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  1. 2 likes
    I've been fettling loco's recently, stripping down motors, adding pickups to wheels and installing DCC chips. Working with my mate John we have turned several locos from the 1970s and 1980s into good runners again. I'd upgraded a couple of Lima Class 66 previously, including a whole motor replacement, but they still improved their running after a fettle. The improvement was big enough that to my surprise, the Freightliner 66 could pull my intermodal train. Knowing that the real thing passes my house around 6 o'clock each evening, I hatched a plan to film them both runnnig at the same time.
  2. 1 like
    I'm no expert on the construction of batteries themselves, however from what I know leisure batteries use thicker heavier plates that are of a more active compound. Starters use more surface area to give that higher short period current. Generally I'd agree with Roddy's assessment of the two main types of batteries as to their use. Going via an inverter to control a model railway is an electrically expensive way of doing it as there are losses, converting 12v to 230v and back down again. However using a Car battery doesn't give you 100% of a mains supplied system first they are charged at up to 15.6 volts, although a floating voltage of about 13.5 V for long term charging is required. Although called 12V power supplies, oo gauge controllers actually put out up to 16v, so if you want to run flat out you'll find your top speed limited unless you use more electronics to up the battery voltage. I could quite easily see a battery supplied, solar charged, model railway system, working quite well. Say allowing for losses you need 3 Amps 12v supplied to the controller an extreme 10 hour running session ( single loco) would use 30Amp hours A 150 amp hour leisure battery has about 120AH available to use so you'd only use 25% of its capacity. How often you could do that would depend on your charging capacity, the more full discharges of any type of battery the shorter its life. Jimbob, Putting a jig saw on a 300w inverter is pushing it somewhat, most jigsaws are 500W or more you could easily blow your inverter. Personally I always would over rate inverters by at least 50%. For the boat below I will eventually get a 5kW continuously rated inverter to run a 3kW kettle!!! I have about 600w of nominally 12v solar panels, charging 24, 2v batteries of 500AH. This will power my 27ft motor boat for about 4 to 5 hours on the Norfolk Broads. However If I'm going that far I'll wind up the 4kW generator, batteries are expensive so I don't want too many cycles taken out of them. Short trips the solar panels can look after..
  3. 1 like
    I used an inverter to give me 240 volts in a catering trailer that I had. No good for fridges or anything that heated. The leisure battery is the one to have because it will take long low dischsrges, where a car battery is designed more to give a powerful discharge to fire the starter motor. I'm sure that Q will be along to give us the technical whys and wherefores surrounding batteries.
  4. 1 like
    l have used a battery, inverter, solar panel set up for the past two years without a problem. I am an idiot at electrics so this is a simple setup. A car battery will work but l opted for a leisure/caravan type battery. I do not run my controllers directly off the battery. The battery is connected to a 300 watt inverter that gives me a 240 volt power supply and that then powers controllers etc. The battery is trickle charged by a cheap solar panel. The panel is in the shed window and does get direct sunshine for a couple of hours a day. I have never had to charge the battery as yet. I should point out that l do not use lighting in the shed (yet) but l think it would power them ok. I have used a mains electic saw in short bursts and although a bit slow worked ok but would'nt trust in the long term. Whole set up in UK cost about £100 when new much cheaper than getting the shed wired to the mains.
  5. 1 like
    i've considered this as a supply for a battery supported power unit for my garden railway... but i've not done anything about that yet.
  6. 1 like
    The board you called chipboard is in the UK known as Stirling board, or Oriented Strand Board and comes in several varieties. Versions OSB1 and OSB2 are for dry conditions only, OSB 3 and 4 can take humidity. For a shed I would use OSB 3, however none are waterproof, on any of them edges definately need painting, especially outside. I do hope those wooden bearers supporting the shed are not directly on the ground, if they are, then even if they are treated wood there is a good chance you'll get rot in ten years or so... I bought my first 20ft shed and assembled it myself, I found the quality poor poor and realised i could do better myself so the other 36ft ish I've built myself. Decorator caulk while flexible is probably not flexible enough for a shed as the wood will age, shrink and move. Although OSB is more dimensionally stable than conventional wood. I used silicon sealant, much more flexible, however it doesn't take paint very well. In the UK we can get wooden, metal or plastic sheds, metal has the problem of internal condensation due to our humid rainy climate. Plastic sheds are more expensive. Good luck with getting your shed sorted, time to go out to mine....
  7. 1 like
    Hi All Well I have made a start on all those Ideas that you get during the winter nights. All main line points upgraded to express points. Branch line extention with the addition of a small villiage. The other thing I wanted to do, was one of those drivers eye view videos. Having purchased a tiny camera to blue tack to the front of one of my RC locos, all high teck stuff here. I recorded a test run today in the rain, that will be a bank holiday then. I edited the resulting video and watched the finished product. This is the first time I have seen the railway close up, you can see everything. I have now added about 200 more jobs to the to do list! I have put the video on youtube under Goddard Junction Railway. Im having a problem uploading pics to my posts at the moment but will keep trying.
  8. 1 like
    Making progress with the switches with help of my friend Manu.
  9. 1 like
    In the past there run a line thru Gorizia called the Transalpine Railway, Ferrovia Transalpina in Italian. The place in front of the station in Gorizia is called Piazza Transalpina since that time. Maybe "Ferrovia Transalpina" would be a nice name. The German name was "Neue Alpenbahn" and was a line from the industrial aera of Bohemia to the seaport of Trieste. Today it runs from Czechia thru Austria and Slovenia to Italy. Very International indeed.
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    I found it quite easily at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFqKggA4WqY but I seem to be the only person to have viewed it so far. Perhaps there was a delay in it becoming watchable. Well done David.
  11. 1 like
    Who needs a 5 year old, just use the web dahhh! Several sites on how to take things apart, hope theres one on how to put them back together! And yes l did take out the screws that they say do not take out!!
  12. 1 like
    Here's a couple of recent additions to Kirkfield MPD. The Duchess was purchased second hand as LMS 6230 Duchess of Buccleuch. I renumbered, renamed and changed the LMS lettering to a BR emblem, added a few details and it is now 46251 City of Nottingham. The 9f is a Hornby Railroad item which I have converted to a rebuilt Crosti boilered version using a Golden Arrow Models kit. Both locos have had the weathering treatment using mainly airbrush but also powders.