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shaung75 last won the day on February 27

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About shaung75

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  1. Once the DCC++ is set up I'll be using servos too for the points. Was thinking about putting them inside sealed Scaledale buildings with a load of that desiccated silicone stuff in as well - until I get my hands on a model though I'm not sure how feasible that'll be. On a side note, I now have a genuine reason for running steam engines on the layout - the Flying Scotsman decided to pay Leasingham Moor a visit today! Granted, this isn't actually the Poacher line, but it's the closest railway to us so I'll take it as a win anyway
  2. Thanks Stese I saw a video on Youtube of somebody else fixing the issue by doing the same thing. I did think about trying this but the problem I have with that is you're relying on the switch rail to carry the power over to the frog, and even though they've only been outside for a year, one of the springs on my points has gone "soft" and isn't pushing the switch rails firmly enough against the stock rail to make a reliable electrical contact. One possible solution that I have found is here which suggests filing down the rails slightly where they converge at the frog and then filling in with resin. All fun and games this hobby!
  3. Hi Stese In my best 2 minute photoshop talents I've put a simple version of the layout below. It's wired for DCC so that all of the layout is live at any moment, but powered by DC for now. The short happens the moment the loco hits the frog on the points - without fail for the wider wheel older stock, intermittent for newer. Applying a bit of clear laquer on the frog sorts it out for the running session, but the moment the track rubber comes out it happens again.
  4. Glad to hear your son managed to get home Tony. I'll be honest and say I wasn't aware that Hornby did clockwork trains either until I saw it on ebay, and as it was a Thomas Clockwork Train it was one of those "shut up and take my money" moments! Now he can play out on the tracks without me having to get all the electrics out and dealing with him short circuiting the layout every 30 seconds. Once the layout reaches the back of the shed it'll be approx 10.5m to the tip of the loop - I haven't done any exact measurements but I suspect it'll equate to about 20-23m total running length. I'm sticking with DC for now and will be looking to move onto DCC once the shed section is complete - have a look in the DCC Control section of the forum as I'm looking at using a DIY controller called DCC++. The way the layout is configured at the moment doesn't require any reversing loop modules or DPDT switches at the minute - if you follow the tracks round on the diagram you'll see that it doesn't actually create a reversing loop even though at first glance it appears to. I now have a back to back gauge which appears to sort out the issue of derailment over the points (thanks guys, I wasn't aware of these), now I just have to find a solution to the problem of short-circuiting as some locos go over the points when the whole layout is live. I can live with it at the moment as I'm only running on the outer loop with the inner isolated, but this will be a problem when going to DCC. I have 9 weeks off coming up over August and September and my plan is to get the track finished to a complete loop within the shed so that I can start to landscape the areas around the track as the whole garden is starting to look a bit of a state now and I just want it sorting!
  5. Managed to lay the track this evening and to save getting the controller out I gave the Clockwork Thomas a run for his money
  6. Hi Tony, hope your son's feeling better soon It's the crossover that's the issue rather than the wiring and polarities - certain locos cause a short when they go over the crossing, (some every time, some intermittently and some not at all) so it's really frustrating. I will eventually be going to DCC, but at the moment the layout isn't big enough really to run more than one train at a time at the minute so can't warrant the upgrade just yet. Once the loop is complete down to the shed (see here for phase 2) I'll be making the change. For now though I managed to bag an ebay bargain with an old Hornby clockwork Thomas so I don't have to set up power everytime the boy wants to have a play
  7. Today has been a good day on the Poacher Line - I've given up for the time being on trying to find out what's causing the short circuits on the crossing and have decided to focus on the building side of things instead. The planning officer (aka, "the wife") has allowed me to use one of my precious day's off to tinker with the layout, so this afternoon has been spent making use of the posts that have been in the ground for the last year and have finally made a start extending the layout down to the shed. Don't get me wrong, it's only and additional 7 meters of baseboard down, bitumen painted and felted, but it has given me the enthusiasm again to crack on with it. Now that the new boards are fitted, it became obvious that the old junction needed pulling up and relaying This is as far as I got before it began to get dark Hopefully I'll be allowed some more time over the weekend to get the junction finished
  8. That's interesting. Thanks Rossi, I'll go back and have another read through. Although mine is only a Hornby Railroad (so the dangly bit doesn't dangle as much), I have been focusing on what the wheels are fouling to cause the problem, not the other bits surrounding the wheels... Worth looking into
  9. Only the Dean Single is tri-ang, the main culprit is a modern hornby class 47 - I couldn't see any evidence of either riding up onto the checkrail. Odd, shall keep investigating....
  10. Thanks for the reply chaps, I'll invest in a gauge and see what the results are. To be honest I'm not 100% convinced it would be that as the Dean Single has the old Tri-ang style wheels on the front bogey where the wheels can freely move apart. Still, I'm not ruling anything out so worth a shot! Managed to get a decent amount of running with the boy today by using the inner loop (avoiding the crossover) and snipping the bits that I'd soldered in to join the rails (eliminating shorts). All in all a good afternoon - faith restored in the hobby!
  11. Hello all, this is a desperate callout for help as I'm about ready to give up on this bloody hobby of ours. Can anyone here see anything obviously wrong with this crossover (specifically the rout from top right to bottom left). My class 47 and tri-ang Dean Single constantly catch the frog so going over it at anything other than a crawl results in a derailment, and Ben's 0-6-0 Thomas tends to cause a short (but doesn't derail). At first I thought it could have been down to the curve leading into the crossing as it appeared to have a minor kink, but I replace this section with a Hornby Radius 4 set track piece and the issue still remains. Getting on my hands and knees to get a good look at it while manually pushing the loco over the crossing towards me, it's almost as if it's front-right wheel wants to pull to the right and join the other track but just catches the frog instead. Any help appreciated as I was out with Ben for a good 5 hours yesterday on the layout and wasn't once able to just sit back and enjoy the trains with him. Feeling a bit deflated to be honest...
  12. Popped into my local model shop today with the intention of just buying some loco oil (which turned out to be a waste of time, but that's another thread...) and ended up walking away with an old Tri-ang Dean Single and 4472 from their "bargain bin". Suggest you don't have the sound on too loud for this one, it could do with a service
  13. This weekend has seen a new addition to the garden railway - a £40 new Class 47 from ebay. I'm amazed at the difference with these modern locos, ran as smooth as a nut straight from the box with no track cleaning required! All my other locos need the track as shiny as anything One day I'll remember which side of the tracks the trains run in the uk...
  14. Hi Steve The motor shield is used to boost the DCC logic signal to the correct voltage - the arduino is powered through USB at only 5v, whereas the shield can be run at whatever you like. Those blue terminals on the left of the motor shield are DC in, Output A and Output B - the signal to the main running track goes through output A and the programming track goes through output B. Have a watch of the following, hope this helps: Shaun