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  2. Hello traingeekboy and all. You have probably already somewhere told, but tell me nevertheless on which place of the planet your layout is to be built. Yes the problem with the money and the trains you want to have, everyone knows this. And I fear that my budget is already indecent. Fortunately, my better half does not know exactly ... 😉 But I can hardly resist the Italian trains. Whether Treno Azzurro, ETR 200 or Frecciarossa 1000, all solve such a "must have" reflex with me. I seriously consider whether I'm design part of my high-speed route for left-hand traffic because of the Italians. The bridges for this part are built in the Direttissima style anyway. Also because I consider these bridges to be very suitable for a construction method made of light-weight bricks, similar to the method already shown here from other layouts with viaducts. But I wait for my curves... Thomas
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  4. I'm starting this thread now, right at the very start of my thinking about the layout, so that you lot can mither me if there are no updates for a long time; I need motivation! This is a two stage DCC project. Stage 1 is a high/medium level (lower and upper gardens) end to end layout with a possible loop around a tree, and stage 2 is to connect stage 1 to a new garage extension which will contain the indoor "hub" of the layout (fiddle yards, station, depot, etc). Motive power is all in place and is BR blue 03, 08, 20, 24, 25, 26, 27, 31, 33, 37, 40, 44, 45, 46, 47, 50, 55, and 56, with HST and DMUs. Photos and plans to follow! Jake
  5. oh, the plants I could grow in the garden with 26 inches of rain per year. *sigh* We just got a little afternoon rain storm. It's never enough to do more than hit the ground and evaporate.
  6. Well roddy you were dead right about Q's fascinating comments. About 40 + years ago I was an apprentice auto electrical engineer and learnt about lead acid battery construction. Absolutely right about surface area for short term, high amp demand, about 200+ amps for a starter. Just shows how technology has moved on there were no leisure batteries or sealed gel batteries then. I didn't realize the different makeup of leisure batteries, makes sense though. As I am only running some LED lighting and some signals I was thinking that a modest sized deep cycle battery of around 15 to 20 amp hrs would suffice. I had best measure the current drain and work it out properly though. Dave
  7. I'm no expert on the construction of batteries themselves, however from what I know leisure batteries use thicker heavier plates that are of a more active compound. Starters use more surface area to give that higher short period current. Generally I'd agree with Roddy's assessment of the two main types of batteries as to their use. Going via an inverter to control a model railway is an electrically expensive way of doing it as there are losses, converting 12v to 230v and back down again. However using a Car battery doesn't give you 100% of a mains supplied system first they are charged at up to 15.6 volts, although a floating voltage of about 13.5 V for long term charging is required. Although called 12V power supplies, oo gauge controllers actually put out up to 16v, so if you want to run flat out you'll find your top speed limited unless you use more electronics to up the battery voltage. I could quite easily see a battery supplied, solar charged, model railway system, working quite well. Say allowing for losses you need 3 Amps 12v supplied to the controller an extreme 10 hour running session ( single loco) would use 30Amp hours A 150 amp hour leisure battery has about 120AH available to use so you'd only use 25% of its capacity. How often you could do that would depend on your charging capacity, the more full discharges of any type of battery the shorter its life. Jimbob, Putting a jig saw on a 300w inverter is pushing it somewhat, most jigsaws are 500W or more you could easily blow your inverter. Personally I always would over rate inverters by at least 50%. For the boat below I will eventually get a 5kW continuously rated inverter to run a 3kW kettle!!! I have about 600w of nominally 12v solar panels, charging 24, 2v batteries of 500AH. This will power my 27ft motor boat for about 4 to 5 hours on the Norfolk Broads. However If I'm going that far I'll wind up the 4kW generator, batteries are expensive so I don't want too many cycles taken out of them. Short trips the solar panels can look after..
  8. Not all parts of the UK are that wet, I'm lucky enough to live somewhere near the east coast, where we only get about 26 inches of rain. Wood rot is still significant!!
  9. I used an inverter to give me 240 volts in a catering trailer that I had. No good for fridges or anything that heated. The leisure battery is the one to have because it will take long low dischsrges, where a car battery is designed more to give a powerful discharge to fire the starter motor. I'm sure that Q will be along to give us the technical whys and wherefores surrounding batteries.
  10. Hi guys Well this is encouraging. Jimbob I think I will follow your lead and invest in a bigger battery. All my electrics are 12volts or 5volts and dcc track power comes from inside the house, so I don't need an inverter. I do fancy one though. I will tidy up my (embarrassing) wiring and post some photos. Dave.
  11. l have used a battery, inverter, solar panel set up for the past two years without a problem. I am an idiot at electrics so this is a simple setup. A car battery will work but l opted for a leisure/caravan type battery. I do not run my controllers directly off the battery. The battery is connected to a 300 watt inverter that gives me a 240 volt power supply and that then powers controllers etc. The battery is trickle charged by a cheap solar panel. The panel is in the shed window and does get direct sunshine for a couple of hours a day. I have never had to charge the battery as yet. I should point out that l do not use lighting in the shed (yet) but l think it would power them ok. I have used a mains electic saw in short bursts and although a bit slow worked ok but would'nt trust in the long term. Whole set up in UK cost about £100 when new much cheaper than getting the shed wired to the mains.
