ba14eagle

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ba14eagle last won the day on February 28

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  1. Tony The track problems have come about due to the plastic boards moving / expanding / contracting and the firm pinning down Ive used - if I had large radius curves that didnt need so much pinning, the problem would probably not exist - its a symptom of having tight radius curves unfortunately. As you can see from this video, the herbs, alpines and succulents, planted in the middle of the circuit, have gone berserk this year and require lots of cutting back, before the inner circuit is useable. Obviously, my impatience in wanting to see this area landscaped has caused me to overplant Ive also had some costly plant losses due to ants and slugs, in the lower borders - this has now been addressed!!
  2. Some glorious weather this week motivated me to do a little bit of running on the railway. In one of my recent posts I described some new locos which have joined the fleet over the closed season - 2 of the diesels had issues which needed overcoming and Im glad to say, I have done just that. 33056 went off to the repairman at my local model railway shop, in an attempt to get the pick ups / contacts sorted. Repairman said the loco was completely dead so loco was returned to me. I went back to basics and took out a couple of cotton buds and some white spirit, with which I completely cleaned the wheelbacks and treads - hey presto! the loco runs beautifully in a straight line and around corners! To be fair, I was to blame for the problems, having done the weathering on the loco and obviously not being careful enough where i sprayed paint and varnish A word of warning to all though - When Modelzone closed down, I bought a few bottles of "Rail-Zip" fluid, which is supposed to reduce corrosion on metal parts and improve conductivity - even through dirt. Well, ive used a fair bit of this stuff and ive ended up throwing it away as it doesnt do what it says on the tin (to coin a well known advertising slogan) but attracts more dirt and seems to inhibit conductivity. 56084 was causing me problems with its daft cam - coupling system and Im pleased to say I think ive fixed the problems I was having with that. I had tried just about every coupling system I employ and still didnt have any success with getting the mgr wagons to stay on the rails. The loco was destined for internet auction when I had one last try with some thin wire, looped between the buffers. By bringing this down a few millimetres below the buffer heads, allowing the wagon hook to travel right across the wire when negotiating corners, I seem to have solved the problem. I have left my heath-robinson attempt as it is at the moment, but maywell go back and refine the design and make it a bit more permanent at a later date. I have noticed that I have some broken track in places on the railway, which is no doubt caused by expansion / contraction in the recycled plastic sheeting trackbase (o to go back to a ground level rubbercrete trackbed!) This seems to be on corners and where the track is pinned down too tightly. Funnily though, rolling stock seems to negotiate these stretches of line better than in some other places, which, when you consider the chances of rail gauge going to pot, is quite extraordinary! If I do re-lay these bits, I think I will allow a little more slack in the pinning down and I will cut the sleeper webbing on the underside of the track.
  3. I managed a quick operating session on St Georges day, Sunday. The Hornby class 56 still frustrates, as it continues to pull the mgr's off the road, rather than along it. Its all down to Hornby's ridiculous cam coupling system - I had the same problem with the class 50's and coaching stock - and reading up, on line, it appears that Im not the only person who has found this. The class 50's were put right by using Hornby R8220 couplings and that is what I plan to do with the 56. Of course, my mgr's are tarted up railroad models, so Ive had to fit one with a nem pocket - I hope the glue is strong enough! As you will see in the video, I have started fixing some scouring pad foliage to the backscene. I hope to expand the backscene this Summer, but wont be using any more Peco sheets, as these havent faired well, despite being very well varnished.
  4. From the album Summer Hampton Railway locomotives

    Class 56, 56084, allocated to Toton depot. A weathered Hornby loco, fitted with a Howes dcc sound chip.

    © IMH2017

  5. As we are now well into the new year and the weather is improving, thoughts turned to returning outdoors to the gaden railway. A visit from my Sister and her Grandson, prompted me to spend a couple of days getting the railway running. Having cleaned up the track - including vacuuming up a lot of unstuck ballast - I set about checking each circuit for power. Needless to say, a number of the bondings, which I had done last year, had failed. Not only was this probably due to my poor soldering skills, but I think the wire (single strand copper) was too thick and so has just come adrift with movement in the rail. I replaced the failed bondings with new ones, formed with a thinner, more giving, wire which I found in the shed - I dont think this was necessarily electrical by design, but it does the job very well! I also needed to finish the bonding of the joints, which I hadnt got around to last year. Having just about completed that task, I dropped the soldering iron and it broke! I have also added Hornby dcc point springey wire things in all my points, to aid power delivery to switch rails, which seems to have improved running greatly. I have aquired quite a bit of rolling stock over the Winter months, so was looking forward to giving it a run. The motive power department has been bolstered by the arrival of a Hornby class 56, another Heljan class 33 and a Bachmann GWR 8700 Pannier tank ( steam!!). Yes, a steam loco has arrived - actually 3 have arrived but 2 are still waiting dcc chips - along with a fair bit of appropriate freight stock to go with them... The Hornby 56 is a great loco, with bags of pulling power. However, the silly cam coupling unit insists on pulling the leading mgr wagon off at every corner, so will not be used. Instead, I am fitting a wire bar across the buffers, so as to try and avoid this problem. The Heljan 33 has gone into works, as there is a problem with the pick ups - it runs great in a straight line, but very poorly on the curves - it may have to have a stay alive capacitor fitted, if the problems with the chassis cannot be overcome. The Pannier tank has been fitted with a basic chip and stay alive capacitor, which works really well, although it does fill up the cab space. This loco will be seen on both Summer Hampton and Bunker Wood Bunker, as will the other 2 tank engines. The steam era rolling stock is slowly being fitted with 10g tyre weights, to assist in smooth running and keeping it on the road! Hopefully, the link below will take you to the first YouTube video of the year. And yes, my Great Nephew loved the trains!
  6. From the album Summer Hampton Railway locomotives

