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doublecee

Points question

9 posts in this topic

Depends on your point motor. If your motor is latching then yes remove the spring. If it isn't latching then you need the spring to keep the rails in place.

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No pl 11 are none latching. Leave the spring in.

You can leave the spring even when they are latching, but it does mean the motor has to do a bit more work.

As you may have read elsewhere the spring will rust outside so dab a bit of grease on it.

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I know this is an old thread but my enquiry is to do with the Peco PL-11 side mounted point motor.

I recently bought 4 of these point motors, along with the rest of the Peco accessories (levers, lever module and cdu) for use on Baker Wood Bunker.

Stay with me :mad::mad::mad: - there thats better!

I am using them with Peco streamline points and have followed the instructions, to the letter, but still, I can only get 1 of the motors to actually move the point blades! Frustrated and angry doesnt begin to cover how I feel, having lashed out the thick end of £75 for all the bits and then they dont cut the mustard.

Can anyone offer any help? The motors are fitted to the points using the connecting bars and are pinned down securely. You can feel the movement inside the casing, but the bar just isnt moving the point bar. I took one apart and was disappointed to find a load of plastic componants which dont look at all tight enough to transfer the energy to the point bar. Ive tried adjusting the height the motor sits in relation the point, but this doesnt work either. I thought it might be due to low voltage output from the auxiliary ports on my Hornby Elite, but that doesnt seem to bother the one that does work..

Any help or advice would be very welcome, before the whole lot goes in the bin!!

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I have several PL 11 motors operating points in the shed and have not had any problems (yet).  Saying that l run them as DC and not DCC. The are powered from the 16volt feed of a very ageed Hornby controller using second hand Hornby switches and give a very pleaseing clunk when changed. The only problem was the Peco / Hornby wireing was differant colours. Do they work when not connected to the points? 

From the mind of an electrical idiot sounds like not enough ummph to make them work.

 

PS if you cant get them to work can you let me know when your bin day is!

Edited by jimbob
Update

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Last night I managed to get 2 out of 4 working reliably, so glued them in place (as per Peco instructions).

This morning I set about changing some of the wiring - I had 2 points linked on 1 switch previously - and managed to get 3 working reliably. The only problem, was the one that doesnt work properly now, was one of the 2 that worked perfectly last night :-o How frustrating is that! - it will motor from reverse to normal, but not normal to reverse... I am going to have the motor open again and see if there is any adjustment required, but Im not going to waste too much more time on it - it will just be forever faulty (like some of the points in my real signalbox!!)

When tested, my controller is pushing out just over 15v, so should be able to manage this job - although Peco technical bureau advise a minimum of 16v. If I find a more powerful transformer, I will give it a try.

Needless to say, I wouldnt recommend these motors to anyone - try Hornby or someone else first!! 

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Any chance you can post some pictures of your installation.  Some one may be able to spot something amiss. 

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I have dismantled the last motor and checked each piece for any defects or distortions. After adding a bit of packing under the crank end and easing the tie bar on the point, I re-assembled the motor and lo and behold, it works! I tried it a couple of times and it seems to work fine - I wonder if it will work tomorrow :D

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