ask questions, we always try to answer all of them, somebody on here usually knows the answer!

There is also lots of friendly banter on here as well I hope you're ok with that! so please join in :D......... and now and again we do tend to drift "off topic" but then we get shouted at and our wrists slapped :shock::lol::lol::lol:

All the best for now Nige.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Purbeck. Warmest welcomes from south yorkshire mate. It's been said before but ill say it again anyway. Never be afraid to ask questions matey. Someone on here will have done what you're trying to do before and worked out the best/easiest/cheapest/most effective way to do it. Enjoy what you're building and spend time doing it right first time then you'll have something that lasts a lifetime (more or less)!! :P Oh and don't ask me for photography advice, don't ask enginedriver (Nige) for planing advice and don't ask our leader (Mick) which box is best for amputated fingers!!! :lol::lol::lol: Welcome mate. Mark :D:D:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am the odd man out. I use Atlas code 100 flex track and snap switches. But it's still made of the same rail which is nickel silver and rust proof.

I would use peco, but it is more expensive. Peco points are extremely reliable and they have a lot of the european styles of points that one see's more often over there like double scissors and also the smaller radii.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for the warm welcomes - back home now and looking at a box full of old track in the attic.. will check for the Peco brand, and (I'm guessing) a quick check with a magnet will reject anything with potential to rust.

I'm working on the walls and flower beds for the next couple of months, will be back in touch when it's track-laying time!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Purbeck,

Your post appears to be incomplete, but I think you are asking about suitable track materials which will not rust.

Peco mostly make their rails out of nickel silver. Although this will tarnish with a sort of yellowy-blackish appearance, it does not rust as such. A quick clean of the rail heads will ensure good electrical contact with loco wheels.

An added bonus of nickel silver is that once tarnished it gives a natural weathered look.

Hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry folks. It seems it was a glitch at my end which resulted in only seeing part of the original post. :oops:

Clearly, others gave replies before mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I startet a test in 2012 and placed flex track and points following manufacturers in my garden

Peco Code 83 and Peco Code 75

Roco Code 83

Tillig Code 83

Walthers Code 83

Shinohara Code 83 and Code 70

Piko Code 100

Only track:

Fleischmann Profi Code100

GT Code 83, Code 95 and Code 100

Atlas Code 83

After 3 years I examined how the state is.

Absolutely useless were:

Piko Code 100

Roco Code 83 points

Small problems but which could be prevented with care ( I have the tracks not touched three years !) occured with:

Shinohara Points

and the stainless steel GT track (but not the nickel silver track)

With Tillig the burnished profiles were a little harder to clean than the bare profiles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thomasl,

What, about the Peco Code 100, was "absolutely useless" after 3 years?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Careful Purbeck! Thomasl said that "Piko Code 100" was useless after 3 years, not "Peco".

Peco is British and Piko is German.

Regards, Riddles

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AHH!  I thought it was a spelling slip, never heard of Piko!   Sorry Thomasl.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had about 2m of track laid now for over a year, and finally finished preparing the ground for the next stage.   What's the best way to set up point motors?   The Peco PL-11 ones look simple enough, but are they waterproof?   Has this been covered elsewhere on the forum already?  Total beginner here, in case you were wondering!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Atlas code 100 is doing just fine after years out in the sun and extra UV we get here at a mile above sea level.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Purbeck, 

the PL10's and 11's aren't waterproof.

You can use PL10's mounted below the baseboard, and keep them in good condition with a covering of WD40 etc to keep the moisture out... 

You can also use the PL10's above board, and then put covers over them. They can be scenic and left there all the time, or just for protection, and removed before running. A microwave treacle sponge pot is a good size and shape... plus the contents are quite tasty too! :)

The PL11 didn't survive all that well outside. 

I believe many people use central locking actuators for point motors, but I've never used them so can't give recommendations/

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now