    Class 33/0, 33056 "The Burma Star", allocated to Stewarts Lane depot. A Heljan model, renumbered and re-named. Fitted with a Howes DCC sound chip. My 3rd 33/0 and it completes the set of 3 locos, named after the death of Lord Louis Mountbatten.

    © IMH71

  7. I have dismantled the last motor and checked each piece for any defects or distortions. After adding a bit of packing under the crank end and easing the tie bar on the point, I re-assembled the motor and lo and behold, it works! I tried it a couple of times and it seems to work fine - I wonder if it will work tomorrow
  8. Last night I managed to get 2 out of 4 working reliably, so glued them in place (as per Peco instructions). This morning I set about changing some of the wiring - I had 2 points linked on 1 switch previously - and managed to get 3 working reliably. The only problem, was the one that doesnt work properly now, was one of the 2 that worked perfectly last night How frustrating is that! - it will motor from reverse to normal, but not normal to reverse... I am going to have the motor open again and see if there is any adjustment required, but Im not going to waste too much more time on it - it will just be forever faulty (like some of the points in my real signalbox!!) When tested, my controller is pushing out just over 15v, so should be able to manage this job - although Peco technical bureau advise a minimum of 16v. If I find a more powerful transformer, I will give it a try. Needless to say, I wouldnt recommend these motors to anyone - try Hornby or someone else first!!
  9. I know this is an old thread but my enquiry is to do with the Peco PL-11 side mounted point motor. I recently bought 4 of these point motors, along with the rest of the Peco accessories (levers, lever module and cdu) for use on Baker Wood Bunker. Stay with me - there thats better! I am using them with Peco streamline points and have followed the instructions, to the letter, but still, I can only get 1 of the motors to actually move the point blades! Frustrated and angry doesnt begin to cover how I feel, having lashed out the thick end of £75 for all the bits and then they dont cut the mustard. Can anyone offer any help? The motors are fitted to the points using the connecting bars and are pinned down securely. You can feel the movement inside the casing, but the bar just isnt moving the point bar. I took one apart and was disappointed to find a load of plastic componants which dont look at all tight enough to transfer the energy to the point bar. Ive tried adjusting the height the motor sits in relation the point, but this doesnt work either. I thought it might be due to low voltage output from the auxiliary ports on my Hornby Elite, but that doesnt seem to bother the one that does work.. Any help or advice would be very welcome, before the whole lot goes in the bin!!
  10. Can Kadee's lose their ability to react to a magnet? I bought a Peco magnet de-coupler, but it has no effect on my Kadees - I should have listened to the proprietor of my local model shop, who told me they were rubbish before I bought it. I could buy the Kadee uncoupling ramps, but I think they look a bit intrusive. Can anyone else help with ideas on good magnets to use?
  11. A couple of update videos to show progress. Im now in the process of putting some edging board along the front of the layout and thinking about some method of point operation, other than my fingertips! The problem with the point operation is the trackwork sits on 2" of insulation board. I am going to try Peco side on point motors, fixed securely to some pieces of wood, which will need to be firmly anchored in the foam.
  12. From the album Summer Hampton Railway locomotives

    Class 47/4, 47406 "RailRiders", allocated to Gateshead Depot. Bachmann model, fitted with a Howes dcc sound chip.

    © IMH2017

  13. From the album Summer Hampton Railway locomotives

    Class 47/0, 47079 "G.J.Churchward", allocated to Bristol Bath Road Depot. Bachmann model, fitted with a South West Digital dcc sound chip.

    © IMH2017

  14. From the album Summer Hampton Railway locomotives

    Class 128 DMPV, W55992, allocated to Reading Depot. Heljan model, fitted with a Howes dcc sound chip. A really "growlie" 1st generation dmmu sound!

    © IMH2017

  15. From the album Summer Hampton Railway locomotives

    Class 58, 58037, allocated to Toton Depot. Heljan model, fitted with a Howes dcc sound chip.

    © IMH2017