  12. Hi Griff, we still use chip board over here, there has being a big swing to water proof MBF board especially in kitchen cupboards and other furniture., here there is more steel garden sheds than wooden sheds, the first one I have see is the lady across the road she had a wooden shed built, is the wooden sheds a lot cooler that steel.. I liked the first video, is that what you are looking at doing with h cross over on the main line, Germany has some new Electric locos, not a bad looking loco, I just bought a loco I missed out in buying when it was out, very had to come by, an Aussie diesel loco DL class Australian National uses them to double head with the Indian Pacific NR class to help get over the Blue mountains, 3000HP Here is a video of the Indian being shunted and got ready to depart, at the end you will see the DL class loco shunting with the NR and hooking up to the train, that train has 28plus coaches, why the train is split up and need two platforms, that is what I plan to model those platforms in stage thee of my station module complex, won't be happening till next year and funds as well, all up 9 modules with the suburban platform extension.. I have 18 of those coaches but can make up 28 using other coaches from the Sothern Aurora same coaches from Lima, can't wait but in the mean time I am building the fount set and will have 8 platforms, can still pull off the same scene in the vide link, working on the first approach module car port I can switch the first loco over to the by pass loop., temporary main line. With this forum if you leave the post without finishing it actually saves what you have typed the only forum that does it , pure awesome, did you notice that Griff when you lost connection with the net I love this forum Mick has sure put a lot of work into the upgrade and has paid off.. Looking forward to seeing your track plan, going to be awesome. Tony from down under keeping on moving ahead. ..
  13. i've considered this as a supply for a battery supported power unit for my garden railway... but i've not done anything about that yet.
  14. There are three runners laid under the frame. They may likely rot over time. I could also get some jacks and prop it up so as to replace them with something else later. It's hard to explain to people how dry it is here generally. Sure we get rain, but it's along the lines of 17-22 inches per year. It really is nothing compared to other places such as Britain where you get double or more per year. If you go in the mountains there are cactus here too. I expect that my shed will last at least 15 years as warrantied. I figure that is enough time to build a new reailway! Still waiting for the installers to come finish the job correctly now. Grrr...
  15. Strange expeirence. I had wirtten a long reponse and then my connection to Britain seemed to go sour. NO problem with US sites, but no forum. Then I got access again after a few minutes, but had lost my post. Tonight I come on here and my post re-appears when I try to respond. There must be some kind of edit buffer that held all my writing. So, here is my old post. Thomas, It's always so hard to decide. The freedom of the garden railway does lend a hand toward running the things you like nomatter what time period. I just found a set of three Grey FS coaches for only 9.99. Shipping was a bit over the top, but with parts from other damaged trains I will liekly be aiming more for the brown and grey schemes on passenger trains. So then there are these videos by this guy who shoots them in my two favorite stations. Well, Milan station is really cool too. But for modelling I prefer a smaller station that I may actually be able to finish making. Here is a Taurus in OBB scheme in Italy. And here is a Cargo AM842 And a lot of different things including a Rola in this one. So the temptation to add even a couple modern trains becomes a little overpowering. Yet the cost of newer models tends to lead me back to the toy like and less expensive older models. SO many trains so little time and money!
  16. Ok, what is SBR? womderong how I cam source similar over here.
  17. Hi all. I am experimenting with low power timed led lighting sets at around £4 each from eBay. These use the micro leds and a small battery control box. When activated they stay on for 6 hrs and off for 18. They give a bright light for their size, but batteries only last a few weeks. I thought about solar power, prompted by the outbreak of summer. I had a 12v 1.7Ah lead acid battery so I needed a solar battery charger and a charge regulator. My first solar panel was a 1.5watt panel from Maplins. This didn't keep up with the load of three light sets coming on for 6hrs. I got two 3watt panels and wired them all in parallel giving a possible output of 7.5watts. So far this has kept up with demand even under overcast conditions. Has anyone played with this type of thing? I am not sure if I'm using the correct components. Any thoughts guys Dave
  18. Have found a quicker way to strip the bus wires mid stream and solder the feeder wires to the bus wires with the module up side down and stapling the wires to under the base board, much faster, I use pieces of red and blue wire for the colour codes as you will see in the pics. I don't use tape anymore, heat shrink is the way to go last longer, I cut a small cut so I can thread the feeder wire through and them the same with the bus wire, solder the feeder wire and push the heat shrink over making sure the feeder wire is in the middle as in th e second pic, touch the heat shrink with the soldering iron, all done. Now all the three station modules are ready to run the first test loco through, was planning to work out side in the curved radius ramp up to the back of the layout, rain coming in today and all week so I will have to work on the approach modules car port end in stead. Pic three, the wires hanging down are blocks 6 and 7 connects to the front corner approach module, the speaker plug , blocks 1 and 2 will connect up to, I will have to use a mirror on the floor to see where the right bus wires plug up to, true plug and ply, Pic 5 I tinted the wires to make a better connection and it is goo to keep those short pieces of wire,, I used them to tie the bus wires to staples, making it easy to undo when lifting out the lift out section when setting up Sydney Central, wont be to the end of the year or earth next year I will start on stage three, have to do stage two first with the suburban extension first, three sections at least no points involved.. All goes well will complete the whole layout by Christmas, still aiming to run the first test loco by next weekend . Tony from down under keeping on moving ahead.
  19. Hi Shaun, nice video, is that the stemie that was bought back from Australia from after the Flying Scot's tour 1988, running number rings a bell, what has happened to 4472 does she still run or sadly off the rails in a museum, I have a version of her with the dual tenders and both are powered, took a lot of work and help to get running, she sure can pull now 11 plus coaches, with ease tackling my train clubs spiral, if you go back a few pages in my post I did a video.. Do you look through other video clips that are listed from yours, there is a bloke that built a motorised fiddle yard pure awesome, no money spared there, I an looking into a vertical staging yard what we call them, saves money on points. Have you sorted out your shorting on the cross over, I am talking to a friend today will ask him, I will take Stese's idea as well, the servo's what voltage are you going to go for, If I go that way will have to be 12 volt, they are a bit dearer that a pound., going to a hobby shop today will check the prices. Wet week this week slow me down for working outside on the layout, will have to work on the approach modules car port end three there, the only problem with outdoor layouts. Tony from down under , keeping on moving ahead. .
  20. Once the DCC++ is set up I'll be using servos too for the points. Was thinking about putting them inside sealed Scaledale buildings with a load of that desiccated silicone stuff in as well - until I get my hands on a model though I'm not sure how feasible that'll be. On a side note, I now have a genuine reason for running steam engines on the layout - the Flying Scotsman decided to pay Leasingham Moor a visit today! Granted, this isn't actually the Poacher line, but it's the closest railway to us so I'll take it as a win anyway
  21. I'm using Servos on the points indoors they cost about £1 each, waterproof servos appear to be about £6 for outdoors. With servos you don't need the spring, not that that affects me as all the points will be handmade Copperclad with power switching done by a switch attached to the servo. That DCC++ site is interesting, my previous plan had been to use a pc as the signal generator, with a current source fed from it. That circuit using an Arduino would be much more compact .
  22. I've just been reviewing ballast glue threads on this site and elsewhere, I've also reviewed a few of the specifications of the various glues. I previously said I prefer latex glues indoors and now I'm thinking i agree with previous comments that SBR is the way to go. SBR which is a latex glue for outdoors. It is weatherproof except for not being light resistant. I'm thinking any under the ballast would be hidden from the sun and therefore that would not not be affected. SBR has the advantage also of not being hugely expensive it's about £18 for 5 ltr.
  23. Hi Rossi, like the first pic with the shell of the loco lifted up on stands and the crane assisting the lift great scene., pic of the station is great too. I saw on Netflix a doco on Cannery Islands, called Island Of The Future, a lot on renewable Energy , did they finish the Hydro Electricity power station, great idea lots of wind turbines puts us to shame, our government doesn't like them, what is your main language, Spanish a lot of especially the younger ones speak English, very interesting, you get a lot tourist as well worth a visit,, on the where to go holiday wish list.. It is cold here I may get a chance to cut the bus wires ready for tomorrow, warming up nicely. Where did you buy the motor shaft from I want to buy a longer shaft, scratch building a measuring loco using the motor and bogies from a F/7 class loco form my test loco , shaft is too short, was thinking of cutting it exstending it with a round plastic tubing. Tony from down under keeping on moving ahead.
  24. I may just do a light ballast, painting the decking gray, have seen some modellers use sand paper, I may go that way, with my layout being a module out door layout moving the modules and curved section ballast wont last,, rather put the money into track and points, just bought a second hand Aussie diesel loco I missed out in buying when it was out , will double head with my Indian Pacific train Tony from down under.
  25. Hi Shaun and Stese, you can't delete a pic off your post, I have tried it , it will have to be up to Mick to do that , that is awesome Stese what you have said any chance of drawing a wiring diagram, what I was thinking was Shaun's problem was , that will fi it I am looking into using hose car locking door motors to use as point motors they are waterproof, IanR had a thread on the topic and same with Mick, cheaper than a good point motor. Tony from cold down under.
  26. Are you planning on putting point motors on? if so, using a switch, you can liven the point blade by soldering a wire to the outside of the blade (rather than in the flangeway). This wire will connect to the centre pole of the point motor switch. the two 'feed' poles on the switch would then be fed by the appropriate polarity feed, depending on the point. This will stop you relying on the springs for power feed, and also prevent the shorting, with the insulating fish plates.
  27. Thanks Stese I saw a video on Youtube of somebody else fixing the issue by doing the same thing. I did think about trying this but the problem I have with that is you're relying on the switch rail to carry the power over to the frog, and even though they've only been outside for a year, one of the springs on my points has gone "soft" and isn't pushing the switch rails firmly enough against the stock rail to make a reliable electrical contact. One possible solution that I have found is here which suggests filing down the rails slightly where they converge at the frog and then filling in with resin. All fun and games this hobby!
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